Draft1 of Project Covac

It is been declassified by The Internet Guild and members of the Archiver realm. It is copyrighted by nobody and is released under public domain and all Dishes are copyrighted by their respectful owners. Covac stans for Communications Online-Network Virtual Amplification Communications This file is been made public by the Secret Archivers and Infowarriors. This information is also by an autistic person who has been around technology since he was very little.

Table of contents: I. The type of Equipment, supplies, and other things that are needed in order to build the system II. The software and systems in plan for the routing and network operations III. Ways to build communities and selected peers for the system IV. Protocols listing V. Bandwidth Sharing and Bandwidth status meters VI. Open infrastructure Systems VII. White Paper VIII. End Pages

I. A. This is one way to build the Biquad Antenna and Covac communication system(Source martybugs.net) B. Double Biquad Antenna C. Modifying Conifer Antennas for Wireless Networking D. Antenna Comparison Testing E. Review of WarDrivingWorld DIY Biquad Kit F. The parts and routers needed for Covac G. The software needed (All open source) to help construct the system

The type of Equipment, supplies, and other things that are needed in order to build the system Chapter I.
My plans are to build Biquad antennas since it creates a wifi style satellite, each and every satellite doesn't have to meet the guidelines of this handbook but the point of this is to make long range wifi extenders to meet people in rural areas and for long range transmissions, not to mention higher quality transmissions in close range areas. It is not illegal to use a Biquad Antenna and having a backup Internet communications system is also not illegal and buying the parts for this is as well not illegal and is recommended during natural disasters and cut off communications points. This specific chapter will explain what equipment, supplies, and other things that need to be bought or made in order to set up the system. These are the parts and ingredients you will need for the system unit that connects to other peers.

This is one way to build the Biquad Antenna and Covac communication system(Source martybugs.net) – A.
Use the following bits and pieces: 1x 123x123mm square section of blank PCB 1 x 50mm length of 1/2" copper pipe 1 x short length of CNT-400 or LMR-400 low loss coax (~300mm long) 1 x 250mm of 2.5mm2 copper wire (approx 1.5mm diameter) 1 x N connector 1x Dish network Satellite Dish Note: that you don't have to use blank PCB for the reflector. You can use any material that's electrically conductive, can be electrically connected to the coax braid, and will reflect microwaves (ie, any metal plate will do fine). I've also heard of people using CDROM as the reflector, as the foil on it will certainly reflect microwaves. Background of technician involved: I've done quite a bit of experimentation and testing with various home made dipoles for 24dBi Conifer dishes, and have managed to increase the performance of the dish.

Trevor Marshall has a webpage with information about using a biquad as a feed on a Primestar satellite dish, with very good results. I decided to try using a biquad as a feed on a 24dBi Conifer dish, to see if I could improve the performance of it of the dish. Note that the photos on Trevor Marshall's webpage do not clearly show the construction of the biquad particularly the way in which the quad is attached to the coax. Numerous people (including myself) have constructed biquads incorrectly, based on his photos, and found that they perform very poorly. Use the photos of my biquad below, and refer to the websites listed in the references section at the bottom of this page for more information on the correct construction of the biquad. Reflector: Cut a square piece of blank printed circuit board, 123x123mm. Note that Trevor Marshall (Go to the Trevor Marshall section to read his work) recommends a size of 123x123mm if using the biquad as a stand-alone antenna, while 110x110 is optimal if using it as a feed for a large dish. He also recommends attaching some lips to two sides of the reflector, to reduce radiation from the rear lobes. Use some steel wool to remove any tarnish and polish it up. Cleaning the copper in this way will make it easier to solder.

blank printed circuit board Cut a 50mm section of copper pipe, and file both ends smooth. Using some sandpaper and/or some files, polish up the copper pipe (including the inside of the copper pipe, to ensure a good connection with the coax braid).

the dimensions of the copper pipe (Enlarged to show texture and for larger screens) Cut a notch into one end of the copper pipe, removing approx 2mm from half the circumference.

A short section of copper pipe, notched at one end (Enlarged to show texture and for larger screens) Drill a hole in the centre of the blank PCB so that the copper pipe is a tight fit in the hole. I found a reamer to be very useful for enlarging the hole to the correct size.

making a hole in the center (Enlarged to show texture and for larger screens) Insert the copper pipe into the hole, with the notched end on the copper side of the blank PCB. The copper pipe should be protruding approx 16mm through the hole, measured on the copper side of the PCB.

Insert the copper pipe into the reflector (Enlarged to show texture and for larger screens) Solder the copper pipe to the PCB, to ensure a good physical and electrical connection. The next Image is on the next page.

solder the copper pipe to the PCB (Enlarged to show texture and for larger screens) Quite a bit of heat is needed, due to the thickness of the copper pipe, and an electrical soldering iron probably won't be able to deliver sufficent heat. I found a small gas torch works quite well. Making the Element: The element is made from a length of copper wire, bent into the appropriate shape. Note that the length of each "side" should be as close to 30.5mm as possible (measured from the centre of the copper wire to the centre of the copper wire), which is a quarter of a wavelength at 2.4GHz

the shape and dimensions of the element (Enlarged to show texture and for larger screens) I had some offcuts of electrical power cable lying around, and found that 2.5mm2 power cable had a diameter of approx 1.6mm - a little bigger than the 1.2mm that Trevor Marshall specifies, but didn't think it would make a significant difference to the performance of the biquad.

recycling power cable offcuts (Enlarged to show texture and for larger screens) Remove the insulation, measure and cut a 244mm length the copper wire, and straighten it as best as you can.

straighten the wire (Enlarged to show texture and for larger screens) Measure the mid-point of the wire, and make a 90 degree bend. The bend should be quite sharp and pronounced.

90 degree bend (Enlarged to show texture and for larger screens) Measure the midpoints of each half, and make two more 90 degree bends in the wire, so that it looks like that shown in the photo below.

another two bends (Enlarged to show texture and for larger screens) Once again, measure the midpoints of each section, and make some more 90 degree bends, resulting in what is shown below.

bend it some more... (Enlarged to show texture and for larger screens) Do the same to the other side, resulting in the biquad shape.

make it symetrical... (Enlarged to show texture and for larger screens) Clean up all your bends, and ensure each side of the element is as straight as possible, and as close to 30.5mm as possible. Note that you may need to trim a small amount off each end of the wire to achieve this. Assembly: The element must now be attached to the reflector. Note that only the two "ends" of the copper wire are to be attached to the copper pipe - the centre of the copper wire must not touch the copper pipe (hence the notch which was cut into the end of the copper pipe. The copper wire element should be approximately 15mm away from the reflector. Testing antenna performance while varying the spacing between the copper wire element and the rear reflector indicates that a spacing of approx 15mm provides the lowest SWR (test results available http://forum.wirelessnederland.nl/viewtopic.php?t=918&postorder=asc&start=45 but is not in English).

the element soldered onto the copper pipe (Enlarged to show texture and for larger screens) Strip approx 30mm of the outer sheath from the end of the coax.

strip the outer sheath (Enlarged to show texture and for larger screens) Fold the braid back over the outer sheath, and trim the centre conductor, so that about 4mm is protruding.

fold the braid back, trim the centre conductor (Enlarged to show texture and for larger screens) Insert the braid into the copper pipe, so that the end of the centre conductor lines up with the extreme end of the copper pipe, and solder the centre of the element to it, ensuring the centre of the element is not in contact with the copper pipe. Refer to some of the additional photos below for details.

solder the centre conductor to the element (Enlarged to show texture and for larger screens)

another view (Enlarged to show texture and for larger screens) Note that the feed between the rear reflector and the biquad element needs to be shielded. Using coax to feed the biquad element directly, and positioning the coax inside the copper tube achieves this. Use of bare conductors as a feed between the reflector and biquad element results in a radiating feed (such as the one in the image on the next page), which will have a detrimental effect on the biquad's performance. I used a coax crimper to crimp the end of the copper pipe onto the coax. This ensures that the coax would not move inside the copper pipe.

(Enlarged to show texture and for larger screens)

the copper pipe crimped onto the coax (Enlarged to show texture and for larger screens)

the completed biquad (Enlarged to show texture and for larger screens) Now terminate the other end of the coax with an N connector. If desired, you can add spacers at each end of the element, to ensure the element doesn't move in relation to the reflector. Refer to the double biquad section of this document for more details on making

spacers to support the element. If you intend to mount the biquad outside, I'd recommend you place it into a weather-proof enclosure, to prevent corrosion, and to prevent water ingress into the coax. Numerous people have used small tuppaware containers successfully. This can be achieved by drilling a hole in one side of the container, and pass the coax tail through the hole, leaving the biquad itself inside the container. Seal up the hole for the coax with some silicone, and your biquad should be protected against the elements.

another view of the completed biquad (Enlarged to show texture and for larger screens) Testing: Some very rough initial testing using the biquad as a feed on a 24dBi Conifer dish looks very promising, with the signal strength being at least as as good as my home made (You can go to the Modifying Conifer Antennas for Wireless Networking section for this) Conifer dipole (I was holding the biquad at approximately the focal point of the dish, and hadn't even removed the Conifer dipole). I also managed to get a marginal link to a 180 degree waveguide on an access point 10km away, using only the biquad by itself, connected to a 30mW RoamAbout wireless card. Some more detailed testing (you can go to the Antenna Comparison Testing section for this) with multiple antennas, including the biquad shown above, indicates the biquad has a gain of approx 11-

12dBi. A friend has access to some antenna test equipment, and performed some tests on the biquad featured on this page. The azimuth plot (ie, radiation pattern) of the biquad is shown below, and shows a 3dB beamwidth of about 50 degrees.

azimuth plot of the biquad Variations: Variations A number of people have suggested the spacing between the element and the rear reflector should be a

1/4 wavelength (ie, 30.5mm) instead of 15mm. However, test results (such as http://forum.wirelessnederland.nl/viewtopic.php?t=918&postorder=asc&start=45 warning not English!) indicate the SWR of the biquad is minimised when the spacing is about 15-17mm. Increasing the spacing to 30.5mm increases the SWR significantly, thus reducing the efficiency of the biquad. For a higher-gain variation of the biquad that's virtually just as easy to build, have a look at the Double Biquad Antenna Section in this document. Usage: When using a biquad to establish a link to another wireless device, you should ensure the polarisation of the biquad is the same as the antenna you are connecting to. Similarily, if establishing a link with two biquads, ensure they are both oriented for the same polarisation. Failing to match the polarisation will result in significant signal loss.

vertically polarised horizontally polarised (Enlarged to show texture and for larger screens) Changing the polarisation is just a matter of rotating the entire biquad antenna by 90 degrees. The biquad antenna is not particularly directional, but has a fairly wide beamwidth. The 3dB beamwidth for a biquad (without side lips) is typically about 40-50 degrees, thus making it ideal for any applications where you want fairly wide coverage. The relatively wide beamwidth also makes a biquad very suitable for war-driving and stumbling, allowing you to pick up signals without having to align the antenna directly with the signal source. While a directional antenna, such as a Conifer dish (See the Modifying Conifer Antennas for Wireless Networking Section in this document) (3dB beamwidth of a 24dBi Conifer dish is approx 7 degrees), is better suited for point-to-point links, the narrow beamwidth of a Conifer dish requires more precision when aligning the antennas (the narrower the beamwidth, the less susceptible it will be to interferance from other sources). An antenna with a wider beamwidth, such as a biquad, doesn't require the same precision for alignment, thus making it easier to get a link working.

From the coordinator of this document I recommend you buy a Kid instead of doing work to get all the parts especially if those parts are rare, but if these Kits ever get banned from being sold and don't show up on any kind of market then buy all the parts separately in cases of censorship or control) Kits: If you're one of those people who may not have all the tools required for building a biquad antenna from scratch, or you don't want to shop around for all the parts required, you can buy a DIY kit containing all components from WarDrivingWorld (http://wardrivingworld.com/ It's an ebay store). In November 2006, WarDrivingWorld sent me one of their DIY biquad kits to review. The kit contains all the pre-cut and pre-drilled parts required to build a biquad antenna. For more infomation on this kit, including antenna comparision test results, read my Review of the WarDrivingWorld DIY Biquad Kit (See section Review of WarDrivingWorld DIY Biquad Kit). Online References (Which are not included in the document): http://www.saunalahti.fi/elepal/antenna4.html http://reseaucitoyen.be/?BiQuad http://www.geocities.com/lincomatic/homebrewant.html#biquad

Double Biquad Antenna – B.
This page contains details on building a double biquad antenna with approx 13dBi gain. Background on Same Technician: Having experimented with a number of biquad antennas (construction details on last section), I have found them to be relatively easy to construct, reliable, and good performers, with about 11 dBi gain. A number of websites showed a variation of the biquad, with the reflector being double the size, and with the element having twice as many sections. I decided to make a double biquad, to see how the gain compared to that of a biquad. Construction: I made a double biquad using exactly the same construction techniques as described on the last section, except the rear reflector is 110x220mm, and the element is double the size.

double biquad (Enlarged to show texture and for larger screens) Note that the element wires do not touch where they cross over, but are separated with a gap of approx 1-2mm. To provide some more robustness, and to ensure the element doesn't move, I added some spaces at each end of the element. The spacers are made from a small section cut from a hollow reticulation riser, and attached to the reflector and element using a small wire tie. Measure and cut the spacers to be 14.5mm long, as this should result in the element being the correct 15mm from the reflector.

parts required for the spacers (Enlarged to show texture and for larger screens) Drill two small holes in the reflector, in line with each end of the element. The holes must be large enough to allow the wire tie to pass through them.

two holes in the reflector for the cable tie (Enlarged to show texture and for larger screens) The spacers are attached by passing the wire tie through one of the holes in the reflector, through the tube, looped around the element, and then passed through the tube again, and through the other hole in the reflector.

spacer installed (Enlarged to show texture and for larger screens) The spacers will ensure the posititioning of the element relative to the reflector will not change, and also means the antenna is less likely to be damaged while in transit or while being handled.

detail of spacer (Enlarged to show texture and for larger screens)

completed double biquad (Enlarged to show texture and for larger screens) Testing: To determine the difference in gain between a biquad and the double biquad, some tests were performed, with the signal, noise and SNR recorded. antenna SNR signal (dB) (dBm) biquad 43 double 45 biquad -58 -56 noise (dBm) -101 -101

The test results indicate that the gain of the double biquad is approx 2dBi higher than that of the biquad, which is a significant improvement (as 3dBi is a doubling of signal). As the biquad has a gain of 11-12dBi, this means the double biquad has a gain of 13-14dBi, so it's a pretty good performer for something that's relatively easy to build. These results are similar to those obtained by other people who have made double biquads.

References: last section Photos of a Double BiQuad Double Double Quad

Modifying Conifer Antennas for Wireless Networking – C.
This page details a method for constructing a new dipole for a Conifer dish, resulting in improved performance over the more common dipole modification. Conifer (ex Galaxy) Antennas: The antennas we're using are made by Conifer (now known by the name of their parent company, Andrew Corporation ref. www.andrew.com), and were used in Australia by a pay-tv company called Galaxy. Galaxy went out of business several years ago, so there are a lot of un-used Conifer antennas on people's roofs in Australia. The most common Conifer antenna used by Galaxy is the 18dBi grid, while the 24dBi grid is a little less common. Note that both the 18dBi and 24dBi grids use an identical feedhorn, so this page is applicable for both.

18dBi and 24dBi ex-Galaxy antennas made by Conifer, with a 30cm ruler (bottom right) for scale (Enlarged to show texture and for larger screens)

However, the Conifer antennas used by Galaxy were designed to operate at a different frequency than wireless networking, and have a down-convertor integrated in the feedhorn. They need to be modified before they can be used for 802.11b wireless networking, and this page describes one way to modify them, achieving very good results.

an 18dBi Conifer (as installed by Galaxy) (Enlarged to show texture and for larger screens) Background: Numerous people have posted guides on modifying Conifer antennas (ex-Galaxy) for use with wireless networking. Most of these guides show how to disasemble the feedhorn, cut off the end of the downconverter PCB, and solder coax onto the PCB dipole.

the most common mod - coax soldered to the cut pcb (Enlarged to show texture and for larger screens) Of all the sites out there, ChrisK's page on his Galaxy modification (http://www.narx.net/~chrisk/WaFreeNet/GalaxyMod/) was the most interesting, as he rebuilt the dipole from scratch, ensuring the measurements of the dipole and balun were as accurate as possible for operation at 2.4GHz. ChrisK based his dipole on a design shown on this page(http://www.saunalahti.fi/~elepal/antenna1.html), and Marcus and myself believed we could construct similar or better dipoles, and decided to use a brass plate for the dipole (instead of the thin brass tube which ChrisK has used). To ensure the correct balun impedance of 50 ohms, the ratio of the inner diameter of the copper tube to the outer diameter of the brass rod should be approx 2.3. The important dimensions are: • length of the dipole is 1/2 wavelength • length of the balun is 1/4 wavelength • ratio of inner diameter of copper tube to outer diameter of brass rod The 802.11b standard uses 2.412MHz to 2.484MHz frequency range, so at the centre of that frequency range, 1/2 wavelength is 61mm, and 1/4 wavelength is 30.5mm. Below is a cut-away diagram showing the parts used in the construction of the dipole.

diagram showing components fitted together (Enlarged to show texture and for larger screens) Parts Required: The materials we used to perform this modification: • • • • • • Conifer (ex Galaxy) antenna low-loss coax (such as LMR-400 or CNT-400) 50mm of copper pipe (~10mm internal diameter) 61mm of flat brass bar (~12mm wide by ~0.5mm thick) 30.5mm of brass pipe (~4-4.5mm outer diameter) female n-connector

the raw materials: copper pipe, brass tube, brass plate (Enlarged to show texture and for larger screens) Most Bunnings and Mitre10 hardware stores should stock these materials - ask at the trade counter if you can't find them. Alternatively, hobby stores should certainly stock these materials. The brass plate I used is 12mm wide, and 0.6mm thick, while the copper pipe has an internal diameter of 10.8mm, and the brass tube is labelled as "3/16 round brass - stock no 129" with an external diameter of 4.5mm. This means the ratio of the inner diameter of the copper to the outer diameter of the brass is 10.8/4.5=2.4, which is close enough to the required ratio of 2.3. Antenna Disassembly: Start by disassembling your Conifer antenna. Remove the 2 or 4 bolts which attach the mounting bracket and the feedhorn to the dish. Remove the reflector from end of the feedhorn by removing the small screw in the centre of it.

remove the screw holding the reflector onto the feedhorn (Enlarged to show texture and for larger screens) Remove the nose cone from the feedhorn. Some people have reported being able to remove the nose cone after cracking the glue with a hammer and screwdriver.

I normally use a hacksaw to cut along the join to remove the nose cone from the feedhorn. Other people have reported carefully squeezing the end of the feedhorn in a vice will crack the glue, allowing the nose cone to be removed.

cutting the nose cone (Enlarged to show texture and for larger screens)

the feedhorn with the nose cone removed (Enlarged to show texture and for larger screens) Remove the nut and washer from the base of the feedhorn, and remove the down-convertor from the feedhorn.

remove the nut & washer at the base of the feedhorn (Enlarged to show texture and for larger screens)

the down-convertor (Enlarged to show texture and for larger screens)

A hammer may be necessary to persuade the down-convertor to separate from the feedhorn. Separate the metal feedhorn base from the plastic body of the feedhorn, and remove the sticky glue residue using mineral turps.

remove the sticky glue residue (Enlarged to show texture and for larger screens) You'll have to drill out the feedhorn base to approx 10-11mm in order to be able to fit the coax through it. Secure the feedhorn base in a bench vice, and carefully enlarge the hole until you can fit your chosen coax through it.

drilling out the hole in the base (Enlarged to show texture and for larger screens) I found a 10mm masonary drill bit at very slow speed works quite well. Dipole Construction: Start by cutting off a 50mm length of copper pipe, and cut some slots in one end, making the length of the slots as close as possible to 30.5mm.

cutting the slots (Enlarged to show texture and for larger screens) Clean up the slots with a small needle file (for the car buffs, a points file works quite well too). Clean up both ends of the pipe with a file, and use some sandpaper to clean up the external surface of the copper pipe. Also cleanup the inside of the copper pipe (the cut end, as you'll need to solder it, and the other end to ensure a good connection to the coax braid.

cleaning up the copper pipe (Enlarged to show texture and for larger screens) I clean up the pipe by holding it in the chuck of my drill (holding the drill on the workbench), and then using sandpaper and a file on the rotating pipe.

the completed copper pipe with slots (Enlarged to show texture and for larger screens) Cut off 30.5mm of the small brass tube to make the balun, and clean up the ends with a file. Using a small drill bit, drill a hole near one end of the brass tube. This hole will make it easier to solder the coax core into brass tube.

the hole in the balun (Enlarged to show texture and for larger screens) For the dipole, we used some brass plate, approx 12mm wide by 61mm long. The length of the brass plate isn't too critical just yet, as long as it's at least 61mm long. It'll be trimmed to the correct length once the parts have been soldered together. Mark the centre of the brass plate, as this is where you'll have to solder the small brass pipe.

mark the centre (Enlarged to show texture and for larger screens) Then hold the copper pipe against the brass plate (with the slotted end against the brass plate), and mark it's location.

mark the location of the copper pipe (Enlarged to show texture and for larger screens) Then hold the copper pipe against the brass plate, and mark it's location

mark the line to cut (Enlarged to show texture and for larger screens) Now cut the brass plate along the blue line, and clean up the cut ends with a file. I find a junior hacksaw works quite well for this.

the brass plate after being cut (Enlarged to show texture and for larger screens) Clean up the cut edges, and remove the tarnish with some sandpaper.

the polished brass plate (Enlarged to show texture and for larger screens) We've used both RG-213 and CNT-400 coax for these modifications, and they require slightly different approaches to the coax core. Note that CNT-400 or LMR-400 is recommended, rather than RG-213, due to the lower impedance.

Strip approx 30mm of the black outer sheath off the coax.

RG-213 coax with the outer sheath stripped off (Enlarged to show texture and for larger screens) Fold the braid back over the remaining outer sheath.

the braid folded back (Enlarged to show texture and for larger screens) Strip off the central insulation, and if using coax with a stranded core (ie, RG-213), double each strand of the core over, and tighten up the bends with a pair of pliers.

the core folded over (Enlarged to show texture and for larger screens) Fit the brass tube over the coax core, with the hole previously drilled being located closest to the coax. Solder the brass tube to the coax core, using the hole to supply solder onto the join.

the brass tube soldered onto the coax core (Enlarged to show texture and for larger screens) Push the copper pipe over the folded-back braid on the coax, until the brass tube protrudes past the end of the copper pipe by at least a few millimetres. Note that you may need to un-braid the coax braid, to as it is a pretty tight fit.

the copper pushed onto the coax (Enlarged to show texture and for larger screens) Tin the two pieces of the brass plate where they need to be soldered to the brass tube and the copper pipe.

the tinned brass plate Tin the end of the brass tube and the end of the copper pipe with some solder. Solder the brass tube onto the previously marked centre point on the larger of the two brass plate halves.

the brass tube soldered to one half of the dipole (Enlarged to show texture and for larger screens) Now slide the copper pipe down against the brass plate, and solder it to the brass plate, ensuring the two slots are aligned against the long sides of the brass plate.

the copper pipe soldered to one half of the dipole (Enlarged to show texture and for larger screens) Solder the other half of the brass plate to the copper pipe, ensuring there's an air gap of approximately 1mm between the two brass plate sections.

the assembled dipole (Enlarged to show texture and for larger screens) Measure the overall length of the brass plate, and trim the length to make it 61mm long. This is the dipole, and its length should be as close to 1/2 wavelength as possible.

Using the original dipole as a template, measure, mark and drill the the holes in each end of the dipole. These holes are used to locate and hold the dipole in the feedhorn. If you've got access to a coax crimper, use it to crimp the copper pipe onto the coax braid, to ensure a very firm connection, and trim the excess braid which is still protruding past the end of the copper pipe.

two holes drilled in the dipole, (Enlarged to show texture and for larger screens) and the copper crimped onto the coax Reassembly: The dipole can then be installed into the feedhorn. Use some silocone or hot-melt glue on the ends of the dipole, to ensure it won't become dislogded.

the dipole installed into the feedhorn, (Enlarged to show texture and for larger screens) and fixed into place with hot-melt glue Glue the feedhorn into the metal base, using a high-strength glue, such as 24hr Araldite.

the feedhorn glued into the base with Araldite (Enlarged to show texture and for larger screens) Glue the nose cone onto the end of the feedhorn. Re-assemble the antenna, and use silicone or hot-melt glue to seal up the back of the feedhorn (where the coax enters the feedhorn).

seal the base with silicone (Enlarged to show texture and for larger screens) Terminate the other end of your coax with a female N connector.

a female N connector (Enlarged to show texture and for larger screens) To minimise the stress on the coax where it exits the rear of the feedhorn, use a cable tie to firmly attach it to the antenna mounting bracket, as shown in the photo below. The two U-bolts provide sufficient clearance for the coax between the mast and the bracket, and you

can use the existing holes in the bracket.

coax cable-tied to the bracket The cable tie ensures the coax will not move inside the feedhorn. This is particularly important when using a fairly stiff coax, such as CNT-400. Failure to properly secure the coax in this way can result in the coax moving while you mount the antenna on a mast, and this can lead to broken dipoles. You're now ready to test it! Note that most people using Conifer antennas for wireless networking have them horizontally polarised - that is, they are rotated 90 degrees compared to the way Galaxy mounted them (ie, long axis of the grid is vertical for wireless networking, instead of horizontal).

Note, however, that the polarisation you should use will depend on the polarisation of the antenna you are connecting to. For example, a waveguide is horizontally polarised, while a collinear omni is vertically polarised Testing: We've modified a number of Conifer feedhorns, and have done some testing in a controlled environment, to determine which dipole modification achieves the best results.
The testing indicates that this dipole provides at least 3dB better signal strength than the more common Galaxy modification (ie, soldering coax onto the cut-off downconvertor PCB). Details of the testing procedure and the results are available here (http://martybugs.net/wireless/conifertest.cgi) and here (http://martybugs.net/wireless/conifertest2.cgi). These test results have been verified by other people's test results too. Recently, a fellow WAFreenet member replaced the pcb dipole in his 18dBi Galaxy dish with a dipole I constructed using the method described above, and saw an increase in SNR of approx 4-5 dB.

(Enlarged to show texture and for larger screens)

18dBi modified Conifer mounted for horizontal polarisation References: http://www.narx.net/~chrisk/WaFreeNet/GalaxyMod/ http://www.leemingwireless.net/modules.php?name=Content&pa=showpage&pid=1 http://www.mrx.com.au/wireless/ConfierModifications.htm http://www.ashtec.dyndns.org/ashtec/mods/index.html http://martybugs.net/wireless/conifertest.cgi http://martybugs.net/wireless/conifertest2.cgi Credits: Photos by Martin, graphics by Martin. [email protected]

Antenna Comparison Testing – D.
This page details the testing method and results when testing some downpipe waveguides, a collinear, some biquads, a cantenna, and a modified Conifer dish. Background of Same Technician: Over the past several months, I'd constructed a number of antennas, including some biquads, an 8element collinear omni, and a cantenna, and Marcus had recently constructed some 8-slot 180-degree waveguide antennas using cheap downpipe. We wanted to test the waveguides, and compare the performance of the various antennas. By testing all the antennas in a single session, using identical configurations in the same location, allows us to easily compare the performance of the various antennas, as there are minimal factors which would be affecting the results. Test Equipment: We used two laptops, one at either end of our wireless link. The specs for the laptop at the remote end: • • • • • • • • • • Pentium III 1GHz with 128Mb RAM Enterasys RoamAbout wireless card Windows 2000 SP2 Enterasys 7.44 drivers and client utility running on battery power for the duration of the tests Pentium III 700MHz with 256Mb RAM Enterasys RoamAbout wireless card Windows 2000 SP2 Enterasys 7.44 drivers and client utility running on battery power for the duration of the tests

The specs for the laptop at the antenna end:

Antennas We had the following antennas to test: • • • • • modified 24dBi Conifer (ex-Galaxy) dish cantenna two biquads two 8-slot 180-degree downpipe waveguides 8-element collinear omni antenna

The 24dBi Conifer dish has been modified by myself, with a custom-made copper and brass dipole. This is my reference antenna, and has been used in previous antenna testing sessions (referred to as Feedhorn #3 in the May 2002 Conifer Antenna Testing, and m3 in the September 2002 Conifer

Antenna Testing II). The cantenna was constructed by myself using a steel can with diameter of 100mm, and a length of 175mm, with a panel-mount N connector riveted into the appropriate location.

the panel-mount N connector

the feed inside the cantenna The first biquad (referred to as biquad1) was constructed in a similar way to those made by Trevor Marshall, and has two "lips" on the sides of the reflector. This biquad had approximately 2m of CNT400 coax attached to it. The other biquad (referred to as biquad2), is the one featured on my Biquad Antenna Construction page. A short length of CNT-400 coax is attached to this biquad.

biquad1

biquad2 Note that biquad1 has not been built optimally, as it is not correctly impedance matched (due to the use of the wire stakes to mount the biquad to the reflector). Biquad2 has been constructed with the coax extending through the reflector, encased in the copper pipe for additional strength. The collinear was constructed using 8 elements of CNT-400 coax, as per the details at wireless.gumph.org, with the dimensions appropriately adjusted to suit the velocity factor of CNT-400 coax.

the collinear nearly complete It has been mounted inside a length of 25mm electrical conduit, to provide some physical strength, and to weather-proof it.

the completed collinear Marcus constructed the two 8-slot 180-degree waveguides using readily available downpipe. The first is based on Trevor Marshall's design (referred to as the TM waveguide), while the second is based on Rob Clark's design (referred to as the RC waveguide).

the two completed waveguides (RC waveguide on the left, TM waveguide on the right) Test Setup: We placed one laptop on the parcel shelf of a car which we parked approximately 200m down the road. No external antenna was connected to this laptop - we were relying on the internal antenna in the RoamAbout card.

the remote laptop is in the red car (circled), approx 200m distant, with the top of a waveguide shown in the foreground Each antenna was connected to the wireless card in the other laptop using a 2 metre length of RG213 coax (terminated with a male N connector at one end, and a female N connector at the other end), and an appropriate pigtail, with the wireless cards at both ends configured to operate in ad-hoc mode.

testing the waveguide

testing the collinear

testing the cantenna Testing Methodology: The "Link Test" mode in the Enterasys Client Utility was used to monitor the link strength, with each test configuration being monitored for a couple of minutes.

the Enterasys Client Utility displaying link statistics Once the reported link details had stabilised, the SNR, signal strength and noise level were recorded for both the local and remote ends of the link were recorded. All antennas were tested in both horizontal and vertically polarised orientations. For horizontal polarisation, the waveguides are vertical, the biquad is vertical, the collinear is

horizontal, the cantenna feed element is horizontal, and the Conifer dish is vertical. For vertical polarisation, all antennas were rotated 90 degrees. The waveguides were briefly tested on channels 1, 6 and 11, and as they performed best on channel 6, this channel was used for all subsequent testing of the waveguides and all other antennas. As we wanted to plot azimuth graphs for the two waveguides, we measured the signal, noise and SNR details after rotating the waveguides at 10 degree intervals.

testing the waveguides at different angles Signal readings at different rotation angles of the waveguides were only made with the waveguide horizontally polarised, as it is designed to operate in this orientation. Test Results & Calculations: The tables below show the recorded signal, noise and SNR values for both the local (ie, the laptop connected to the antenna) and remote (ie, the laptop in the car) ends of the connection.

To calculate the gain of each antenna, the remote signal readings were normalised, using the recorded results for the 24dBi Conifer dish. The remote signal readings provide an indication of the transmit performance of each antenna. Note that the gain of the Conifer dish has been conservatively estimated at 22dBi. The normalised results for each antenna are:

Azimuth plots of the transmit performance have been generated for each of the waveguides, showing the performance over 360 degrees. Note that testing was only performed over 180 degrees, but some quick tests indicated the results for the other 180 degrees were within 1 or 2 dB.

Refer to Marcus' page for more details on the waveguide test results, and additional azimuth plots. These azimuth plots almost exactly match the theoretical azimuth plots which Trevor Marshall shows on his webpage. Comments & Conclusions: By testing all the antennas in the same location, on the same day, using the same hardware at both ends, we've attempted to minimise any factors which may affect the results. When calculating the normalised gain of the antennas, we assumed the gain of the 24dBi Conifer was 22dBi. Our results generally agree with the antenna gains other people have reported. Claimed gains for the biquads are typically 10-12dBi, while we measured 8-12dBi. Interestingly enough, biquad1 measured 10-12dBi, while biquad2 measured 2dBi less when vertically polarised, despite having a stub (the mount between the reflector and the quad itself) which is impedance matched. I'd suggest these differences are due to the lips on biquad1, which would reduce the beamwidth of the antenna somewhat. Various people have reported gains for the 8-element collinear anywhere between 6-10dBi (6dBi for RG-213 construction, while my collinear uses CNT-400), while we measured 8-10dBi. Similarly, people have reported cantenna with gains varying from 10-14dBi, while my cantenna measured between 12 and 13dBi in these tests.

The theoretical gain of the TM waveguide is 15dBi (according to Trevor Marshall), while commercially available 8-slot 180-degree waveguides are marketed with gains between 14 and 16dBi. Our results show the gain of the TM waveguide being 14-17dBi, and the gain of the RC waveguide being 16-19dBi. The RC waveguide provides approximately 2dBi more gain than the TM waveguide, which is consistent with Rob Clark's testing. Note that the dimensions of the downpipe are slightly different than the aluminium tubing used by Trevor Marshall, but the slot spacing was not adjusted to compensate for this. However, when constructing the RC waveguide, the measurements were re-calculated to suit the downpipe dimensions, and was adjusted to have a air column length of 5 wavelengths (while the TM waveguide has an air column length of 4.75 wavelengths). We intend to perform some more testing with the waveguides, and I'll update this page with the results, when they are available. During our testing, we noticed that while the cantenna and the Conifer dish have a very narrow beamwidth (Conifer specs say 7 degrees), the biquad have a very wide beamwidth. With such a wide beamwidth, the biquad is extremely easy to aim, while antennas with a narrow bandwidth can be more difficult to aim.

Review of WarDrivingWorld DIY Biquad Kit – E.
Copied from martybugs.net page and did not change anything to make it more book professional Review of WarDrivingWorld DIY Biquad Kit author: Martin "mpot" Pot published: 11 November 2006 This review looks at a DIY biquad antenna kit from WarDrivingWorld.com, for making an 802.11b/g wireless networking antenna. The contents of the kit are reviewed, and comments are provided on the construction of the antenna. The completed antenna is then tested and compared with several other biquad antennas. Background Several years ago, I published detailed instructions on building a biquad antenna on my website. The biquad is relatively easy to build yourself, and offers very good performance for its size and complexity. A biquad typically has a gain of 11dBi, with approximately 40 degree beamwidth. It can be used as a standalone antenna, or it can be used as a feed on a larger dish. While many people have used my instructions to build their own biquad antennas, some people do not necessarily have the tools required to construct these antennas, or do not know where to source the components required. WarDrivingWorld.com is addressing this by selling complete DIY kits for biquad antennas. When I checked their eBay store, they were selling these DIY biquad kits, complete with a 1.5m pigtail of your choice, for US$22.95 plus US$5.50 postage and handling.

WarDrivingWorld sent me a kit to review, as they had previously asked if they could distribute a printout of my Biquad Antenna Construction page with their kits. The kit arrived in a USPS cardboard envelope with a US-based source address.

mail package There was no additional padding in the envelope, but due to the relatively thick cardboard construction, there is little chance of the kit getting damaged in the mail. Also included in the envelope was this rather cheesy sticker promoting the WarDrivingWorld website that sells these kits.

sticker and business card The sticker is cheaply made, and was folded over to fit into the envelope, and as a result, the lettering on the printed side stuck together. Despite attempting to separate it carefully, the text was damaged (the missing part of the last "d" of "WarDrivingWorld" is visible just to the left of the first "W" of "WarDrivingWorld"). I have no idea why the sticker has a photo of Arnie on it... Kit Contents The WarDrivingWorld kit comes complete with all the parts required to build a biquad antenna, and is neatly packaged in a sealed plastic bag.

bag containing the kit Contents of the bag are: • • • • pre-drilled copper PCB (123x123mm) female panel-mount N-connector with solder lug approx 350mm 2.5^mm copper wire short length of silver solder

Apparently these kits normally come with a 1.5m pigtail, but I did not receive a pigtail with my kit. Similarly, I did not receive any instructions, but apparently a printout of my Biquad Antenna Construction page is normally included with the kit (and is used with my permission).

contents of the kit

The length of silver solder provided with the kit is lead-free. Apparently silver solder is more conductive than tin/lead solder, due to its silver content, and produces joints which can be upto 5-10 times stronger than joints made with tin/lead solder. Silver solder also has a lower melting point than tin/lead solder, thus allowing it to be used with less heat than similar tin/lead solder. The copper PCB measures 123x123mm, and has a hole pre-drilled in the centre for the N-connector. The hole is not cleanly drilled - it has rough edges, and is not circular, and probably is a little larger than is necessary. However, the edges of the hole can be easily cleaned up with a round file in a minute or two. Construction The copper surface of the PCB was cleaned up with some steel wool. It is important to clean the copper surface around the hole in the centre of the PCB, to ensure a good electrical connection when the Nconnector is screwed into place. Also, aesthetically, a polished copper surface looks much nicer than an oxidised surface. However, the copper surface will oxidise again, and will not retain its polished appearance (unless it is sealed), but the oxidisation should have no impact on the performance of the antenna. As already mentioned, the burrs on the edges of the hole in the centre of the PCB were removed with a small round file. The copper wire was straightened, and then bent into the shape required for the biquad element, with each side being as close to 30.5mm as possible. (Refer to the Biquad Antenna Construction page for more details.)

biquad element The N-connector was inserted into the hole in the PCB, with the solder end on the copper side of the PCB, and the N-connector end on the blank side of the PCB. Note that I placed the washer with the solder lug on the copper side of the PCB too, and bent the solder lug up at a 90 degree angle, to allow it to be used as an attachment point for the element feed. To build the biquad element feed, a short length of copper wire was soldered into the centre post of the N-connector, and another was attached to the solder lug. Once attached, these two wires were measured and trimmed at approx 14.5mm away from the PCB copper surface (to ensure the biquad element would be 15mm away from the PCB). I cut two pieces of wood 14.5mm thick, and used these to support the biquad element while soldering it

to the feed on the N-connector.

soldering the biquad element The Biquad Antenna Construction page mentions the need for a shielded feed to the biquad element (ie, the section between the biquad element and the PCB reflector). However, the WarDrivingWorld kit only provides components for building a biquad with an unshielded feed. An unshielded feed will radiate, and this will have a detrimental impact on the antenna's performance. (Refer to the test results below for more details on performance.)

side view of element mounting detail showing the solder lug attachment on the right

element mounting detail The resulting biquad antenna is somewhat fragile, as the biquad element can easily be bent or knocked out of shape.

completed biquad antenna This can be rectified by using a plastic spacer between the edges of the biquad element and the PCB reflector, to securely hold the biquad element in place, and to make the antenna much more robust. I use plastic spacers, made out of a small section of reticulation riser, with a small cable tie through it.

detail of plastic spacer

Note that the spacers can be made from almost any non-metallic (microwave-transparent) material. If desired, hot-melt glue can be used to attach the spacers, but be aware that the hot-melt glue will get very soft if you mount your biquad in direct sunlight. Testing To test the effectiveness of the WarDrivingWorld biquad, I compared its performance with one of my martybugs biquad antennas, and with a martybugs double biquad antenna. Note that the martybugs biquad has a shielded feed, and has a slightly smaller PCB reflector (110x110mm, while the WarDrivingWorld biquad has a 123x123mm biquad). The smaller reflector is due to the fact that the martybugs biquad was originally built to be used as a feed on a dish. All antennas were tested by connecting them to an 30mW 802.11b Enterasys RoamAbout wireless PCMCIA card in a laptop, with NetStumbler 0.4.0 being used to monitor signal, noise and SNR. Firstly, all antennas were used to establish a connection to the 180 degree slotted waveguide mounted on my roof (a WAFreeNet AP called "SGNet"; which has a Minitar MNWAPB access point), from a distance of approx 50m. Test results for a client connection to SGNet: antenna martybugs biquad WarDrivingWorld biquad martybugs double biquad SNR signal noise SNR diff (dB) (dBm) (dBm) (dBm) 47 -54 -101 46 -55 -101 -1 51 -51 -102 +4

A similar test was performed by establishing a client connection to the 360 degree slotted waveguide on ArmadaleAP, another WAFreeNet access point, approx 300m away (which has an Orinoco RG1000 access point). Test results for a client connection to ArmadaleAP: antenna martybugs biquad WarDrivingWorld biquad martybugs double biquad SNR signal noise SNR diff (dB) (dBm) (dBm) (dBm) 26 -73 -99 25 -76 -101 -1 28 -74 -102 +2

The test results indicate that the gain of the WarDrivingWorld biquad is about 1dBi less than that of the martybugs biquad. This is due to the unshielded feed on the WarDrivingWorld biquad, while the martybugs biquad has a shielded feed. Note that the dB scale is logarithmic (where 3dBi is a doubling of signal strength), and 1dBi is approximately equivalent to 25% of the signal. Note that the martybugs biquad had a slightly smaller reflector (110x110mm instead of 123x123mm), so the difference in performance between the two biquads may be slightly more than 1dBi if a 123x123mm reflector were to be used on the martybugs biquad.

The gain of the double biquad has previously been measured as 2-3dBi higher than that of the martybugs biquad (3dBi is a doubling of signal strength), and these test results confirm this. Summary This kit provides all the components required to allow you to build a biquad antenna with minimal tools, and without having to source components from multiple sources. While the biquad has a bare radiating feed, this has a relatively small impact on the performance of the antenna (reducing the gain by about 1dBi down to approx 10dBi). The bare feed is also simplifies antenna construction significantly. This DIY biquad kit from WarDrivingWorld is also very good value. At the time of writing, the kits were being sold on eBay for US$22.95 + US$5.50 postage and handling, resulting in a total cost of approximately AUD$37. I priced each of the components individually (all prices are in $AUD): component blank PCB (150x150mm) female panel-mount N-connector 1 metre of 2.5mm^2 T&E power cable pigtail total cost $6.20 $5.00 $3.60 $25.00 $39.90

Note that 1 metre of 2.5mm^2 twin&earth power cable (the minimum length most stores will sell) will provide enough copper wire for at 6 biquad elements, but the above prices assume a user wants to construct a single biquad antenna. If the cost of 1 metre of cable is distributed across 6 biquad antennas, the total cost per antenna drops to AUD$36.90. This confirms that the WarDrivingWorld biquad kit is certainly very good value for money. It provides all the items required to build a biquad, and doesn't even require any cutting or drilling, as the PCB is pre-cut to the correct size, and is pre-drilled. The only tools required for constructing the WarDrivingWorld biquad are a pair of pliers (for bending and cutting the biquad element), and a soldering iron or gas torch to solder the element. In summary, it's a useful kit that is very good value for money, particularly for users who want to build a biquad with minimal effort. The robustness of the antenna can easily be improved by the user with some plastic spacers, and if required, the gain can be slightly increased by making a shielded feed (but this will require additional components that are not included in the kit).

The parts and routers needed for Covac – F.
This document only includes the satellite because it's the best system for covac and would be more covert then a cantenna because it looks almost like a ordinary dish satellite except for the biquad extension but would fool an average quick spies and surveillance crews just quickly checking for wifi boosters. Now we will move on to what you will need next to meet the guidelines of Covac Internet systems, the parts and routers needed for the Covac system. These are some of recommendations: I recommend wireless N because it's next generation wireless and a peer and peer wireless inferstructure will be super slow remotely but super fast locally but in the future I bet special hackers and technicians will surpass Wireless N and make Terabit type wireless that will begin to make Covac about as fast as DSL and Cable for every peer and transmission point. The one flaw with Wireless N is I have done some research and till now I have found no Wireless N routers to have detachable antennas so you may have to modify it but if there is one then I suggest you buy it Warning: I recommend you buy a wireless N router (Wireless G if failure to find all the guidelines) with these guidelines for sucessful Covac operations: 1. Detachable Antenna for Biquad Antenna or Cantenna assertion 2. Firmware is GPL Compatible and Open to being able to upload custom firmware 3. The firmware should be compatible with Official Covac modified firmware I have gathered information from Maria from Linksystem that these routers allow modification of gpl code, have detachable antennas but are Not Wirelss N routers because she claims no wireless N routers have detachable antennas yet. WRT54G version 1-5, 7 WRT54GC - but only one antenna can be detached WRT54GL version 1 WRT54GS version 1-6 WRT54GX version 1-2 WRT54G3G I Recommend these router systems: This wireless N lets you detach it's antenna source: http://www.babykgb.com/products/158/7/1/332306 Belkin Wireless Pre-N (F5D8230tt4) Router Features Include: # 800% greater coverage than standard 802.11g - Belkin Pre-N provides the industry's best wireless coverage, extending your range with improved reliability and fewer drops. # 600% greater speeds than standard 802.11g - Belkin Pre-N provides

the industry's fastest wireless connection for gaming, streaming video, Voice over IP, and moving large files efficiently and quickly between all the devices in your networked home. # Improved performance of standard 802.11g and 802.11b networking devices - Using a Belkin Pre-N Router or Card with an older 802.11g or 802.11b networking product increases wireless coverage up to 20%. # Improved resistance to wireless interference - Belkin Pre-N products sense potential interference and dynamically shift to the clearest wireless channel available. # Belkin Pre-N products do not drop to the lowest networking speed in a mixed-mode environment - If a standard 802.11g or 802.11b device is introduced into a Belkin Pre-N network. # The Belkin Pre-N product will not drop to the standard 802.11g or 802.11b speeds - Belkin Pre-N products will continue to transmit at a link rate of 108Mbps, a result competing products cannot achieve. # Advanced Security - Wi-Fi® Protected Access (WPA) support provides enhanced encryption protecting your wireless network. # Pop-up Blocker - 6 months of free pop-up, adware, and spyware stopper # Web Content/Parental Control Filter - Web Content/Parental Control Filter 6 months of free built-in parental Control/Web Content Filter provides over 50 fully configurable filters that allow you to block websites and images. Warning this router may not allow GPL Modifications to it's firmware so hacking the firmware may be only way to set up the Covac system and is not illegal but will void the warranty unless provided by a active service then hacking the router may be illegal in your area.
Zyxel NBG-415N Draft 802.11n Wireless Router, IEEE 802.11b/g Wireless Technology, 2 x 4dBi Dipole Antenna Non-detachable and 1 x 4dBi Dipole Antenna Detachable Antenna, 300Mbps Transmission Speed, 10Mbps Ethernet Full-duplex and 100Mbps Fast Ethernet Full-duplex Data Transfer Rate (NBG415N NBG 415N NBG-415N)�

Warning this router may not allow GPL Modifications to it's firmware so hacking the firmware may be only way to set up the Covac system and is not illegal but will void the warranty unless provided by a active service then hacking the router may be illegal in your area.
Zyxel NBG-415N Draft 802.11n Wireless Router, IEEE 802.11b/g Wireless Technology, 2 x 4dBi Dipole Antenna Non-detachable and 1 x 4dBi Dipole Antenna Detachable Antenna, 300Mbps Transmission Speed, 10Mbps Ethernet Full-duplex and 100Mbps Fast Ethernet Full-duplex Data Transfer Rate, 1 x RJ-45 10/100Base-TX Auto MDI/MDI-X WAN and 4 x RJ-45 10/100Base-TX Auto MDI/MDI-X LAN Interfaces/Ports, Twisted Pair Connectivity Media, 5 V DC Device Input Voltage. General Information

Manufacturer Manufacturer Part Number Product Line Product Name Marketing Information

Zyxel NBG-415N Routers NBG-415N Draft 802.11n Wireless Router

The ZyXEL's NBG-415N Draft 802.11n Wireless Router is the perfect solution for home users demanding cutting-edge, versatile networking devices. Taking advantage of Draft IEEE 802.11n technology, the NBG-415N can efficiently pinpoint client computers and select adequate methods to exchange radio signals. Coupled with Draft 802.11n clients, the NBG-415N can truly push wireless coverage to the limit. With the upcoming IEEE 802.11n technology, the NBG-415N can eliminatedead zones and extend coverage up to 4 times, while retaining the backwardcompatibility with all 802.11b/g devices. Features

• • • • • • • •

IEEE 802.11b/g Wireless Technology 2 x 4dBi Dipole Antenna Non-detachable and 1 x 4dBi Dipole Antenna Detachable Antenna 300Mbps Transmission Speed 10Mbps Ethernet Full-duplex and 100Mbps Fast Ethernet Full-duplex Data Transfer Rate� 1 x RJ-45 10/100Base-TX Auto MDI/MDI-X WAN and 4 x RJ-45 10/100Base-TX Auto MDI/MDI-X LAN Interfaces/Ports Twisted Pair Connectivity Media 5 V DC Device Input Voltage WPA and WPA2 Wireless Security��

Specifications Wireless Specifications Wireless Technology IEEE 802.11b/g Antenna 2 x 4dBi Dipole Antenna Non-detachable 1 x 4dBi Dipole Antenna Detachable Frequency Band/Bandwidth 2.4 GHz IEEE 802.11b/g ISM Band Transmission Speed 300Mbps Transmission Speed Details 300Mbps 54Mbps Auto-fallback IEEE 802.11g 6Mbps IEEE 802.11g 11Mbps Auto-fallback IEEE 802.11b 1Mbps IEEE 802.11b Wireless Security�� WPA WPA2 Interfaces/Ports Interfaces/Ports 1 x RJ-45 10/100Base-TX Auto MDI/MDI-X WAN 4 x RJ-45 10/100Base-TX Auto MDI/MDI-X LAN Media & Performance Connectivity Media Twisted Pair Data Transfer Rate� 10Mbps Ethernet Full-duplex 100Mbps Fast Ethernet Full-duplex Management & Protocols Management�� StreamEngine for QoS DHCP Server/Client Embedded Web GUI Security SPI Firewall DMZ VPN pass-through Power Description Input Voltage 5 V DC Device Physical Characteristics Dimensions 1.3" Height x 5.91" Width x 7.48" Depth Weight 14.53 oz

Source: http://salestores.com/zyxelnbg.html

D-Link DIR-655 model 86285E Systems D-Link Xtreme N Gigabit Router DIR-655 Wireless Router, IEEE 802.11b/g Wireless Technology, 3 x Detachable Antenna, 2.4 GHz IEEE 802.11b/g ISM Band Frequency Band/Bandwidth, 10Mbps Ethernet, 100Mbps Fast Ethernet and 1Gbps Gigabit Ethernet Data Transfer Rate, 54MbpsTransmission Speed, 54Mbps Auto-fallback IEEE 802.11g (DIR 655 DIR655 862-85E 862 85E)

D-Link DIR-655 model 86285E Systems D-Link Xtreme N Gigabit Router DIR-655 Wireless Router, IEEE 802.11b/g Wireless Technology, 3 x Detachable Antenna, 2.4 GHz IEEE 802.11b/g ISM Band Frequency Band/Bandwidth,� 10Mbps Ethernet, 100Mbps Fast Ethernet and 1Gbps Gigabit Ethernet Data Transfer Rate, 54MbpsTransmission Speed, 54Mbps Auto-fallback IEEE 802.11g, 1Mbps IEEE 802.11b, 4 x RJ-45 LAN Interfaces/Ports.�� General Information Manufacturer Manufacturer Part Number Product Line Product Name Marketing Information D-Link DIR-655 Routers DIR-655 model 86285E Systems D-Link Xtreme N Gigabit Router DIR-655 Wireless Router

The Xtreme N DIR-655 Gigabit Router is IEEE 802.11n (draft) compliant device that delivers 14x faster speeds and 6x faster range than IEEE 802.11g while staying backward compatible with IEEE 802.11g and IEEE 802.11b devices. Connect the Xtreme N DIR-655 Gigabit Router to a cable or DSL modem and provide high-speed internet access to multiple computers/ game consoles, and media players. Create a secure wireless network to share photos, files, music, videos, printers and network storage. Features

• • • • • • • • • •

IEEE 802.11b/g Wireless Technology� 3 x Detachable� Antenna� 2.4 GHz IEEE 802.11b/g ISM Band Frequency Band/Bandwidth�� 10Mbps Ethernet, 100Mbps Fast Ethernet and 1Gbps Gigabit Ethernet Data Transfer Rate�� 54MbpsTransmission Speed�� 54Mbps Auto-fallback IEEE 802.11g 6Mbps IEEE 802.11g 11Mbps Auto-fallback IEEE 802.11b 1Mbps IEEE 802.11b 4 x RJ-45 LAN Interfaces/Ports��

Specifications Wireless Specifications Wireless Technology�

IEEE 802.11b/g

Antenna� Frequency Band/Bandwidth�� Transmission Speed�� Details��

Wireless Security�� Interfaces/Ports Interfaces/Ports�� Media & Performance Connectivity Media� Data Transfer Rate�� Management & Protocols Security�� Physical Characteristics Form Factor Weight Dimensions

3 x Detachable 2.4 GHz IEEE 802.11b/g ISM Band 54Mbps 54Mbps Auto-fallback IEEE 802.11g 6Mbps IEEE 802.11g 11Mbps Auto-fallback IEEE 802.11b 1Mbps IEEE 802.11b Wi-Fi Protected Access (WPA and WPA2) WEP encryption length: 64/128-bit 4 x RJ-45 LAN Category 5 Twisted Pair 10Mbps Ethernet 100Mbps Fast Ethernet 1Gbps Gigabit Ethernet Network Address Translation (NAT) Stateful Packet Inspection (SPI) VPN pass-through/multi-session PPTP/L2TP/IP Sec Wall-mountable 0.7 lb 1.2" Height x 4.6" Width x 7.6" Depth

Source: http://salestores.com/dlink862.html This is all I will bring out in this version of Covac backup communication systems and more will come and/or bad pages will be taken out in next version but this information is to educate users reading this document on specific Wireless N routers, I recommend getting a router that allows modifying of the source code even if it doesn't have a detachable antenna because antennas can always be modified and any attempt of converting your router to be apart of Covac systems will void your warranty regardless of whether you modify the firmware or antenna but firmwares are hard to hack and could void the functionality of your router but it all is a chance you will have to take by creating a peer to peer mininet. I again warn you that Covac will be super slow if it was to be used nationally but with enough hacking and modification by hackers around the fields Covac can eventually become a mainstream alternative to the Internet. Anyways The parts and routers needed for Covac are simply, just follow these guidelines and anything improved will improve the network but needs to be compatiable with other Covac systems or else it may lead to peer and peer network problems.

Complete Guidelines for parts and routers
Quantity product/Part Description/Specific Instructions The router that uses the Covac system will be used to both share and receive communications/data This will be what you hookup to the router and then set it somewhere high enough to accept communications from next satellite. 1, 4 for multi-directinal peer Wireless N/G sharing systems, more then 8 for general backups 1, 4 for multi-directional sharing Biquad Antenna all put together and receiving of Wireless data, 8 for spares and backups

1

Programming software good Visual programming or other enough for recompiling firmware programming software capable source code of modifing the source codes of router firmware 1 computer (optional unless you want type of data, dns, or any other servicing for your Covac routing system) Clean electric generator (Optional) The computer will be used to host servers, such as personal DNS/Domain Services, web/secure Servers, Instant Messenger services, etc etc. This will be what will keep your electric bills from skyrocking from use of the Covac system You should use encryption because anybody can tap into your communications. Tor should be modified to work as a server and connect other nodes since the usual Tor software connects to a remote list, and won't work on Covac unless a user is connected to the net as well as the Covac. The cables will be used to connect Computer servicing, and/or non servicing systems and also be used to connect extra Covac routers to sync data between them and sync the software and may be considered as data intersects Should only be used at the first stage because Any Bittorrent or P2P system used may crash the

1, or more because the more computers means more power, speed and data distribution.

1

1 or more depending on licenses SSH Server or Modified Tor software

1 per connection to another Cat5/6 Ethernet Cables Covac router for syncing data transfers and systems, also 1 per computer/Server connection

1 or more as licensed

Protocol blocking software

Covac system if there are no speed limits for each user. 1 per computer (Desktop recommended) Web Server (Optional) A Web Server allows your computer to service a website or websites, some allows virtual domain name or IP Addrss binding. A HTTPS Server or secure server will allow only secure transmissions to your website/s or webpage/s. It usually uses encryption from 128bit to 256bit. A Instant Messenger Server allows communications encrypted or plain through Instant Messaging clients. It is low bandwidth used since usually only text is transmitted but it may also allow file transferring. DNS is the most important part of Covac, it allows people to access sites under your server using a unique name. All domains under local DNS Servers will not be used by everyone unless the proper IP Address is imputed. A modification must be added to the router to allow a huge storage amount (at least 1GB) for the operating system of Covac to allow the Covac powered router to run properly This modification allows non wireless transfer of data between neighboring and compatible routers.

1 per computer (Desktop recommended)

HTTPS Server (Optional)

1 per computer (Desktop recommended)

Instant Messenger Server (Optional)

1 or more per computer (Desktop recommended)

DNS Server (Desktop recommended)

1, or more

SD Card added modification to router

Not a ordinary part

Modification of router to allow cable and/or fiber optic connection

Those on the list is all the guidelines on parts required and anything else can be added or not added but just following the Covac guidelines will ensure that your routing system may be comptable with other Covac compiled systems.

The software needed (All open source) to help construct the system – G. and II. The software and systems in plan for the routing and network operations
Now the very important part of Covac is the software, and now the software hasn't been developed yet but once the best Covac software can be developed then that developher may contact me and I shall add his/her system to the guidelines in this document. So now this is the guidelines of the Covac software system: SD Modification memory Must be less then 1GB and must allow expansion so maximum operating system memory should be at least 700MB and allow firmware expansions. Should be based off of special coordinates but still should at least be based off of the old IP/4 systems to ensure compatibility with older and newer operating systems 255.255.255.255 # of router. ext of # of router. Ext of $ of router. Special area code or made up unique area code of router not above IP Address standard number Load Balancing All wireless systems must be balanced to allow communications from all side, recom,mendations are extra backup active satellites for extra bandwidth improvements and software must balance all systems in the same area to load everything equally and allows communications from all sides without error The firmware system needs to allow connections with other Covac routers to allow larger array communications in wider areas but the more larger the array the slower the bandwidth and speed for everybody unless the system is upgraded with more seperate router systems. This is a very advenaced protocol system not yet invented. Secure Connection means that if you connect to a protected router under Secure Connection you must request permission for a encrypted passcode or if you already have the passcode then enter it to fully sync and connect with the neighboring router. This will allow communications between router

IP Address System

Router Syncing and Secure Connection Modification for allows router to connect with other routers

Firmware enabled encryption

will all be fully encrypted, you can also use custom leyered encryption using a custom passcode but you will have to request that the neighboring routers accept the passcode between you but won't be used with systems connected to the neighboring router unless those systems as well accept the new passcode, this is to prevent outer snoopers and examination of communications data, it should use at least AES, Twofish, Serpent, RC5, or RC6 data and key encryption with at least 256Bit. It will not protect your data from snoops that have access to the router and is recommended to use client enabled encryption as well. Communications system for talking to peers and/or other Routers A communications system based on jabber or another very good communications system and allows searching of available peers in a certain area to send Warnings, or other needed messages to peers, and also allows communications with other Router Admins and/or Staff hired by Admins. Communications system should all use very strong encryption. To allow updates from multiple sources, CDs, Possibly DVDs, Other Routers (upon accepted permission) which downloads/Shares Covac style firmware from a provider, and/or peers and possible technicians. Every system needs a firewall but is not recommended for intersects and should only be used for end based Covac systems and/or Computers needing protecting. The firewall should not block any ports at all unless a port is used in a majority of hacker attacks at a given time. A system that allows special modifications and addons which are not included with any Covac Operating System firmware, addons can be anything from keeping time, to nifty features, to anything else, like for example, addons to Firefox. A special system in need by any local police or any other emergency divisions and can be used during national emergencies and even terrorist attacks and is recommended to be used to talk with other civilians for comfort and a tool to keep the peace. If the Covac router is modified to use a Fiber

Updating system

Firewall

Special Extensions System

Emergency Alert system/Amber alert extension:

Cable connection Detection system

Optic or Cable, or if it is connected to a single/multiple cable modem/s connection then this is a optional system to allow communications through cable to allow peer and peer controlled cable and fiber optic systems in case the wireless gets really swamped with data transfers and high volumes of traffic. Ethernet Syncing support It also allows not just syncing of both Wireless and Fiber/Coaxial Cable syncing but allows neighboring routers to connect using high speed Ethernet from gigabit to megabit Ethernet systems. Allows users to connect and/or share resources with Hard Drives shared from computers and hard drives connected to the network, and also allows other devices to be connected to the system that are custom made by venders/technicians/users/Admins drivers to be used, it is optional that the custom made drivers can be imported/exported and can be shared with other router admins upon request.

External HD, and Custom driver Support

These are all the guidelines for the software system to be used, it is recommended that all intersects use Coaxial or Special Fiber optic cables between neighboring routers because it would increase the speeds of both users, Router Admins and allow extra systems in case one of them goes down during natural disasters, power outages in certain areas, thunder storms, and other reasons. I have even designed a few example images of how the system will load and work:

Anyways the software that is needed to help construct the system is open source software because it can be modified to work for anything on any system so heres the list of software recommended to help build your Covac system: 1. Linux/Minix (Minix is good for OLPC style laptops, and should work good on lower systems such as mobile devices and routers with modified memory cells to allow larger systems other then just firmware) 2. BIND/OpenDNS To allow a user to host their own local server/service DNS system without hosting it on a computer and allows local routers tying into the DNS Domain Name System 3. Apache Web Server and SSL Extension (To allow the Admins and permitted users to access a page that allows configurations to be worked with on the system) 4. Jabber (for communications and relaying messages to other routers) 5. Eraser (Since it's open source it can be modified to erase free space and temp space not used on the router to protect security, and privacy 6. SmoothWall, pfSense (Both open source firewalls and shouldn't have to be fancy just enough to guard the router/routers against attacks and unauthorized intrusion.

So looks like I talked about everything until now explains how the system shall work and what parts it shall use. It should not be used as a replacement for the Internet and just as a backup, covert, and other good uses if anything happens to the Internet. It allos private communications but phone use might be too much for heavily used Covac Routers until the routers are ungraded into better wireless, better systems, and better models. There is one more thing I like to talk about one way to modify a router to accept a SD Card memory chipping system that will hold the operating system data. Details for one type of router (could be used to help with all type of routers but be aware of the consequences if you screw up Source: http://www.dd-wrt.com/wiki/index.php/Buffalo_WHR-G54S_and_WHR-HPG54_SD/MMC_mod SD/MMC Modification for the Buffalo WHR-G54S and WHR-HP-G54 Wireless Router Update: 2007-11 The prior edition of this tutorial was attempted, by at least two users, specifically on WHR-HP-G54's. Of a variety of SD and MMC cards, none worked. Since then, the missing tags in the tutorial have been added and it works! Have Fun! Mega-shouts to Iron for an extensive tutorial.

Introduction
This tutorial guides you through adding a SD or MMC interface to the Buffalo WHR-G54S and Buffalo WHR-HP-G54 router and gives some general information and tips to help you to do the same with other DD-WRT routers. The DD-WRT V2.4 firmware supports this modification, so there is no need to install modules or packages. All configurations can be done from the web interface. The modification will allow you to add non-volatile memory to your router. I recommend using a SD card up to 1GB. Some forum users reported that they got 2GB working, but both my 2GB cards failed to work. This might be solved in future with an updated MMC driver, but probably my SD cards are to blaim. The problem is that there are quite a number of incompatible 2GB cards around. This modification might also work with MMC cards, but the used communication protocol(SPI) is optional for MMC cards. It is only required for SD and mini-SD cards. So start with a SD card of 1GB or less to confirm that everything is working. 1GB does perhaps not sound like a lot, but for this application it is huge! So what can you do with this added storage capacity: • Store your own custom programs, scripts and packages (standard or optware) • Store communication and packet logs • Store your e-mail database for your e-mail server • Store your files for your web server • Store your files for your ftp server

• Store all /jffs content on the card, instead of a network share • Provide (very slow) swap space There is another way to add storage capacity to your router, and that is by mounting a shared directory on your computer. DD-WRT supports Samba shares, which is the default Windows sharing mechanism. Samba shares can also be made with Linux. Mounting a shared directory will make the available hard disk space accessible to your router. Compared to the SD/MMC modification using Samba this has some disadvantages: • Samba only works over a wired connection (so a wire between the PC and router is required) • Your PC needs to be powered up for the storage capacity to be available You can read more about how to mount a directory with Samba here: The Samba Filesystem Note: The Samba tutorial is outdated. I will add a section to it to show you how to mount a Samba share with the V2.4 firmwares. The modification is not difficult to implement, but some decent soldering skills are required and knowing how to operate a multi-meter would be very handy.

[edit] The SD card
Let's have a look at the requirements to access an SD card via the simplest available protocol: SPI (Serial Peripheral Interface). SD Pin 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 SD function(SPI Mode) Chip Select (CS) * Data In (DI) Ground Vcc (3.3v) Clock (CLK) Ground Data Out (DO) Reserved Reserved Direction IN IN IN OUT The SD Card pin assignment

(*) A low level on "Chip Select" selects the chip

From this we can see what is needed:

• • • •

Ground Power, 3.3 volt 3 outputs (that are going to control the 3 inputs of the SD card) 1 input (that is going to read the data from the SD card output)

In fact we do not actually need to actively select the SD card via the Chip Select line. We can just always select it by grounding the signal. So in that case we only need 2 outputs. Now let's get to it and open our router to find what we need.

[edit] How to open your router
Check this Wiki How to open the Buffalo WHR-HP-G54 to see how to open a WHR-G54S or WHRHP-G54 router without breaking it. Inside you will find a Printed Circuit Board (PCB).

Finding suitable IO points
Once you have opened the router you will have access to the PCB. We need to find several points on the board that we are going to use to build our SD/MMC interface. To find these points we will need our general purpose friend, the multi-meter. [edit] Finding Ground It is very easy to find a grounded point, because ground is present all over the PCB. In most cases the input power ground will also be the ground for the whole PCB. So start looking at the input power connector. This connector has quite big soldering pads, which makes it easy to add an extra wire. Once this point is found, verify it by checking big metal object on the PCB. Usually the metal housing around the transmitter (see pictures below to find it) will be grounded too. To verify that the points are connected use the conductivity check of the multi-meter. Make sure the router is powered down. The connection between the points should give you a very low resistance, about the same resistance as what you would get when just shorting the multi-meter probes. With the Buffalo WHR-G54S I found that the metal mounting pins for the AOSS switch are also grounded(indicated with SD3/6 in the picture below). This gave me an easy ground access point, and is also a nice point for the routing of the wires. [edit] Finding power, 3.3 volt Once a grounded point is found we can start looking for the 3.3 volt power supply that we need. Check your power supply specification that is written on it. Check if it provides AC or DC at the output. Often AC is indicated with a wavy line: ~. DC is indicated like this: power supply with a multi-meter. . Verify the information on the

If the power supply output is 3.3 volt DC (WHR-G54S), then check the power socket connection at the PCB for 3.3 volt. To verify this you need to power up the router. Be very careful with this, as it is very easy to short circuit the board with some parts lying around. Switch the multi-meter to DC volt measurement, range 0-20 volt. The actual value that you find might be slightly higher or lower than 3.3 volt(3.1-3.5 volt). If you power supply states an output voltage higher than 3.3 volt (WHR-HP-G54, +5v, others usually 5 or 12 volts) then the PCB contains a power regulator to lower the input voltage to 3.3 volt DC. You will need to find this power converter, and it's 3.3 volt DC output. The power converter is a big component, usually close to the input power socket. Power up the router and connect one multimeter probe to a grounded point. Then carefully use the other probe to check the voltage at

big pads of the big components close to the power socket until you find the 3.3 volt DC power supply. Below you can see what is printed on a WHR-G54S power supply. It states that it delivers 3.3 volts DC, and maximal 2 amps. How convenient! Image of a WHR-G54S Power Supply (a WHR-HP-G54 is different, supplying +5v).

[edit] Finding general IO output points To control the SD card we need some outputs, which are connected to the inputs of the SD card. Routers usually contain LED's to signal their status. This gives us a easy opportunity to find some output points. The only disadvantage of this is that we will lose the signalling functionality of the LED's because they are now used for the SD card communication. What we first should establish is which LED's we can control by software. To do this login to the router and use the "gpio" command. So under Windows type in your dos box:
telnet <router IP address>

The default IP address is 192.168.1.1. Telnet needs to be enabled for this, which it is by default. You can enable or disabled it in the services tab of the web interface. The login name is: "root", even if you changed the router name. The default password is "admin". The syntax of the gpio command is like this:
gpio enable <IO pin number> gpio disable <IO pin number> gpio poll <IO pin number> # to enable a IO pin, which switches the LED off # to disable a IO pin, which switches the LED on # to read the status of a switch

For the <IO pin number> use numbers between 0 and 14. So watch the LED's closely while giving the gpio commands. You can also use this little command line to make your life easier:
while true; do gpio disable 1; sleep 3; gpio enable 1; sleep 3; done

It will switch on the LED for 3 seconds, then switch if off for 3 seconds, and so on. You will need to press <CTRL> + "c" to exit from this command. Replace the "1" in two places to change it for other IO pin numbers. In the screen capture below you can see how it should look.

There is one important thing to consider! The IO pins can be used for input and for output purposes, and as you might know, there is usually a reset switch on a router. So what would happen if you write the status of the pin that is used to see if the reset button was pressed!? Right, you create a reset. You lose your settings as if you pressed the reset button. You will lose the telnet connection and see the LED's flashing. When the router restarts it can happen that the reset button is still "pressed", which will cause the router to reset the NVRAM to factory default values. It should be clear that you cannot use this IO pin for the SD card interface. Now go through all the IO numbers and record accurately which LED's are software controllable by which IO pin number. In many cases you will not see a LED changing. This means that the IO is not in use, or perhaps is used for input purposes. A WHR-G54S yielded this:
GPIO 1 - Bridge LED (Green, 3rd LED from top on front panel GPIO 2 - WLAN LED (Green) GPIO 3 - Extra or Missing LED, between bridge and WLAN (Green if present, not visible when case is on) GPIO 6 - AOSS LED (Orange, on top) GPIO 7 - Diag LED (Red)

And I found that the reset button is using GPIO 4:
GPIO 4 - Reset Button

The power LED is not software controllable in my routers. We need 2 or 3 outputs and we 5 found, so let's make some choices. Let's use the extra LED and the AOSS LED, the Bridge LED is optional. So now we have found some LED's that we can control by software. Each LED has 2 connections, a

positive site (anode) and a negative site (cathode). So an important question arises. Which side of the LED do we need to connect to? To answer this we need to use the multi-meter again. Send the command described above to make the LED that needs to be analyzed flash on-off-on. Ground one probe and measure the voltage on each side of the LED. We need to use the side of the LED that that changes between about 0.2 volt when it is on, and 3.3 volt when it is off. The wrong side will be at about 2 volts when the LED is on, and 3.3 volt when it is off. In the Buffalo router one side of the LED is marked with a "+", we will need to use the other side of the LED. [edit] Finding a general IO input point We need to find 1 input. The switches on the router are the candidates for this. The Buffalo WHR-G54S or WHR-HP-G54 routers have 3 switches: • A reset switch, which is not suitable to use as it has some side effects ;) • The AOSS switch • The Auto/Bridged switch We can use the "gpio" command again, this time to read the IO status:
gpio poll <IO pin number> # to read the status of a switch

This command will wait until a change in the switch position is detected and signal this by printing "00" or "01". So execute the command and press all (except reset) switches and check if you see some output on the screen. We will need to press <CTRL> + "c" to exit from this command. Try this with all IO numbers that were not connected to a LED. In my case this yielded:
GPIO 0 - AOSS button on top (State 00 is down, state 01 is up) GPIO 5 - Auto/Bridge Switch (State 00 is "bridge", state 01 is "Auto")

I already knew that the reset switch was behind GPIO 4. I choose to use the Auto/Bridge switch because this switch is not very useful. With the DD-WRT firmware it not used anyway; the router mode is defined by the software settings, not by the switch. The switch has several leads going into the PCB. So we need to find out which lead/soldering pad we need to access so the system can read the IO status from the pin. To find this pad we need a multi-meter again. We need to find the soldering pad that is at about 3.3 volt when the switch is in 1 position, and close to 0 volt when it is the other position. See the pictures below to see which solder pad I found. It is very important to leave the switch in the position where the multi-meter reads 3.3 volt, otherwise the switch is forcing the IO line to a certain level, which makes it unusable. Leave the switch in the "Auto" position.

[edit] The wiring layout
In total this yielded the following wiring layout:

SD CARD Pin 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 Function( Direction IO SPI Mode) Chip Select (CS) * Data In (DI) Ground IN IN -

Router Function Direction OUT OUT OUT -

The SD card pin assignment

Ground (Bridge (or LED) GPIO 1) GPIO 6 Ground Vcc (3.3v) GPIO 3 Ground GPIO 5 AOSS LED Ground Vcc (3.3v) Extra LED Ground

Vcc (3.3v) Clock (CLK) Ground Data Out (DO) Reserved Reserved IN OUT -

Bridge/A uto IN switch -

(*) A low level on "Chip Select" selects the chip The use of GPIO 1 for the "Chip Select" signal is optional. If you don't use it then just ground SD pin 1. You might swap around the LED's any way you like, but make sure to reflect this also in the DD-WRT Gui(see below). I've seen that some people build this modification and connect router outputs to the SD card output. This is confirmed to work too, but is not recommended! It might destroy your router and/or your SD card. The reason why it works is because the IO's are general purpose IO's, which means that they can be reconfigured in software to work as an input or output. But what happens during boot up, when the LED's are flashing!? Just don't do this!

[edit] Implementing the modification
[edit] Requirements & Parts
Now it's time to implement the modification. For this we need: • • • • A multi-meter some pieces of thin wire (stranded ethernet wire, or wire diameter about 0.18mm) some soldering tin (fine electrical solder) and a soldering iron with a small tip. Recommended soldering irons of 15-20 watts, or better irons with a controllable temperature. If only "lead free" solder is available, use 400 degree

setting, which is quite high, but needed because the solder used has a higher melting point. • a small piece of natural sponge, wet, to clean the tip of the soldering iron, and any other normal soldering accessories. See these links if you are new to soldering electronics [1] [2]. • Some glue to fixate the wires and parts (I recommend rubber glue) • An SD card (1GB or less is recommended at first) • An SD card socket or adapter (see below for some suggestions) The modification is not difficult to implement, but some decent soldering skills are required and knowing how to operate a multi-meter would be very handy.

[edit] Getting an SD Card socket
It is possible to directly solder the wires to the SD card, but I recommend against this as it reduces flexibility a lot. I recommend getting a SD card adapter. Of course one can buy a socket only, however there are (cheaper) alternatives: 1) Use a mini-SD to SD card adapter. In many cases this adapter comes for free with a mini-SD card, but one sometimes can buy them separately too. The wires can be soldered to the adapter. This is not a very sturdy solution.

2) Disassemble a 'USB-to-SD Card' adapter. These are usually less expensive than buying only the socket. This is what I did. I bought a tiny adapter for 15 rmb (about 1.5 euro or 2 US$) and disassembled it. The adapter is so tiny that I did not need to remove the adapter from the circuit board at all. I just removed all components that were not needed(smd resistors, LED, USB connector, x-tal). The USB-SD card adapter I used is shown below.

3) Use a 5.25 inch floppy disk cable connector. The pitch of this cable is the same as what is used with SD cards. This is quite a bulky solution, but it works ok. I'm not sure if you will be able to close your router when choosing this solution.

[edit] Wiring Points
• Note: The WHR-G54S wiring points are different than the WHR-HP-G54. The WHR-G54S uses a +3.3v power supply, and it's LED's do not require resistors to drop the voltage. The WHR-HP-G54 uses a +5.0v power supply. The wiring points for the WHR-HP-G54 are before the resistor, on the side away from the LED. Refer to the WHR-HP-G54 image below, it is very accurate.

The pictures below show which points need to be soldered to the SD adapter. SD1 refers to SD card pin 1. Be very careful when soldering, especially when soldering the LED's/resistors. They drop off easily if one heats them too long. So go for a short accurate soldering action of about 1 second. If it fails then let the LED/resistor cool down and try again. Once the connection is established you can use some rubber glue to fixate the wires so they don't come of so easily anymore. I also used rubber glue to fixate the SD card adapter to some large components present on the PCB. WHR-G54S wiring points, Component side (Not WHR-HP-G54!):

WHR-G54S wiring points, Back-side (Not WHR-HP-G54!):

WHR-HP-G54 wiring points: Note - All the WHR-HP-G54 wiring points are on the component side.

[edit] Setting up DD-WRT to support the modification
We will need to configure the MMC interface in the DD-WRT GUI (firmware V2.4). Set it up as indicated in the screenshot of the Administration screen below. If you soldered SD Pin 1(Chip Select) to ground then you can use any(0-9) unused GPIO output number in the CS field. The screenshot also indicates that modification is working, the available disk space is shown. In case something is wrong I usually found that 3,008.00 KB is reported. This also happens if no SD card is inserted.

Be careful now, all data on the SD card will be erased without warning once you boot the router. If everything works correctly then DD-WRT will format the SD card with the EXT2 file system if this file system in not present on the card. This will take some time, so be patient. If everything works, then the DD-WRT gui will report the available disk space. An extra reboot might be required for this. • User Mcta Comments: If, for some reason the DD-WRT format process doesn't work, you can try formatting the card externally. To do this you'll need a Linux package. For Windows only users you can download a CD bootable version of Knoppix linux. When you format the card make sure the block size is 1024 bytes or smaller. For a 1 GB SD flash card Knoppix chooses a default block size of 4096 bytes. To format the card with a 1024 byte block size use the following command:
sudo mke2fs -b 1024 /dev/sda1 (change the /dev/sda1 as appropriate)

[edit] Editing files and folders on the card
• The SD card is automatically mounted at: "/mmc". • If CIFS/SAMBA doesn't work, or you just want to store all the JFFS/IPKG content on the Router, JFFS space can be moved onto the card. To do this, turn on JFFS in the Web Administration page, mkdir /mmc/jffs and put the command in your startup: mount --bind /mmc/ jffs /jffs. Now anything written into /jffs is actually being stored on the SD card, in /mmc/jffs. JFFS now also shows the same free space as the SD card in the Web interface. • It is possible to automatically run a script from the SD card. To do this create a executable script in: "/mmc/etc/config". See Startup_Scripts#Save_the_Script and Script_Execution • Windows does not support the EXT2 file system, but this can be solved with a driver that can be found here: http://www.fs-driver.org • To access the router file system and SD card from any computer which can SSH into the router, you can use SCP. For Windows XP (or 2K) users, WinSCP.

[edit] Some pictures of the modification on a WHR-G54S

[edit] Pictures of the modification on a WHR-HP-G54

[edit] Credits
Your feedback, questions and remarks are welcome, just drop Iron a message in the forum. Missing tags/info/additional photos/very minor structural changes by sdoboze Kudos to JohnS Another source is: http://www.blog.lausdahl.com/post/Linksys-WRT150N-v1-SD-Mod-Guide.aspx So if you can modify the source code of the firmware then you can add capabilities for SD Card memory for the SD Card to be the chip to hold the operating system and then main chip for the firmware that extends the capabilities for the operating system that manages the Covac Internet System.

III. Ways to build communities and selected peers for the system
Now it isn't too hard to persuade your neighbor and others to participate in this so called peer to peer system, it can be as easy as knocking on your neighbors door and when the door is open say hello and that you brought cookies and when you come in just start up the conversation if he/she likes to run a piece of the Covac Internet System and even offer to pay for it if you really want your neighbors to participate. If your neighbor agrees give him something in return such as him/her being able to run a server and have their website available to all peers connected to the Covac system connected to the server the neighbors are running.

You don't lie to them, Don't make false promises, just tell them the truth and what Covac is for (Although you can take out the political talk since talking about politics can sometimes lead to trouble or a slammed door on your face) and so just tell them that it's a backup Internet and that the satellite can go uo to up to a lot of miles of distance using a Biquad antenna and that it's not hard to make and even help with it. The community is like a system, it needs to work together or else it's not a community but a dysfunctional system that isn't worth building infrastructure. So this is really all you need to know and use your imagination to help build your community, why should you read a document to know that?

IV. Protocols listing
Here are the protocols for the Covac system: Covac Encryption Protocol CEP is a special protocol that routes all data in encryption once the data becomes encrypted it should only use one port such as 3455 and still allow people to access services on other ports because when it first gets encrypted it sends information like this for example: PORT:00000-TRANSMISSION-TO-IP-???.???.???.???---FROM-IP-???.???.???.???:::{DATA} So after it goes through all decrypted data should go through the regular port that was originally used before the data was encrypted through the routers. Covac Location Awareness Protocol CLAP is another special Covac Protocol that allows those that decide to want to share which address they live can use this protocol, the software for it has not been specified yet because it is suppose to be covert and not reveal peoples addresses but this is only for those who develop a addon for this but will reveal peoples locations and can lead to tracks people activities and should not be used at all except for a few occasions. This protocol works in this way: TRANSMITTING INFO FROM IP ???.???.???.??? TO IP ???.???.???.??? ABOUT IP???.???.???.??? ADDING ADDRESS FOUND IN RECORD 449 SOUTH AVENUE STREET ZIP CODE 12345 STATE NJ PHONE NUMBER 123-123-4321 NAME JACKOP PHILIPS [END TRASMISSION] So it works like a IP lookup except it is not in a database you have to request it manually from the router but not a user using that router because a regular user is not a manager of that router and only the router admins can input the CLAP information Covac Operating System Protocol COSP is a protocol that allows you to send what type, version and company of the operating system you have to another user or router and can be used to configure the connection to work at it's best with the Covac system. You can choose a custom name as well to fool hackers but may lead to connection and other problems. Covac Time Protocol CTP is the time of the current system (Router/user) and is the same as NTP but except it produces the Time zone, area code, the day/month/year and hour/minute/second/millisecond

and so it is a very advanced time protocol and can convert CTP to NTP and with the proper software it can even edit your computers clock to match the time of your intersect or providers CTP time and should include the new changes for daylight savings time so computer patches may not be necessary These are just a few of the protocols Covac can have, work with, and can use and so these are all things it can use to make Covac one of the best backups and Alternatives to the Internet.

This is how the system built is going to work

All Power of the router is concentrated into a beam making wider communications without boosting the power of the broadcasting wifi or receiving dish clients. That means that this dish system does not violate any FCC codes and will effectively give us an network not under federal or presidential control. This system will be attacked by government authorities and secret societies one after another but those who can fight will have to fight for this system to be allowed. I don't condone acts of terrorist or civil wars because doing so would get me called a terrorist and I made this in case the president goes insane and shuts down our Internet and crashes the stock market.