Home Repair

Most homeowners don't pay much
attention to their roof until rain or melt-
ing snow starts to leak through it—then
it demands immediate action. But if
you periodically inspect your roof, you
can correct minor problems before
they become serious enough to cause
damage.
Understanding the structure of
your roof (see below) is the first step
toward diagnosing possible problems.
On the facing page, you'll find direc-
tions for inspecting your roof from the
inside and outside. If your inspection in-
dicates that repairs are necessary refer
to pages 31-38.
CAUTION; Tile and slate roofs are
extremely slippery, and the materials
can break easily; metal and plastic
roofs also tend to be slippery. If your
house has one of these out-of-the-
ordinary roofs, it's best to leave inspec-
tion and repairs to a professional roof-
ing contractor.
A roof protects a house from damage
by the elements, especially water.
Roofs are designed to shed water; the
parts comprising a roof combine to di-
rect water off the roof and away from
the house.
Anatomy of a roof
A typical roof (see illustration at right)
begins with a framework of rafters
which supports a roof deck (sometimes
called a subroof) consisting of sheath-
ing and underlayment. The roof deck,
in turn, provides a nailing base for the
roof surface material.
The roof deck. Though the type of roof
deck used can vary depending on the
roof surface material, most decks have
both sheathing and underlayment.
Sheathing, the material that pro-
vides the nailing base for the roof sur-
face material, ranges from solid ply-
wood to fiberboard to open sheathing
(used with wood shakes).
Sandwiched between the sheath-
ing and the surface material is the
underlayment, usually roofing felt. A
heavy, fibrous black paper saturated
with asphalt, roofing felt is thick enough
to resist water penetration from outside,
yet thin enough to allow moisture from
inside the attic to escape.
The roof surface. The material on the
roof must be able to withstand wind,
rain, snow, hail, and sun. A wide variety
of roof surface materials is available—
the different types are discussed at
right and on pages 31-33.
The surface of the roof is often bro-
ken by angles and protrusions, all
of which require weatherproofing—
usually provided by the flashing. Made
from malleable metal or plastic, flash-
ing appears as the drip edge along the
eaves and rakes of a roof, the collars
around ventilation and plumbing pipes,
the valleys between two roof planes,
and the "steps" along a chimney or
dormer. Less obvious flashing also pro-
tects other breaks in the roof, such as
around some solar panels and sky-
lights. At the roof edges, metal, wood,
or vinyl gutters catch water runoff and
channel it to the ground via the down-
spouts, which direct water away from
the house and into the soil.
Types of roofing materials
Roofing varies widely in size, shape,
and material. Traditional sloping roofs
are usually covered with overlapping
layers of asphalt shingles, wood shin-
gles or shakes, or tile, though you can
find such roofs covered with slate, alu-
minum, or galvanized steel.
Flat or low-sloping roofs are most
often surfaced with alternating layers of
roofing felt and asphalt, with a layer of
gravel on top. These are known as
built-up, or tar-and-gravel, roofs. Some
flat roofs are covered with insulating
Polyurethane foam.
It's a good idea to inspect and repair
your roof in autumn, before the hard
weather hits. Then examine the roof
again in spring to assess whatever
damage may have occurred during the
winter. If you discover problems, make
the necessary repairs, following the in-
structions on pages 31-38.
Inspecting from inside. Begin an in-
spection in the attic, using a strong
flashlight, a thin screwdriver, a knife,
and a piece of chalk to examine the
ridge beam, rafters, and sheathing.
Look for water stains, dark-colored
areas of wet wood, moisture, and soft
spots that may indicate dry rot. Mark
the wet spots with chalk so you can find
them easily later on.
If it's necessary to remove fiber-
glass insulation batts to examine the
sheathing, be sure to wear loose cloth-
ing, gloves, goggles, and a respirator
for protection.
Next, turn off any lights. If you see
any holes above you, drive nails or
poke wire through them so they'll be
visible from the roof's surface. (In a
wood shingle roof, small shafts of light
coming in at an angle indicate cracks
that may swell shut when the shingles
are wet.)
Inspecting from outside. When you
examine the roof from outdoors, evalu-
ate the condition of the roof structure,
surface material, flashings, eaves, and
gutters.
To check the roof structure, stand
back from the house and look at the
lines of the ridge and rafters. The ridge
line should be perfectly horizontal, and
the line of the rafters, which you can
assess by looking along the plane of
each roof section, should be straight. If
either sags, call in a professional
contractor—you may have a structural
problem.
Next, inspect the roof's surface.
Before climbing up on your roof, be
sure to read the safety tips on page 30.
If you're at all nervous about going up
on the roof, make the inspection from a
ladder, using a pair of binoculars. Don't
walk on the roof any more than is abso-
lutely necessary; you can easily cause
more damage.
Inspect the flashings for rust spots
and broken seals along the edges. If
you have metal gutters and down-
spouts, look for rust spots and holes.
Then examine the roof surface for
signs of wear, loose or broken nails, or
curled, broken, or missing shingles.
Use a knife and screwdriver to test
the boards along the eaves and rakes.
Scrape out any damage caused by dry
rot, treat with a wood preservative, and
fill the holes with wood putty If the dam-
age is extensive, replace the boards and
finish them to match the existing areas.
Roof leaks usually appear during
storms, when you can't make per-
manent repairs. But you can take some
steps to temporarily divert or halt the
flow of water, as shown below.
Generally leaks begin at a roof's
most vulnerable spots—at flashings,
where shingles are damaged or miss-
ing, in valleys, or at eaves. Often, the
water shows up far from its point of ori-
gin after working its way through layers
of roofing materials and down rafters to
collect in a puddle on the attic or bed-
room floor.
During a storm, trace the course of
water from where it's dripping through
the ceiling to where it's coming through
the roof. Drive a nail or poke wire
through the hole so you can find the
hole later when you get up on the roof.
Once the roof is dry enough,
check it thoroughly looking for weak
spots that indicate a source for the leak.
Keep in mind that the point where a nail
or wire is poking through may be below
the actual source. Make permanent re-
pairs as described on pages 31-33.
Asphalt shingles are composed of mats
made from organic or fiberglass mate-
rial impregnated with asphalt, in which
are embedded colored mineral gran-
ules. Organic-base asphalt shingles,
also called composition shingles, have
a felt mat made from wood and paper
fibers. Fiberglass-base asphalt shin-
gles, commonly called fiberglass shin-
gles, have a fiberglass mat. Asphalt
roofing is also manufactured in the form
of roll roofing (page 33).
Though shapes vary, many as-
phalt shingles are notched at intervals
to form tabs, giving the appearance of
smaller units. They usually last from 15
to 25 years, depending on the climate
and type of mat. Asphalt shingles that
are aging may show bald spots; an-
other clue to aging is a heavy accumu-
lation of granules in the gutters, indi-
cating crumbling shingles.
Check your roof's condition on a
warm day when the shingles are flex-
ible. Remove a tiny piece of the corner
from one or two shingles on each roof
plane; the core of the shingle should be
black. Gently bend several shingles
back to see if they're flexible. If a num-
ber of shingles appear gray and
bloated, if the material crumbles easily
or if you see large bare spots or dam-
aged areas, consider replacing the
roof.
Cracked, torn, or curled shingles
can be repaired, as shown below; re-
place any loose or missing nails. If
some of the shingles are badly worn or
damaged, replace them (see below).
Use shingles that remain from the origi-
nal roof installation. If you don't have
any leftover shingles, you'll have to buy
new ones—identical in brand, color,
and size, if possible. Fasten the shin-
gles with galvanized roofing nails long
enough to penetrate all roofing layers
(at least 11/2 inches long).
Don't remove a damaged shingle
that's on a ridge or along a hip; instead,
nail each corner in place. Then apply
roofing cement to the bottom of a new
shingle and place it over the defective
one. Nail each corner, then cover the
nail heads with roofing cement.
When you repair asphalt shingles,
do the work on a warm day when the
shingles are more pliable; cold shingles
are brittle and can break easily Also,
have roofing cement at room tempera-
ture so it will spread more easily
Wood shingles have a smooth, finished
appearance; wood shakes have a
rough-hewn look. Both are made from
western red cedar. Shingles are sawn
into lengths of 16, 18, or 24 inches.
Shakes, which are thicker than shin-
gles, are split by machine or by hand
into 18 or 24-inch lengths. Both come in
random widths.
Shingles and shakes are laid in
overlapping courses, or rows. Shingles
either have a continuous underlayment
of roofing felt or none at all; shakes
alternate with strips of felt. Both shin-
gles and shakes may be laid directly on
the sheathing or over an earlier roof-
ing surface, such as asphalt shingles.
They are attached with galvanized
roofing nails.
Wood shingles and shakes usually
last between 15 and 25 years, depend-
ing on the roof slope and the climate. If
you suspect wear, inspect the roof for
curled, broken, or split shingles, and for
shingles that have been lifted by wind.
Look also for shingles thinned by
weathering and erosion, especially
around areas where an attic inspection
reveals pinpoints of light (page 29).
Wood shakes show their age when the
wood crumbles easily underfoot or be-
tween your fingers.
The extent of the defects you find
will indicate whether you need to repair
or replace shingles or shakes. If only a
few shingles or shakes are split or wind-
lifted, you can repair them; those that
are badly splintered or curled or that
have begun to crumble should be re-
placed (for instructions, see illustrations
at right). If the damage is extensive,
consider replacing the entire roof.
To remove the nails from a dam-
aged shingle or shake you' re re-
placing, either rent a shingle ripper or
use a hacksaw blade. To use the ripper,
slide it under the shingle and around a
nail; then cut the shank of the nail with a
hammer blow (see at right).
Since shingles and shakes are ran-
dom widths, you'll need to trim the new
ones to fit the space, using a roofer's
hatchet or a saw. Leave a V4-inch clear-
ance on each side of every replace-
ment piece to allow for expansion of the
wood.
Homes with flat or low-sloping roofs
usually have a built-up roof surface,
also called a tar-and-gravel roof.
Sheds, garages, and other out-
buildings are sometimes roofed with
asphalt roll roofing.
A built-up roof consists of several
layers of roofing felt, each coated with
hot or cold-mopped asphalt. The top
layer is surfaced with crushed gravel or
rock. These roofs generally last from 10
to 20 years, depending on the sun's
intensity
Asphalt roll roofing, made in the
same way as asphalt shingles (page
31), has a lifetime of 5 to 15 years.
Sometimes, roll roofing of a matching
color is used to cover the valleys of an
asphalt shingle roof.
Leaks in a flat roof are usually easy
to locate—they tend to be directly
above the wet area on the ceiling.
Leaks may develop at flashings (page
34) or where wind has blown the gravel
away to expose the surface. Leaks are
also likely where weather and wear
have caused blistered asphalt, sepa-
rations between the roof surface and
the drip edge, curling or split roofing
felt that's exposed, and cracks or holes
in the roof material.
Repairs are the same for both
built-up and roll roofing. Fill in any
cracks with roofing cement. If you're re-
pairing a blister or small hole (see be-
low), cut the patch you need from either
a piece of roll roofing or an asphalt shin-
gle. Use galvanized roofing nails to
secure the patch. Any hole larger than
a square foot should be patched by a
professional roofer.
If your roof is beyond repair and
must be replaced, it's best to call in a
professional. Resurfacing a flat roof
with layers of roofing felt and hot-
mopped asphalt is beyond the scope
of most homeowners because of the
processes and equipment involved;
moreover, working with hot molten
asphalt is a messy difficult, and even
dangerous job.
Flashing protects the roof at its most
vulnerable points: in the valleys, at roof
and plumbing vents, around chimneys,
along the eaves—anywhere water can
seep through open joints into the
sheathing (page 28). As you might ex-
pect, the areas where flashings are lo-
cated are the most prone to leaks.
Though you'll find flashings made
from plastic, roll roofing, roofing felt,
and rubber, the best choice for most
homes is flashing made from rust-
resistant metal, such as aluminum or
copper. The joints may be sealed with
roofing cement or caulking (for tips on
caulking, see page 49). Cracked or
crumbling cement or caulking is a
major cause of leaks around flashings.
Where flashing is found. Flashing is
found on shingled roofs wherever the
courses of shingles are interrupted,
whether by the intersection of two roof
planes or by obstructions. Flashing is
also installed around obstructions or
protrusions (such as vent pipes) on
built-up roofs (page 33).
• Chimney flashing is installed in two
layers to protect joints between the
chimney and roof. Step flashing
bends in an L shape to fit along the
roof deck and up the sides of the
chimney and is interleaved with the
shingles. Cap or counter flashing is
mortared or caulked into the chim-
ney and bends down over the step
flashing.
* Valley flashing may be open, with
shingles cut away to expose the
flashing (see facing page), or closed,
with shingles meeting or overlap-
ping at the center of the valley
* Vent pipe flashing is installed over
the course of shingles just below the
pipe. The next courses cover the
flashing.
• Skylights that are self-flashing (see
facing page) have built-in flanges
that sit on the roof deck. A skylight
mounted on a curb (a wood frame
attached to the roof deck) requires
flashing, much like that for chim-
neys, installed all around the curb.
• Drip edges are strips of flashing
installed under the shingles along
the eaves and rakes and over win-
dows and doors. They facilitate water
runoff.
• Dormer flashing is similar to step
flashing found on chimneys; it ex-
tends under the siding on the dor-
mer and under the roof shingles at
the base.
Repairing flashings. Inspect flash-
ings semi-annually Renail any loose
nails and cover all exposed nail heads
with roofing cement. Look carefully for
holes. You can plug pinholes with spots
of roofing cement; patch holes up to
about 3/4 inch in diameter with the same
material as the damaged flashing (see
below). Replace the flashing if you find
larger holes.
Check the all-important seals at
the flashings' edges. If the roofing ce-
ment or caulking is cracked, dried, or
crumbling, reseal the joints promptly
(directions for the most common types
of flashing appear on the facing page).
Repainting a flashing. To make the
flashing less conspicuous, it's often
painted to match the roof. Before re-
painting, use a stiff brush and solvent to
remove any flaking paint, rust, or corro-
sion from the flashing (keep solvent off
asphalt shingles; it will dissolve them).
Tape newspaper to the roof around
the flashing. Apply a zinc-base primer,
then spray on two or more light coats of
rust-resistant metal paint.
Replacing a flashing. You'll need to
replace any flashing that has large
holes or is badly corroded. You can buy
new flashing or fashion it out of alumi-
num or copper (use the old flashing as
a pattern). To install new flashing,
several courses of shingles as well as
the flashing itself have to be removed;
for instructions, see the Sunset book
Do-lt-Yourself Roofing & Siding. If you
have no roofing experience, it may be
best to hire a professional.
A roof sheds water, but it's the gutter
and downspout system that carries the
water away from the house.
Most gutters and downspouts are
made from galvanized steel, alumi-
num, or vinyl, though you may find
some made from wood or copper. Usu-
ally they can be painted to match the
exterior of the house.
Gutters are attached to the eaves
of the house with strap, bracket, or,
most commonly spike-and-ferrule
hangers (see at right). Downspouts are
attached to the exterior walls with
straps.
In order to work efficiently gutters
and downspouts must be in good con-
dition, must be sloped properly and
must be free of leaves and other debris.
Gutter and downspout mainte-
nance. Regular inspection and main-
tenance are crucial for keeping your
gutters and downspouts in good work-
ing order. Inspect them in the autumn
and spring, and clean out accumulated
leaves and other debris, as shown be-
low. Then check the slope of the gutters
by running water through them. If drain-
age is slow, reposition the gutters for
the correct slope: they should be tight
against the fascias and should slope
toward the downspouts at a rate of 1
inch for every 20 feet. You can correct
low spots by adjusting the hangers.
Test for weaknesses in gutters,
downspouts, and fascia boards by
probing with a thin screwdriver or knife.
Also, look for flaking or peeling paint,
rust spots, broken hangers, and holes
or leaky joints.
Repairing fascias, gutters, and
downspouts. If you find dry-rotted fas-
cia boards, repair them first. Carve out
bad spots and fill them with wood
putty or replace the damaged section
with a piece of well-seasoned lumber
(apply a wood preservative first), then
finish to match the existing boards.
Tighten any loose hangers and re-
place any that are broken. Check that
the downspout straps are secured to
the walls and that all elbow connections
fit tightly
Patch any leaky joints or holes in
gutters (see facing page), taking care
to clean them thoroughly first. Seal pin-
holes with a dab of roofing cement. If a
section of your gutter system is badly
damaged, replace it (for instructions,
see the Sunset book Do-lt-Yourself
Roofing & Siding).
Repaint the inside of wood gutters
as necessary with asphalt roof paint.
Sand down rusted and corroded areas
of metal gutters and apply asphalt
aluminum paint to the inside, rust-
preventative zinc-base primer outside.
Then paint the outside of wood or metal
gutters to match the house exterior (see
page 42 for tip on preparing and paint-
ing exterior wood).
Water that's allowed to flow from your
downspouts directly into the ground
may end up in your crawl space or
basement and can erode the soil
alongside the house, causing settling
of the structure.
To divert water away from the
house, you can use splashblocks,
flexible plastic sleeves attached to the
downspouts, or clay drainage pipes
that carry water to a dry well located
several yards from the house.
Splashblocks. Place a ready-made
concrete or plastic splashblock below
an elbow attached to the downspout.
Tilt the splashblock slightly so the wa-
ter flows away from the foundation.
Sleeves. An alternative to splash-
blocks is a plastic or fabric sleeve that
you attach directly to the downspout.
Some sleeves are perforated to dis-
perse the water over a large area. An-
other type unrolls as the water comes
down and carries the water several
feet from the house; a spring inside
the sleeve rolls it back up once the wa-
ter has drained. Look for sleeves in
home improvement centers.
Dry wells. If you live in a wet climate,
you may want to link your downspouts
to a dry well (check your local building
code before installing one).
Locate the dry well 10 or more
feet from the foundation. The well it-
self can be simply a hole 2 to 4 feet
wide and 3 feet deep; or you can bury
a 55-gallon oil drum after puncturing it
with holes and removing both ends.
Fill the well with rocks or broken con-
crete blocks; cover the top with wood
slats or heavy roofing paper The
well's top should be at least 18 inches
below ground level; the bottom should
be above the water table.
Underground drainage pipes,
sloped 1/2 inch per foot, carry water
from the downspouts on the house to
the dry well.
IMPROVING DOWNSPOUT DRAINAGE
Most chimneys are built of brick and
lined with fireproof flue tiles. A cap of
mortar seals the top against the
weather.
A chimney that's used regularly
must be cleaned and inspected at least
once a year. Using a strong flashlight,
check inside the chimney for soot
buildup and any obstructions, such as
birds' nests or leaves. Also check the
flue tiles for cracks or missing mortar.
On the chimney's exterior, look for
crumbling mortar between bricks and
at the cap, loose or missing bricks, or
flashing that has corroded or pulled
away from the chimney; all can cause
chimney leaks.
To clean the chimney or make mi-
nor repairs, see below. If the chimney is
leaning, if a number of bricks are miss-
ing, or if the flue needs repair, consult a
professional.
Cleaning a chimney. Clean your
chimney regularly since built-up soot
and creosote may cause a chimney fire
and will restrict the draft, making your
fireplace or wood stove inefficient.
You may want to hire a chimney
sweep to do this messy job. If you do it
yourself, first cover the fireplace open-
ing with newspaper and protect nearby
furniture, carpets, and draperies. Wear
a dust mask and goggles.
Use a good steel chimney-
sweeping brush to clean the chimney
from up on the roof. Attach the brush to
a rope at least the length of the flue and
chimney and attach weights to the end
of the brush. Pass the brush repeatedly
down to the flue bottom and up again
until the brush no longer brings up
large amounts of soot and creosote.
Using a heavy-duty not a household,
vacuum, clean out the fireplace.
Brushes and weights are available
from home improvement centers and
wood stove dealers. You also can buy
fiberglass rods that attach to the brush;
they're useful for cleaning long hori-
zontal runs of stovepipe or for cleaning
a chimney from below.
Repairing a chimney. To repair a
cracked or crumbling cap, see the illus-
trations below. Replace mortar around
chimney bricks as you would for brick
veneer (page 47). For instructions on
making repairs to chimney flashing,
see page 35.
CONTROLLING ICE & SNOW ON YOUR ROOF
Winter storms can wreak havoc on
your roof. Ice dams that form at the
eaves can result in leaks; snow can
slide off the roof in a mini-avalanche,
carrying roofing material and gutters
with it. You can prevent most prob-
lems by keeping your gutters clean
and by installing one of the devices
described below.
Ice dams
Ice dams (see illustration below) form-
ing at the eaves can cause water from
melting snow to back up under the
shingles and leak into the house. Ice
dams can result from alternate thaw-
ing and freezing of the snow on the
roof due to a period of warm days and
cold nights, or from heat loss through
the roof of a poorly insulated and
badly ventilated house, causing the
snow to melt and then, in cold
weather, freeze again in the colder
eave area.
downspouts) and are plugged into a
weatherproof electrical outlet. When
heated, they create miniature drain-
age channels for water that otherwise
would back up behind an ice dam or
freeze inside downspouts.
Look for de-icing tapes at home
improvement centers or roofing sup-
ply companies. To install them, follow
the manufacturer's instructions.
Eave reinforcement. For extra pro-
tection on a section of roof where ice
dams often form, you can reinforce
the eave area by installing a sheet of
roll roofing or roofing felt under the
shingles so it extends 12 inches in-
side the wall line. (This is best done
when a new roof is being installed; If
you're not reroofing, you'll have to re-
move and replace several courses of
shingles.)
Each type of roofing requires a
particular treatment; check your local
building code for the material best
suited to your roof.
Snow buildup
Snow tends to slide off roofs like
an avalanche, tearing gutters from
their fastenings, ripping away roofing
materials, and smashing plants or
objects below.
To help hold snow in place, attach
metal snow guards in staggered rows
over the roof. You'll find several styles
(see below for one type), including
long, narrow ones for use over door-
ways.
Fans and soffit vents. To prevent ice
dams resulting from poor ventilation,
Install an attic fan (page 185) and soffit
vents (see below). They vent warm at-
tic air that might otherwise melt the
snow on the roof. Soffit vents come in
a variety of styles. Follow the manu-
facturer's Instructions to install them.
De-icing tapes. Electrically heated
cables installed along roof eaves and
In gutters and downspouts, de-icing
tapes (shown at top right) facilitate
proper drainage of melting snow and
ice, and help prevent ice dams.
These tapes, insulated for safety,
are clipped to the shingles in a zigzag
pattern (or run along gutters and
The number of snow guards you
install depends on your roof's slope.
Generally, for every 100 square feet of
roof, you'll need 50 guards on a roof
with a 6 In 12 slope, 75 guards for an 8
in 12 slope, and 125 guards for a 12 in
12 slope.
Whether it's made from wood, alumi-
num, vinyl, masonry, or stucco, the ex-
terior wall covering on your house is
called siding. In addition to its deco-
rative role, siding gives strength to
exterior walls and acts as a moisture
barrier and insulator, protecting your
house from the elements.
Siding may be plagued by a vari-
ety of ills—from obvious problems like
peeling paint to less obvious insect in-
festation and dry rot. Many problems
can be remedied if caught early on;
regular inspection and maintenance
(see facing page) are crucial. When the
damage is already done, you can re-
pair or replace siding; directions ap-
pear on pages 42-49.
Siding comprises only one layer of the
exterior wall of a house. It's important to
understand the entire wall structure if
you're repairing or replacing siding.
Anatomy of a wall
Wood frame walls are usually con-
structed from 2 by 6 or 2 by 4 studs (see
at right). Any insulation is placed be-
tween the studs, which are then cov-
ered with sheathing.
If the walls are to be finished with
wood, aluminum, or vinyl siding, or
with masonry veneer, the sheathing
is covered with building paper. Then
the siding is nailed on or, for masonry
walls, a veneer of brick or stone is ap-
plied. Each course, or tier, of bricks or
stones is attached to the underlayment
with short metal strips called ties. The
bricks or stones are mortared in place.
For stucco siding, wire mesh is
nailed directly to sheathing covered
with building paper, or the mesh is
nailed to spacer strips as shown at
right. The stucco is applied over the
wire mesh in three layers.
Types of siding
Residential siding falls into one of three
categories: wood, masonry or manu-
factured. Each has its own particular
problems; repair and replacement
methods depend on the type of siding
you have. If you need to replace dam-
aged siding, note the style, finish, and
dimensions of the existing siding so
you can find an exact match.
Wood siding. This category includes
board siding as well as shingles and
shakes. Board siding, available in
many types of wood and milled in a
variety of patterns (page 44), can be
installed vertically horizontally or even
diagonally Shingles and shakes are
also available in a number of patterns.
With regular maintenance, wood siding
should last from 30 years to the life of
the house.
Masonry siding. Grouped under ma-
sonry siding are stucco, brick, and
stone.
Stucco is a cement-base plaster.
You can either add pigment to the last
coat or paint it when it's dry The fin-
ish coat can be tooled in a number of
textures.
Brick walls may be laid in one of
several patterns; the bricks themselves
come in a wide variety of sizes, colors.
and textures. Stone veneer can also be
laid in a variety of patterns. Mortar—a
mixture of cement, sand, lime, and
water—holds the bricks or stones
together
Masonry siding is practically im-
pervious to weather and should last the
life of the house.
Manufactured siding. 'Vinyl and alu-
minum siding panels are applied either
horizontally or vertically; they usually
come with trim pieces into which the
panels are fitted. Vinyl siding is avail-
able in white and pastel colors; smooth
and wood-grain textures are typical.
Aluminum panels come in a wide range
of factory-applied colors and textures.
With regular maintenance, both will last
from 40 years to the life of the house.
With routine maintenance, your siding
should last for years. To keep your
house looking its best, inspect your
siding for damage in the spring
and autumn, make any needed re-
pairs promptly and clean and repaint
regularly
Inspecting your siding. Look for
obvious problems such as warped
boards, missing or damaged shingles,
holes in stucco, crumbling mortar,
cracks, and defective paint. Don't ig-
nore less obvious interior problems
such as dry rot and termite damage;
these can eventually destroy your
house.
Begin with a visual inspection: the
drawing at right indicates vulnerable
areas. When you make your actual in-
spection, let the following list of prob-
lems and solutions guide you:
« Deteriorated caulking. Make a note
of any caulking that has dried out
and renew the seals (page 49).
Check the seals around windows
and doors, around protrusions, and
where a deck or masonry fireplace
adjoins the house. Caulk any cracks
in board siding.
• Defective paint. Often, repainting
the defective area is all that's
needed. To treat minor paint prob-
lems, see page 42. If necessary re-
paint all the siding.
• Cracks. Long, vertical cracks in ma-
sonry walls may indicate settling.
Place tape over a crack and leave it
in place for several months. If the
tape twists or splits, consult a profes-
sional to determine if there's a seri-
ous structural problem; otherwise,
repair the cracks (pages 46-47).
• Mildew. Combined heat and hu-
midity may mildew wood and
painted surfaces. To retard mildew,
see the cleaning tips below.
• Efflorescence. Brick or stone ve-
neer may become covered with a
white powder called efflorescence,
formed when water-soluble salts are
washed to the surface. In an old wall.
this may indicate a leak that should
be fixed. Cleaning the siding (see
below) will remove efflorescence.
• Dry rot and termite damage. Dry rot
is a fungus that causes wood to
crumble; termites destroy wood by
chewing out its interior. Both can
work away at wood timbers and sid-
ing so inconspicuously that they can
easily escape your notice.
To detect damage, probe the
edges of wood siding with a knife
and look for soft, spongy spots. Pay
special attention to any part of the
siding that's close to or in contact
with the ground, even indirectly
Check for visible evidence of ter-
mites; look for their translucent,
1/2-inch-long wings or the mud tubes
they sometimes build (usually visible
from under the house). If you find evi-
dence of dry rot or termites, consult a
licensed termite inspector or pest
control professional.
Cleaning your siding. To keep siding
in good shape, hose it down and, if
necessary brush it with a carwash
brush that attaches to a hose.
Hose down vinyl panels and
sponge them with a mild liquid de-
tergent.
If brick or stone veneer suffers
from efflorescence, scrub the siding,
one small area at a time, with a mild
solution of muriatic acid (one part acid
to ten parts water) and rinse the wall
well with clear water.
You can retard the growth of mil-
dew by washing the siding with a solu-
tion of 1/3 cup detergent, 2/3 cup tri-
sodium phosphate, and 1 quart
household bleach in 3 gallons of water.
Brush or sponge the walls, then rinse.
CAUTION: When working with this
solution or with muriatic acid, wear
goggles and gloves, and cover your
plants with a plastic tarp.
After cleaning the siding, repair
any caulking (page 49) and paint or
stain any areas that are chipped or
peeling (page 42). Wood siding is es-
pecially vulnerable to rot when the fin-
ish deteriorates.
Paint damage on exterior wood sur-
faces can result from any of a number
of causes. Before you repaint, try to
diagnose the cause of the problem so
your repair will be lasting. Then you
can prepare the surface, select an ap-
propriate paint or stain, and apply the
finish, as explained below.
Diagnosing paint problems. Typical
causes of paint damage include im-
proper surface preparation, careless
painting, use of the wrong paint, and
structural problems that trap moisture
in the wood. Common paint problems
and their causes are described below.
• Blistering. Blisters appear in paint
when water or solvent vapor is
trapped under the paint. Cut the
blister open. If you find bare wood
underneath, it's a water blister
created by moisture escaping from
damp wood. If you find paint, it's
a solvent blister, often caused
by painting in direct sunlight or on
wet wood.
• Peeling. Paint peels and curls
away from wood when it's applied
over dirty, greasy, or wet wood, or
over loose paint.
• Alligatoring. A checkered pattern
of cracks resembling alligator
skin results when the top coat is
applied before the bottom coat is
dry or when the paints in the bottom
and top coats are incompatible.
• Wrinkling. Wrinkles in paint are the
result of careless painting. If paint
is applied too thickly, the top sur-
face dries too rapidly and the paint
underneath droops down.
• Chalking. High-quality exterior
paint is designed to chalk so rain
will clean dirt from the surface. But
chalking that comes off when you
rub up against the surface indi-
cates that the surface was un-
primed or finished with paint of
poor quality.
Preparing the surface. Wood sur-
faces must be clean, dry, and in
good condition before you repaint.
Repair any damaged boards, trim, or
shingles and fix any structural dam-
age that allows water to penetrate.
Remove dirt and all loose, peel-
ing, or blistering paint with a stiff wire
brush or paint scraper. Where paint
damage is severe, remove the paint
down to the bare wood. Feather the
edges of any remaining sound paint
with medium-grade sandpaper, then
sand again with fine-grade sand-
paper. If the top coat didn't adhere to a
previous coat, rough up the damaged
paint with sandpaper.
Wash greasy or very dirty wood
with a mild detergent, hose it off, and
let the wood dry before painting.
If moisture is causing paint dam-
age, apply a water repellent, prime
with an oil-base prime coat, and cover
with two coats of high-quality paint
after you've prepared the surface.
Applying the finish. Apply a clear
waterproofing sealer to the ends of all
wood boards to prevent water pene-
tration. Brush a prime coat on bare or
new wood. Where heat and humidity
cause wood to deteriorate quickly,
treat boards with a wood preservative
before sealing.
With the exception of redwood,
cedar, and southern red cypress
(which should be sealed to help retard
color changes), wood needs to be
painted or stained to protect it from
the elements. Use a finish that
matches the existing one as closely
as possible. A 2-inch brush for trim
and a 4-inch brush for wider surfaces
are usually best. For a larger area, you
may want to use a 9-inch roller;
choose a fine nap for smooth surfaces
and a thick nap for textured surfaces.
Exterior painting is best done in
fair, dry weather with temperatures
between 50° and 90°F Wait until the
morning dew has evaporated and
stop painting before evening damp-
ness sets in. Don't paint when condi-
tions are windy or dusty, particularly if
you're using a slow-drying, solvent-
base paint.
Whether it's in the form of boards, shin-
gles, or shakes, wood siding is durable
and, with annual maintenance, should
last the lifetime of the house.
To prevent deterioration of wood
board siding, repair simple surface
problems—holes in the wood, split and
warped wood, and damaged pai nt -
as soon as they appear (see below and
on facing page). Severely damaged
board siding can't be effectively re-
paired; in this case, you'll need to re-
place the affected siding (follow the in-
structions on pages 44-45).
When shingles or shakes are dam-
aged, it's usually best to replace them,
since repairs to these materials are
hard to conceal. Instructions for re-
placement appear on page 45.
Be sure to determine the cause of
any serious damage before replacing
siding. If moisture is causing the prob-
lem, find the source by checking for de-
teriorating roofing (page 29), leaking
gutters or downspouts, and poor drain-
age (pages 36-37). Consult a profes-
sional if you can't locate the source of
the leak. Once you pinpoint the prob-
lem, be sure to make the necessary re-
pairs; new siding installed over prob-
lem areas will just deteriorate again
after a short time.
If after removing damaged sid-
ing you see evidence of dry rot or
insect infestation (page 41), call in a
professional.
Damage to wood board siding can
often be repaired inconspicuously Re-
pairs usually involve filling holes, fixing
split or warped boards, and repainting.
Siding that's badly damaged should
be replaced (pages 44-45).
Repairing holes. Small holes in wood
board siding can be filled with wood
putty available at lumber and paint
stores. The putty comes in a variety of
shades for matching lightly stained
wood.
To conceal a small hole, fill it with
wood putty and allow the putty to dry
completely If the hole is fairly large, ap-
ply the putty in layers, letting each one
dry completely before applying the
next. When the final layer is dry sand
the surface smooth. Then finish the
putty to match the surrounding siding
(unless you've used putty in a shade
that matches the exterior).
Repairing split boards. A clean split
or crack can be repaired by prying the
board apart and coating both edges
with waterproof glue, as shown at right.
Then either nail or screw the board
back into position or, for a less visible
repair, drive a row of temporary nails
just under the lower edge of the board
and bend them up over the edge to
hold the board in place. Remove the
nails once the glue has set.
Repairing warped boards. Warped
or buckled boards usually show up
where boards have been fitted too
tightly during installation. If a board has
nowhere to expand when it swells with
moisture, it warps or buckles.
To straighten a warped or buckled
board, first try to pull it into line by driv-
ing long screws through it and into the
wall studs. Use a portable electric drill
to drill pilot holes and countersinks for
the screws (page 15), then insert the
screws and tighten them. Cover the
screw holes with wood putty; then sand
and finish as you would after repairing
holes in siding.
If that doesn't work, you'll have to
shorten the board to give it more room.
Pull out the nails within the warped area
or cut them with a hacksaw blade. Con-
tinue removing nails to the nearest end
of the board. Pull the end of the board
outward; then file it with a rasp, sand
with sandpaper, or use a block plane to
remove wood on the end little by little
until the board fits. Renail the board.
Fixing paint problems. Paint prob-
lems can result from a variety of
causes: wrong paint, improper surface
preparation before painting, careless
painting, harsh sunlight over a long
period of time, or improper wall venti-
lation. Except in the last case, the prob-
lem can be remedied with a proper
paint job (see facing page).
Ventilation depends on your cli-
mate and the presence or absence of a
vapor barrier. Increasing the amount of
ventilation may involve adding vents to
the roof, gables, and soffits (page 39)
or installing a fan (page 185). Check
your local building code for the recom-
mended ventilation for your home.
Sometimes, a board is so badly dam-
aged or decayed that your only choice
is to replace it. Similarly a shingle or
shake that's damaged should be re-
placed rather than repaired.
Replacing boards
The approach to replacing board sid-
ing depends on the milling of the
boards (common types are shown be-
low) and how they're nailed. Often, the
trickiest part of the job is finding a re-
placement that matches the original.
No matter what type of siding
you're replacing, you'll have to cut the
damaged piece and remove the nails
in order to pry it out. After repairing any
damage to the building paper with roof-
ing cement, you'll need to carefully
measure and cut the new piece so it will
fit correctly For best results, cut out and
replace a section that spans at least
three studs. Use a carpenter's square
when marking cutting lines to keep
them at right angles. Pull nails out of the
old siding with a nail claw or nail puller,
or cut off nail heads with a hacksaw
blade.
Tongue-and-groove siding. Be-
cause the boards are locked together
by the tongues and grooves, the dam-
aged piece must be split lengthwise as
well as cut at the ends, as shown below,
before it can be removed.
It's easiest to make the cuts with a
circular saw; set the blade depth just
shy of the thickness of the siding. Saw
almost to each edge, holding the blade
guard back and dipping the moving
blade down into the wood to start each
cut. Hold the saw firmly—it may kick
back. Also, be careful not to cut into ad-
jacent boards.
Overlapping styles of siding. Clap-
board, bevel, Dolly Varden, shiplap,
channel rustic, and other overlapping
styles (bottom left) are face nailed to
studs or sheathing. Though the boards
overlap, you can replace a damaged
piece without removing other boards
(you may need to pry up the board
above the one you're replacing to free
the last pieces of damaged board). To
replace all types of overlapping siding,
follow the directions for replacing clap-
board siding illustrated below.
To provide a solid nailing base for
the replacement board, center the end
cuts over studs, if possible. You can use
a back saw to cut clapboard, bevel,
and Dolly Varden siding; make the cuts
in shiplap and channel rustic siding
with a circular saw, as described under
"Tongue-and-groove siding," facing
page. If nails are in the way of your saw
cuts, pull them out.
Board-and-batten siding. To remove
board-and-batten siding, pry up the
battens on either side of the damaged
board far enough to raise the nail
heads, then pull out the nails. Repeat
this process until you're able to remove
the damaged board.
Patch any cuts or tears in the build-
ing paper with roofing cement. Re-
place the damaged board and batten
with identically sized new ones. Seal all
joints with caulking compound; then
stain or paint.
Replacing shingles & shakes
When a shingle or shake splits, curls,
warps, or breaks, you'll have to take it
out and replace it. The replacement
technique depends on whether the
shingles or shakes are applied in single
or double courses (rows).
In a single-course application,
each course overlaps the one below by
at least half a shingle or shake length.
The nails are concealed under the shin-
gles or shakes of the course above. Re-
placement procedures are the same as
for a shingle or shake roof (page 32).
Double-coursing calls for two
complete layers of shingles or shakes.
Here, the nail heads are exposed. To
replace a damaged shingle or shake,
simply pull out the nails, remove the
damaged piece, slide in a replace-
ment, and nail.
stucco walls typically consist of three
layers of stucco applied over wood
spacers and wire mesh. The final coat
is either pigmented or painted and can
be textured in a variety of ways.
Cracks and holes in stucco can
result from several causes, including
poor-quality or poorly applied stucco
and settling. To protect your house from
moisture damage, repair damaged
stucco right away
The keys to a successful repair job
are slow curing of the patched stucco
and careful matching of the color and
texture of the patch to the existing wall.
To match color, you can either add pig-
ment to the final coat of stucco or paint
the patch later on. Texturing is done
with floats, trowels, or brushes.
Following are directions for repair-
ing cracks, small holes, and large
holes.
Cracks. You can cover hairline and
small cracks with a coat of latex paint or
fill them with latex caulking compound
and then paint with latex paint.
To fix larger cracks, use a cold
chisel and ball peen hammer to under-
cut the edges of the crack in the form of
an inverted V (use the same technique
as for interior plastered walls, pages
90-91). Then brush away loose stucco
and dust with a stiff brush and dampen
the crack with a fine spray of water.
With a mason's trowel or putty
knife, fill the crack with stucco patching
compound (available at home improve-
ment centers), packing it in tightly; tex-
ture to match the surrounding stucco
(see text at right). Cure the stucco by
dampening it once or twice a day for
about 4 days.
Small holes. To repair a hole up to
about 6 inches wide, first remove loose
stucco with a cold chisel and ball peen
hammer, undercutting the edges as for
a crack, and blow out any dust. If the
wire mesh is damaged, staple In a new
piece. Dampen the patching site with a
fine spray of water and pack the hole
with stucco patching compound, using
a mason's trowel or putty knife. To cure
the stucco, keep it damp for about 4
days.
Large holes. Holes larger than about
6 inches wide should be repaired using
the same methods as for applying new
stucco. You'll need three coats of
stucco—a "scratch" coat, a "brown"
coat, and a final coat that you color and
texture to match the original.
The first and second coats are
made from one part Portland cement,
three parts coarse sand, and 1/10 part
hydrated lime, with enough water to
make a fairly stiff paste. For the final
coat, you use one part Portland ce-
ment, three parts coarse sand, and 1/4
part hydrated lime (use white Portland
cement and sand if you're adding pig-
ment to the stucco).
To apply the stucco (see illustra-
tions below), first prepare the surface
by removing all the loose stucco, un-
dercutting the edges, and adding new
wire mesh if necessary Be sure to
press the first coat well into the mesh for
a good bond. When this coat is firm,
scratch it with a nail to provide grip for
the second coat. Keep the first coat
damp and let it cure for 2 days.
Dampen the area with a fine spray
of water before applying the second
coat and keep the second coat damp
for 2 days.
The final coat, the one you color, if
desired, and texture, should be flush
with the surrounding wall. While it's
wet, texture it to match (you'll have to
experiment a bit). For a smooth texture,
draw a metal float across the surface.
For other textures, daub a sponge or
brush on the surface, or splatter it with
more stucco and smooth down the
high spots. To cure the stucco, keep it
damp for about 4 days. If you plan to
paint it to match the surrounding area,
wait a month after curing.
Brick veneer siding is usually applied to
a wood frame wall over building paper;
the mortared joints may be "tooled," or
finished, in a number of ways, as
shown at right. Properly tooled joints
are essential to ensure strong, water-
tight walls.
Problems with brick veneer. Most
problems develop at the mortar joints.
Sometimes, the mortar shrinks, caus-
ing the joints to open; old-fashioned
lime-base mortar often crumbles.
Freeze-thaw cycles in cold-winter cli-
mates, excess moisture, and settling
also result in mortar problems.
Repointing mortar. To repair cracked
or crumbling mortar, you'll have to re-
move the old mortar and "repoint" the
joints (fill them with new mortar), as
shown below.
Though you can make your own
mortar, it's easier to use dry ready-
mixed mortar (use weather-resistant
type N), available at building supply
stores. Prepare the mortar according to
package directions. When you're filling
the joints, you may want to use a spe-
cial tool called a hawk (illustrated be-
low) to hold the mortar conveniently
close to the job.
Using a jointer, steel rod, or trowel,
tool the new joints to match the existing
ones. Mortar joints should be tooled
when they are "thumbprint hard" (nei-
ther so soft that they smear the wall nor
so hard that a metal tool leaves black
marks). Keep tooled joints damp for 4
days to cure the mortar.
CAUTION: When chipping out old
mortar with a mallet or ball peen ham-
mer and cold chisel, protect your eyes
with goggles.
Both aluminum and vinyl siding panels
have interlocking flanges along both
edges. The panels are nailed to the
sheathing through slots along one
flange; the other flange interlocks with
the adjacent panel. Panels may be
installed vertically or horizontally
You can successfully repair minor
dents, scratches, and corrosion in alu-
minum siding. More extensively dam-
aged aluminum siding or damaged vi-
nyl siding usually can't be repaired;
instead, it must be replaced, as shown
below.
Repairing aluminum siding
To remove a dent in aluminum siding,
drill a hole in the center of the dent and
screw in a self-tapping screw with two
washers under the screw head (the
screw cuts its own thread as it's driven
in). Gently pull on the screw head with a
pair of pliers. Remove the screw and fill
the hole with plastic aluminum filler (fol-
low directions on the tube). When dry
sand the filler smooth and touch up
with matching paint.
Conceal scratches in aluminum
siding by applying metal primer over
the scratch. When the primer is dry
coat with latex house paint.
Repair corrosion by cleaning the
rust off with fine steel wool. Prime the
area with rust-resistant metal primer
and cover with latex paint.
Replacing aluminum siding
If a section of your aluminum siding is
damaged beyond a simple surface re-
pair, you can replace it by cutting out
the damaged part of the panel, leaving
the nailed portion in place (see below).
Use tin snips to cut the new section of
siding (it should overlap the existing
siding by 3 inches on each side); then
install it.
Replacing vinyl siding
If vinyl siding is cracked or punctured,
you must remove the entire damaged
section before you can install a replace-
ment piece. To do this, you'll need a
special tool called a "zipper" to sepa-
rate the interlocked panels. It's best to
do the work during warm weather,
when the vinyl is pliable.
Using the zipper, unlock the panel
adjacent to or above the damaged one
and lift it up to expose the nails secur-
ing the damaged panel. Pry out the
nails. Mark cutting lines on each side of
the damaged area, using a carpenter's
square and pencil. With tin snips or a
back saw, cut the panel along the lines
and remove the damaged section.
Cut a replacement piece 2 inches
longer than the section you just re-
moved to allow for a 1-inch overlap on
each end. (Cut only 1 inch longer if the
damaged section ends at a corner or
joint.) Snap the top edge of the new
section in place and nail it with alumi-
num box nails long enough to, pene-
trate 1 inch into the sheathing. Using
the zipper, snap in the other edge.
Caulking compound helps keep air,
moisture, and insects out of your house
and costly heated and cooled air in-
side. But caulking eventually dries out
and requires renewal, so always check
for cracked, loose, or missing caulking
as part of your spring and autumn
maintenance inspections.
The different types of caulking
compound, the areas around your
house that require caulking, and the
application techniques are discussed
below.
Types of caulking. The five basic
types of exterior caulking are elas-
tomers, butyl rubber, acrylic latex, non-
acrylic latex, and oil base. The chart
on page 25 lists the characteristics of
each. When making your choice,
weigh price against each compound's
expected lifetime and consider the
kinds of materials to which the caulking
must adhere.
Caulking comes in four forms: as
disposable cartridges for use with a
half-barrel caulking gun, in a can for
application with a full-barrel caulk-
ing gun or a putty knife, in a small
squeeze tube, and as rope caulk. The
half-barrel caulking gun fitted with a
cartridge is the most popular dis-
penser, since it's the easiest to use for
applying an even bead of compound.
Use rope caulk as a temporary filler for
very wide cracks or joints—it may not
adhere for very long.
CAUTION: Before you buy any
caulking, read the label; Some types
won't work in cracks or joints less than
1/4 inch wide; others work well only in
narrow cracks. Take note of any pre-
cautions and follow the directions when
you're using the product.
Where to caulk. Generally you'll need
to caulk in areas where different sur-
faces meet. Here are some of the
places requiring caulking:
• On the roof where one flashing
meets another flashing, between
flashing and a roof or dormer sur-
face, and where a chimney flue,
plumbing or electrical pipe, attic fan,
or skylight protrudes through the
roof surface.
• On the siding where the siding and
.trim meet at corners; around window
and door frames; between badly fit-
ting pieces of siding; where pipes,
framing members, and other pro-
trusions pass through the siding;
and where the siding meets the foun-
dation, patio or deck, or any other
different part of the house.
It's also a good idea to examine
interior window and door frames, es-
pecially between sliding door or win-
dow tracks and the sill or jamb.
Applying caulking. Before you can
apply new caulking, you'll have to re-
move the old or damaged sections.
First, dig out or chip off all of the old
caulking with a putty knife, old screw-
driver, or scraper. Then brush the area
with a wire brush to remove debris and
wipe the surface with a cloth soaked in
the appropriate solvent for the type of
caulking you're removing.
Before applying the new caulking,
check the label to see if you need to
prime the surface. Plan to caulk on a
warm, dry day when the temperature
is between 50° and 70°F In hotter
weather, refrigerate the caulking for an
hour or two before use so the com-
pound won't run.
Directions for using a half-barrel
caulking gun appear below. It may take
a bit of practice to get the bead of caulk-
ing to flow evenly Start by holding the
gun at a 45°angle to the surface; then,
moving the gun across the surface,
squeeze the trigger to keep the caulk-
ing flowing smoothly Make sure the
compound fills the crack completely
and overlaps adjoining surfaces evenly
If the crack is deep, apply two beads.
If you're using rope caulk, simply
unroll the amount you need and use
your fingers to stuff it into the crack.
The most common basement prob-
lem a homeowner faces is water. The
problem can range In seriousness
from damp walls and floors to water
gushing out of a crack. The source
may be simply humid air condensing
on cool surfaces or ground water find-
ing its way through your basement's
walls or floor. Before you can correct
the problem, you'll need to determine
the source of the water.
Where's the water coming from? If
you can see water flowing out of a
crack in a wall or floor, you know that
the source is ground water. In the
absence of such obvious evidence,
you'll have to make a test to deter-
mine whether the dampness In your
basement is caused by condensation
or water from the ground.
Cut two 12-inch squares of plastic
sheeting or aluminum foil. Tape one to
the inside of an outside wall and one
to the basement floor (make sure the
surfaces are thoroughly dry). After
two or three days, remove the plastic
or foil and examine the surface that
was next to the wall or floor. If it's dry,
the culprit is condensation; if it's wet,
it's a sign that ground water is seep-
ing through the wall or floor.
Reducing condensation
When the basement air is humid, the
moisture in the air may condense on
cool surfaces, such as cold water
pipes, concrete or masonry walls, or a
concrete floor.
Though you can apply a coating
(see facing page) to reduce conden-
sation, it's best to lower the air's
humidity, using these suggestions:
• Improve ventilation by opening
basement windows or installing
an exhaust fan (page 185) In the
basement.
• Raise the temperature in the
basement.
• Vent moist air from a clothes dryer
to the outside.
• Install a dehumidifier in the base-
ment area.
• Insulate cold water pipes and
basement walls.
Controlling ground water
When water collects next to a founda-
tion wall or when the water table (the
water level under your property) is
higher than your basement floor,
hydrostatic pressure can force water
through joints, cracks, and porous
areas in concrete walls and floors and
through cracked or crumbling mortar
joints in masonry walls. Poor con-
struction practices—clogged or non-
existent footing drains, poorly applied
or nonexistent waterproofing on the
foundation, through-the-wall cracks,
and improper grading—often are the
cause.
Correcting any of these problems
is a major job that requires digging
out the foundation to the bottom of
the footings. Though this may well be
the most permanent repair, first try
the remedies that follow. If they don't
work, then you'll have to contact a
foundation engineer or contractor for
a more lasting solution.
CAUTION: If you see horizontal
cracks in a wall that's bowing inward,
long, vertical cracks wider than 1/4
inch, or a crack that's getting wider
(measure it periodically), you have a
structural problem. Contact a soils or
foundation engineer at once.
Exterior remedies. Roof and surface
water collecting next to the foundation
may be causing the dampness in your
basement. Make a careful inspection
outside, using the following checklist,
and correct any problems you find.
• Gutters and downspouts should
be clear and should direct water
away from the foundation. To clean
gutters and improve drainage at
downspouts, see pages 36-37.
• Proper grading around the
house—the ground should drop 1
inch per foot for the first 10 feet
away from the foundation walls—is
essential to ensure good surface
drainage.
• Planting beds next to the founda-
tion should not allow water to col-
lect or pool there.
• Window wells around basement
windows should be free of debris,
have good drainage, and be prop-
erly sealed at the wall.
Interior remedies. These simple inte-
rior repairs may alleviate or cure your
water problems:
• Apply a coating to the wall. Most
coatings are painted on, though
some are plastered on with a
trowel. Except for epoxy coatings,
all are cement-base products with
various additives. Epoxy does the
best job. Look for coatings at home
improvement or masonry supply
centers.
• Patch cracks in walls and floors
with Portland or hydraulic cement
patching compound. Hydraulic ce-
ment expands and dries quickly,
even in wet conditions. Cracks
wider than 1/8 inch should be
undercut— chiseled out so the bot-
tom of the crack is wider than the
top (see illustration at top left). This
will prevent water pressure from
popping out the patch.
• Chisel out a groove along the
wall if water is entering through a
floor/wall joint. Fill the groove with
hydraulic or epoxy cement and
cove (form in a concave shape) as
shown below.
• Chisel out cracked mortar joints
in masonry walls and fill them with
hydraulic or epoxy cement.
Water that comes through cracks
in a concrete floor or through the joint
between the floor and wall is caused
by hydrostatic pressure. In addition to
those described above, remedies in-
clude installing drains under the floor,
adding a sump pump, or laying a new
floor over a waterproof membrane
placed on the old floor—all jobs for
professionals.
A double-hung window consists of two
sashes: an upper, outside sash that
moves down and a lower, inside one
that moves up. A pulley and weight sys-
tem or balances located in the jambs
control the movement of the sashes.
Double-hung windows may be made
from wood, aluminum, or vinyl.
As a wood window sash ages, it
may begin to misfit its frame, or the sys-
tem controlling sash movement may
break down. Some common window
problems and their solutions are dis-
cussed below. Instructions for re-
moving wood sashes and replacing a
window's balance system appear on
pages 56-57.
Metal and vinyl windows seldom
require repairs. To keep them oper-
ating smoothly occasionally clean the
channels with very fine steel wool and
coat them with silicone spray
Correcting ill-fitting sashes
Wood double-hung window sashes that
don't fit or don't move correctly are
annoying. Often, a simple sash or stop
repair can restore the window to good
working order. If none of the simple re-
pairs described below works, you'll
need to remove and reposition the
stops (see facing page).
Freeing a stuck ( sash. If a sash is
temporarily stuck because moisture
has swelled the wood, a change of
weather may correct it. For a sash
that's paint-bound, use one of the
methods shown on the facing page.
Freeing a tight sash. If a sash
moves reluctantly the sash channels
may need to be cleaned and lubricated
or even widened (see facing page). If
the sash itself is too wide, you may
need to sand it down or, in severe
cases, plane it (pages 70-71).
Correcting a loose sash. A sash
that rattles and lets in unwanted air is
too loose. Often, installing spring-type
weatherstripping can correct the prob-
lem (page 64).
If the gap isn't too wide and the
stop is nailed rather than screwed, you
can move the stop slightly without actu-
ally removing it. Score the paint be-
tween the stop and jamb and place a
cardboard shim between the stop and
sash. Holding a block of wood against
the stop to protect it, hammer toward
the sash along the length of the stop
until the paint breaks and the stop rests
against the shim. Secure the stop with
finishing nails.
If you need to remove and re-
position the stop to correct a wide gap,
see the instructions on the facing page.
Tightening sash joints. If a sash's
joints are loose, you'll have to remove
the sash from the frame (page 56).
Clean the joints; then repair the frame
as shown on page 62.
Repairing window balance
systems
If a sash refuses to remain open or
closed, or if it jams in one position, re-
pair or replace the balance system.
Your windows may have a tradi-
tional weight and pulley balance sys-
tem like that shown above, or a more
modern spiral-lift, tension-spring, or
cord balance system (page 57). In-
structions for repairing and replacing
balances appear on pages 56-57.
When a window's balance system is
broken, the window will not remain
open or closed. The repair depends on
the type of system—pulley and weight,
spiral-lift, tension-spring, or c or d-
used in the window.
To repair or replace a balance sys-
tem, you'll have to remove one or both
sashes (see below). If just the lower
sash is affected, remove only that one.
If the repair involves the upper sash,
remove both. Be sure to take off any
interlocking weatherstripping before
removing the sash.
Pulley & weight system
Pulleys and weights traditionally oper-
ate double-hung windows. The weights
are suspended on cords or chains
located behind the side jambs.
If you're replacing a broken cord,
it's a good idea to replace all the cords
in the window at the same time, prefer-
ably with long-lasting chains, as shown
below. To replace a defective chain, fol-
low the instructions for cords. Before
detaching the old chain, be sure to im-
mobilize the weights on each side by
drawing up the chains until the weights
touch the pulleys. Slide a nail through a
link at each pulley to hold the chains
in place; then detach the chains from
the sash.
Once the new chains are in place,
replace the upper sash, parting strips,
access plates, bottom sash, and stops,
in that order, checking the operation of
each sash as you go.
Spiral-lift system
In a spiral-lift balance system, a spring-
loaded spiral rod encased in a tube
rests in a channel in the side of the stile.
The top of the tube is screwed to the
side jamb; the rod is attached to a
mounting bracket on the bottom of the
sash (see illustration below). Each sash
has two such units.
Adjusting the tension. With a spiral-
lift balance, adjusting the spring ten-
sion may be all that's needed to make
the window operate properly If the sash
tends to creep up, loosen the spring by
detaching the tube from the sash chan-
nel and letting the spring unwind a bit. If
the sash keeps sliding down, turn the
rod clockwise a few times to tighten the
spring. If this doesn't help, you'll need
to replace the unit.
Replacing the unit. To remove a
broken balance, pry off the stop on the
affected side (page 55) and unscrew
the tube where it's fastened to the top
of the side jamb. Let the spring unwind;
then raise the sash 6 to 8 inches and
angle it out of the frame. If the rod is
attached to the bottom of the sash with
a detachable hook, unhook it; support
the sash in a raised position with a
wood block, and unscrew and remove
the mounting bracket.
Position a new tube in the channel
and screw it into the top of the side
jamb. Pull the spiral rod down as far as
it will go and turn it clockwise about four
complete turns to tighten the spring.
Let the rod retract into the tube far
enough so you can fasten the mount-
ing bracket to the bottom of the sash.
Replace the sash.
Check the movement of the sash
by sliding it up and down, and adjust
the tension as described at left. Once
the window is operating properly re-
position the stop (page 55).
Tension-spring & cord systems
In a tension-spring balance system,
each sash is operated by two balance
units with spring-loaded drums inside;
the units fit into the side jamb near
the top. A flexible metal tape hooks
onto a bracket screwed into a groove in
the sash.
A cord balance system, not shown
here, is a variation of the tension-spring
system. Two spring-loaded reel units fit
into each corner of the top jamb. Nylon
cords connect the units to each sash;
plastic top and side jamb liners conceal
the working parts.
Replacing the unit. If any part of a
tension-spring or cord balance system
breaks, you'll have to remove the unit
and install a new one.
To remove a tension-spring unit,
remove the stop on the affected side
(page 55) and ease out the sash. Un-
hook the tape from the bracket and let it
wind back on the drum. Remove the
screws from the drum plate and pry the
unit out of the jamb pocket.
Insert the new balance into the
jamb pocket and secure it with wood
screws. Using needlenose pliers, pull
the tape down and hook the end to the
bracket on the sash. Replace the sash,
check its operation, and reposition the
stop (page 55).
A cord balance unit is replaced in
the same way as a tension-spring unit.
You'll need to remove the jamb liners in
order to remove the sash and then pry
out the balance unit from the top jamb.
A casement window, whether made
from wood or metal, has a sash hinged
at the side and is operated either by a
sliding rod (usually found in older win-
dows) or by a crank and gear mech-
anism. A window made from metal
seldom experiences problems if the
hinges, latch, and window operator are
lubricated regularly Problems that can
develop include a faulty window oper-
ator and, with a window made from
wood, a binding or warped sash.
Repairing a faulty
window operator
You can prevent most window operator
problems with a simple maintenance
routine. Occasionally clean the mech-
anism and lubricate with paraffin, a few
drops of light penetrating oil, or silicone
spray If a casement window resists
opening or closing, use one of the
methods below to get it in working
order again.
Sliding rod mechanism. Look for
hardened grease or paint on the sliding
rod. Cleaning and lubricating the rod,
channel (if any), and pivot points,
as shown below, usually solves the
problem.
Crank and gear mechanism. First
try cleaning and lubricating the exten-
sion-arm track (see below).
If the window still doesn't operate
properly, check the gear assembly in
the crank mechanism. To do this, you'll
have to unfasten and remove the oper-
ator. Open the window partially and re-
move the screws that hold the operator
to the frame. Slide the extension arm
toward you along the track until it slips
free. Then pull the extension arm in
through the window frame.
Inspect the gears; if the teeth are
worn, replace the unit with an exact du-
plicate that cranks in the same direction
as the old one.
If the gear teeth are still sharp but
are clogged with dirt, remove any dirt
or grease with a piece of stiff wire or
clean the assembly with a solvent, such
as kerosene. Let it dry Lubricate metal
gears with graphite powder, silicone, or
petroleum jelly; then turn the crank
several times to spread the lubricant.
Use silicone spray on nylon gears. If
the gears still malfunction, replace the
entire assembly with a duplicate.
Correcting a binding sash
If a sash sags or sticks, adjust the
hinges as for a door (page 69).
To fix a paint-bound sash, scrape
away any excess paint and sand the
surface smooth. If a wood sash has
swollen, sand the part that's rubbing. If
the stop has swollen, remove it, sand as
necessary and reposition it (page 55).
Seal and refinish any bare wood after
sanding.
A mild warp in a sash made from
wood can be compensated for by
adjusting the stops (page 55) or by
adding weatherstripping (page 64).
Sliding window sashes move along
metal, wood, or vinyl tracks fitted into
the window frame at the top and bot-
tom. To ease their movement, large
sashes often have plastic rollers at-
tached to the top and bottom, or to the
bottom only.
Paint sealing the sash to the frame,
a dirty or bent track, or sticking rollers
can cause the sash to stick or bind. The
window can jam or not close properly if
its catch is bent, loose, or damaged.
Freeing a paint-bound sash. If a
sash is clogged with paint, score the
edges with a sharp utility knife, then
rock the sash from side to side to
loosen it. Clean any dirt from the sides
of the sash and the frame, and lubricate
both with paraffin.
Cleaning and repairing a track
Use a wire brush to clean dirt from the
track; for stubborn particles, use the
blade of a screwdriver. Lubricate the
track with paraffin to keep the sash
movement smooth.
Repair a bent track using the
method shown below. You may need to
remove the sash from the track before
making the repair
If the rollers are sticking, lubricate
them with graphite powder or silicone
spray until they move freely If they're
broken, you'll need to remove the sash
(see below) and have a glazier replace
the rollers.
Repairing a catch. Sliding windows
are secured with a variety of catches;
the type used depends on the manu-
facturer and whether the windows are
made from metal or wood. If the catch
doesn't work properly you may need to
remove the sash from the frame (see
below) to fix it.
You may be able to reshape a bent
catch. First note how much it will have
to be reshaped. Then remove the catch
and clamp it in a vise. Using pliers or a
hammer, bend the catch to the proper
angle. Replace it and check the latch
operation—it should click as the win-
dow closes, and it should have to be
depressed fully for the window
to open.
Usually the best solution is to re-
place a malfunctioning catch or one
that is worn or broken with an exact
duplicate.
Replacing a pane—especially a small
one—in a window sash isn't difficult.
After carefully removing the old glass
and measuring the opening, you can
either cut new glass to size yourself or
have it done. Install it in the same way
the original glass was installed.
CAUTION: Take care when work-
ing with glass. Wear heavy gloves and
safety goggles if you're removing
shards. Before removing broken glass,
tape newspaper to the inside of the
sash to catch any fragments. Pad glass
with several layers of newspaper when
you're transporting it and dispose of
glass fragments immediately
Wood sashes. In wood sashes, tiny
metal glazier's points and glazing putty
on the outside of the window hold the
glass in the sash.
The steps in reglazing a wood
sash are shown below. After you've re-
moved the glass, you'll need to chisel
out all the old putty If it's hard, soak it
with linseed oil or gently heat it with a
propane torch.
To determine the size for the new
pane, measure the width and height of
the sash opening and subtract 1/8 inch
from each dimension. Measure the
sash at several points to allow for its be-
ing out of square.
NOTE: Since wood sashes are re-
puttied from the outside, you may have
to remove an upper-story window or
get up on a ladder to reglaze it.
Metal sashes. In windows with metal
sashes, glass may be held in place in
several ways. Metal casement win-
dows (page 58) may use putty or a
combination of putty and metal spring
clips. Glass in these windows is re-
placed in much the same way as for
wood sashes. In other windows, the
glass is secured with rubber seals, a
rubber gasket, or beveled metal or
plastic snap-out moldings.
Window sills bear the brunt of snow,
rain, and sun. Though they're de-
signed to be tough, it's no wonder they
show signs of wear. Annual main-
tenance—filling cracks with putty
caulking the edges, and repainting sills
regularly—can prolong their life.
To restore a sill that's not badly
damaged, clean out cracked or rotted
wood with a chisel and screwdriver.
Then soak the sill with wood pre-
servative. When dry (about 24 hours),
coat it with linseed oil and let it dry Then
fill in any cracks or holes with wood or
epoxy putty If a crack or hole is very
deep, build up the putty in layers, let-
ting each layer dry completely. Prime
and repaint the sill (for painting tips, see
page 42).
A sill can also be patched with fi-
berglass patching material, which is pli-
able and waterproof. This material con-
ceals holes and cracks but doesn't fill
them, so you may first want to build up
deep cracks with putty Check at a
paint or hardware store for fiberglass
patching material and the tools and in-
structions needed to apply it.
If you're not fussy about looks, you
can cover a badly damaged sill with a
sheet of aluminum painted to match the
wood. First, build up the sill with putty
Cut a paper template that fits the sill top
and wraps underneath it; use the tem-
plate to cut out the aluminum. Caulk the
edges of the sill; then butt one edge of
the aluminum up to the stool and nail it
to the sill. Move a block of wood over
the surface, tapping it with a hammer
to shape the aluminum around and un-
der the sill. Nail the aluminum to the
sill's underside; seal any gaps with
caulking. Clean the aluminum and
paint it.
Below are directions for replacing
a severely damaged sill. Have a new
one milled to match at a lumberyard or
cut one yourself. Buy lumber that's
pressure-treated with a preservative
compatible with the paint or stain you
plan to use.
The window screens and storms in
your home may be the kind you can
remove, or they may be aluminum-
frame combination storm and screen
windows you can leave in place year-
round. The frames may be wood or
metal, the screening metal or fiber-
glass.
With regular maintenance, your
storms and screens should last for
years. Clean screening periodically
with a stiff bristle brush; apply thinned
screen enamel, paint, or varnish to gal-
vanized metal screening. Paint wood
storm and screen frames when neces-
sary to protect them from weathering.
Clean aluminum frames with aluminum
polish or steel wool and coat them with
paste wax.
Mending a frame. If a frame begins to
separate at the corners, you can mend
and reinforce the corners with glue or
with metal reinforcing angles, corru-
gated fasteners, wood screws, or
glued-in wood dowels (see below).
Lay the screen or storm on a flat
surface and clean out the gap in the
joint. If the frame is in good condition
and the joint is clean, simply pour wa-
terproof glue into the joint. Clamp it until
the glue dries.
If the frame is still loose, attach
metal reinforcing angles or corrugated
fasteners at the corners, or fasten with
wood screws.
To reinforce the corners with glue-
coated dowels, clamp together op-
posite frame rails, using a long bar
clamp. Tap the dowel into a predrilled
hole, as shown below.
Repairing or replacing screening. If
the screening has a small hole or tear,
patch it (see below) before the flaw gets
any bigger. You can fix a small hole in
fiberglass screening by gluing a patch
in place.
If the hole or tear is very large, or if
the screening is old and worn, it's best
to replace it (see facing page). To re-
place fiberglass screening in a wood
frame, follow the instructions for replac-
ing metal screening, but cut the screen-
ing with a razor blade and turn the
edges under11/2 inches to form ahem.
If you are replacing fiberglass screen-
ing in an aluminum frame, use a
screen-spline roller to roll both the
screening and the spline into the chan-
nel in one operation.
Replacing storm window glass.
Glass in storm windows is replaced in
the same way as glass in permanent
windows (page 60).
WEATHERSTRIPPING WINDOWS
Most windows manufactured now are
weatherstripped at the factory. If your
windows aren't weatherstripped, you
can seal them yourself with weather-
stripping. The three types generally
available are spring type, pliable
gasket, and compressible felt strips.
Look for weatherstripping in a build-
ing supply store or home improve-
ment center.
Spring-type weatherstripping
made from bronze, aluminum, or
stainless steel is either bent in the
shape of a V (cushion-metal strips) or
slightly angled (spring-metal strips);
made from plastic, it's shaped like a V.
You fasten it with nails to the window
frame, except at the bottom where
you nail it to the bottom of the sash.
Pliable-gasket weatherstripping
is made from resilient material, such
as vi nyl , vinyl-and-foam, felt, or
sponge. This type of weatherstripping
is either backed with adhesive or at-
tached with nails; it should fit on the
window stop so the sash presses
lightly against it. Though not visible
from the inside, the strips may be very
noticeable from the outside.
Compressible felt strips are the
least effective and durable type of
weatherstripping, but they're useful in
some situations (see below). Some
strips fasten with nails or glue; others
are backed with adhesive.
Double-hung windows. Spring-type
weatherstripping is best for a double-
hung window (page 54). Though it's
more difficult to install than pliable
gasket, it's more durable and less vis-
ible. Install the weatherstripping In the
channels, on the top of the upper sash
top rail, on the bottom of the lower
sash bottom rail, and on the side of
the upper sash bottom rail where the
sashes meet.
Casement windows. Pliable-gasket
weatherstripping works well on wood
casement (page 58) and other hinged
windows. Cushion-metal weather-
stripping can also be used on wood
casement windows. Some metal
casement windows can be weather-
stripped with a special spring-metal
strip or vinyl gasket (these must be
special ordered).
You can attach compressible felt
strips to the frame of a metal or wood
casement window where the sash
meets the stop and frame. Though the
strips wear out quickly, they're good
for a warped window that doesn't
close tight.
Sliding windows. For sliding win-
dows with wood sashes (page 59), in-
stall pliable-gasket weatherstripping
along the outside top and bottom of
the frame. If only one sash moves, use
pliable-gasket weatherstripping along
the side of the fixed sash and spring-
type weatherstripping in the channel
where the movable sash closes
against the frame.
If both sashes move, install pli-
able-gasket weatherstripping where
each sash fits against the side of the
frame and between the two sashes so
it forms a seal where they meet.
A window shade is attached to a roller,
which is held in place by two brackets
on the window frame. A blade at one
end of the roller fits into one bracket; a
stationary pin fits into the other. A
spring inside the roller controls the
shade tension. A pawl at one end of the
roller engages a ratchet tooth to lock
the shade in place.
The usual failures of rollers are
bent or loose brackets, too much or too
little spring tension, or a dirt-clogged
part in the spring-and-lock assembly
Fortunately these problems are usually
not difficult to correct. Basic window
shade repairs are described in the
chart below.
Replacing a roller and/or shade. If a
problem cannot be corrected, you may
need to replace the roller and/or the
shade with new ones cut to size.
If the old roller and shade fit well,
measure the old roller's width; then un-
roll the shade completely and measure
its length.
An alternate method is to measure
the window opening (a typical window
is shown on page 54). For mounting in-
side the frame, measure the distance
between the brackets on the side
jambs to determine the roller width.
Measure from the top jamb to the stool
and add 8 inches to determine the
shade length.
For mounting outside the frame,
measure the distance between the
brackets for the roller width. Then mea-
sure from the middle of the top casing
to the stool and add 8 inches for the
shade length.
To cut a replacement roller to size,
remove the cloth; then remove the bar-
rel and stationary pin. Make the cut
with a saw (be careful not to cut the
spring). Replace the barrel and pin in
the exact center of the end of the roller.
To cut a shade to size, unroll it
completely. Square the corners, then
measure the shade's new width at
several points and mark it with a
straightedge. Cut the shade to size with
a pair of scissors, shorten the bottom
slat as needed, and drill a new hole for
the pull cord. Align the top edge of the
shade with the roller guideline and
staple it in place.
With their many moving parts, Venetian
blinds often need adjusting. The blinds
are operated by a series of cords and a
tube. A tilt cord or rod attaches to a pul-
ley and worm gear, which in turn oper-
ates the tilt tube. Attached to the tube
are ladder tapes, which adjust the slant
of the slats. The blind is raised and low-
ered by the lift cord; it's threaded
through the slats and lift cord pulleys.
If a blind rises unevenly loosen the
equalizer catch, adjust the cords so
they're even, and reset the catch. If the
operation is balky or stops altogether,
check for worn or broken cords and
tapes or dirt-clogged gears. Clean any
dirt from the worm gear and lubricate it
with light oil.
To replace worn or broken cords
and tapes, see below. Be sure the new
tapes have the same slat width and
number of rungs as the old ones.
With a traverse rod, you can open and
close your draperies by pulling on a
cord which moves a series of slides
along a track (the draperies are hooked
onto the slides). A two-way traverse rod
allows two drapery panels to overlap in
the center and open to each side. A
one-way traverse rod moves a single
panel to one side. Both types are
mounted on adjustable brackets.
If your draperies don't draw prop-
erly check first for loose or misaligned
brackets, obstructions in the track, or
broken slides. Then look for worn cords
or poor cord tension. If two-way dra-
peries draw unevenly the problem may
be a slipped cord.
Adjusting the brackets. If the brack-
ets are loose, replace any nails with
screws and any loose screws with
longer ones. Fill any stripped screw
holes with glue-coated dowels (page
69) or install wall anchors; then reset
the screws.
If the rod isn't parallel to the wall,
adjust the setscrews so the bracket
ends are all equidistant from the wall.
Checking the track and cord. Re-
move any obstructions on the track
with a wire hook. You'll have to open
the end gate, as shown below, to get
past the slides.
To adjust a slipped cord or the
cord tension, see below.
NOTE: It's easiest to take down the
draperies and remove the rod from the
brackets before working on it.
Replacing a cord. A badly worn or
frayed cord should be replaced. The il-
lustration above shows how cords are
threaded. After knotting the end,
thread the new cord through the mas-
ter carrier, around the pulleys, under
the bridge on the overlap carrier (for a
two-way draw), and through the ten-
sion pulley wheel. Continue around the
last pulley and through the master car-
rier again. Adjust the tension as shown
below; knot the other end.
All hinged doors have the same basic
framework, sometimes hidden under a
solid veneer. The framework consists of
two stiles, which run vertically, and two
or more rails, which run horizontally.
The hinges are on one stile; the latch
and lock are on the other.
The two types of wood doors are
panelled and flush. A panelled door
has a visible frame of stiles and rails that
supports two or more panels. If multi-
panelled, as shown here, the door has
mullions and extra rails.
A flush door is faced with hard-
board or wood veneer covering the
frame. A flush door for exterior use
should have a solid core made from
several layers of hardwood or particle
board; an interior flush door usually has
a hollow core formed from a frame sur-
rounding a grill-like structure.
The door is hinged to a frame, con-
sisting of jambs, casing, stops, sill, and
threshold. The jambs form the sides
and head of the frame; the casing acts
as trim and as support for the jambs.
The stops are wood strips the door fits
against when closed. In exterior doors,
a sill fits between the jambs, forming
the frame bottom. The threshold, or
saddle, is fastened to the sill.
Repairing a door
Age and continual use can cause even
a well-fitted door to loosen, bind, or
warp. Often, the latch no longer works
properly Fortunately correcting these
problems is usually fairly simple. But a
door that's badly warped will have to
be replaced (pages 72-73).
Loose doors. If a door is too small
for its frame, an easy solution is to in-
stall weatherstripping (pages 80-81). If
a loose door is causing latch problems,
you may be able to adjust the latch
(page 72).
Binding doors. Binding or sticking re-
sults from a number of causes, from a
buildup of dirt and paint to a door that
sags and no longer fits in its frame. Ad-
justing the fit of the door usually solves
the problem (see facing page).
Warped doors. If the warp is minor,
you may be able to adjust the stop or
hinges to compensate for it. See page
70 for more information.
Latch problems. When a latch refuses
to work, the trouble may be either with
the fit of the door or with the lockset
(pages 77-79).
Removing a door
If you're working on just one hinge at a
time or on the top of a door, you need
only open the door partially and drive a
wedge underneath the latch side to
hold the door steady But for other re-
pairs, such as sanding or planing the
side or bottom of a door, you'll need to
remove it from its hinges.
To remove the hinge pins, close
the door securely (place a wedge un-
der it or have a helper hold the door).
Using a hammer and a nail or nailset,
gently tap on the bottom of the lowest
pin or on the underside of its head to
drive it up and out of the hinge barrel.
Remove the middle pin, if any then
remove the top pin. Lift the door off
its hinges.
When you reinstall the door, re-
place the top pin first, then the middle
and bottom ones. Drive the pins home
only after the hinges are correctly
aligned. Leave the pins a little loose
so they'll be easier to remove for future
repairs.
A common and annoying problem is a
door that sticks or binds, making it diffi-
cult to open and close it easily. Binding
can result from a buildup of paint or dirt,
or from a misaligned or sagging door.
The cure is usually to adjust improperly
set or loose hinges and/or sand or
plane the door edges (pages 70-71).
First, identify the spots that bind by
inserting a thin strip of cardboard or
wood between the door and jambs.
Look for a buildup of dirt and paint on
the door edges or jambs. Chisel off any
large globs of paint and sand the sur-
face. Coat the door edges and the
jambs with paraffin.
Often, simply tightening loose
hinges gets a sagging door back in
alignment. First, clean off any dirt and
repair or replace any bent hinges.
Tighten any loose hinge screws. If they
can't be tightened, repair the screw
holes as shown below and replace the
screws.
If the door binds badly or isn't
square in its frame, you can diagnose
the problem (see below) to determine
which repairs are needed. The hinges
may have to be shimmed or set in
deeper mortises (page 70). Deepen the
mortises as a last resort; getting the
right depth can be tricky
If you must remove excess wood
from the door edges, sand with coarse,
followed by finer, sandpaper. Keep the
sanding as even as possible. Plane
only if necessary When sanding or
planing the stiles, concentrate on the
hinge side; the lock side is usually
beveled to allow for a tight fit. (For infor-
mation on using a plane, see pages
70-71.)
The best insurance against warping is
to seal the door on all surfaces to pre-
vent moisture from swelling the wood.
You may be able to compensate for a
slightly warped door by repositioning
the stop, partially shimming the hinges,
or adding a hinge. It's best to replace a
door that's badly warped (pages 72-73).
Where there's a slight bow on the
hinge side, centering a third hinge be-
tween the top and bottom ones often
pulls the door back into alignment.
If the bow is near the lock side and
the door latches only when slammed,
first try adjusting the latch (page 72).
If this doesn't help, remove and re-
position the stop as for a window (page
55) and, if necessary adjust the strike
plate alignment (page 72).
If the top or bottom of the door
doesn't meet the stop on the lock side,
you can try to compensate for this type
of warp by repositioning the stop and
the strike plate. You may also have to
shim the hinges (see below for instruc-
tions on making shims) to change the
angle of the door's swing. Place a half-
shim, as shown below, under each
hinge leaf either on the side of the leaf
that's closest to the pin or on the oppo-
site side (depending on the warp). Usu-
ally the other hinge is shimmed in the
opposite way
Techniques for repairing a door include
planing the edges, cutting or deepen-
ing hinge mortises, and making shims
for hinges. To make these repairs, you
may have to remove the hinge pins
(page 68), take down the door, and
support it on edge while you work.
Supporting a door. One way to sup-
port a door while you're working on it is
to set it on edge and wedge one end
into a corner of the room.
A better method is to build two
door jacks (see facing page) and set
the door on edge into the jacks, with
the jacks near each end. The weight of
the door will bend the plywood strips
and press the 2 by 4 wood blocks
against the door like a vise.
Planing a door. Don't be in a hurry
to start planing. When only a small
amount of wood must be removed,
sandpaper wrapped around a wood
block (page 20) is the best choice.
When you must plane, use a plane
that's long enough to ensure flat cuts;
the blade should be wider than the
thickness of the door so the cuts will
be level. Though a jack plane (14 to
15 inches long) is preferable, a 9 to
10-inch-long smoothing plane will do
the job.
To avoid gouging the wood, plane
with the grain. Adjust the blade (page
19) to make paper-thin cuts so you
don't remove too much wood (see fac-
ing page for planing tips).
If you're working on a binding
door (page 69), plane the top or bottom
rail if the door is binding there, or the
hinge stile if the door binds on the
hinge side. It's best to avoid planing a
binding lock stile, since it involves
maintaining the beveled edge along
that side and, in some cases, reposi-
tioning the lockset. Instead, plane the
hinge stile whenever possible to cor-
rect the problem.
You'll need to remove the hinge
leaves before planing. Use a utility knife
to cut through any paint around the
leaves; then unscrew and remove the
hinges. After you plane, deepen the
hinge mortises, as explained below. If
you must plane near the top or bottom
of the lock stile, be sure to re-form the
bevel after planing.
Cutting hinge mortises. Hinge mor-
tises are recesses into which hinge
leaves are fitted so they sit flush with
the door or jamb surface. You'll need to
cut hinge mortises (see facing page)
if you're adding a middle hinge to
straighten a warped door or if you're
hanging a new door. If you're adjusting
the position of the door in a jamb or
you've planed the hinge stile, you'll
have to deepen the mortises. To
deepen a mortise, mark the new depth
on the edge of the door or jamb; then
go to Step 3 (see facing page, bottom
right).
Making shims. To move a door closer
to the lock side of the jamb, you can
insert a shim under the hinge leaves.
Use thin sheet brass (available in
several thicknesses) or dense, hard-
surfaced cardboard (such as that used
in file folders).
Using a hinge leaf as a pattern, cut
a shim and make the screw holes. (The
shim should be minutely smaller in
each dimension than the hinge.) Don't
glue the shim in place—you may want
to remove it later on.
If a door latch doesn't catch or won't
operate smoothly, the latch bolt on the
door may not be lined up properly with
the strike plate on the door jamb. Re-
pairs range from minor latch adjust-
ments to repositioning the door itself.
If the latch's operation isn't
smooth, lubricate the latch with graph-
ite. If it doesn't catch, close the door
slowly to watch how the latch bolt
meets the strike plate. The bolt may be
positioned above, below, or to one side
of the strike plate. (Often, scars on the
surface of the strike plate will give you a
precise clue to the degree and direc-
tion of misalignment.) The problem also
could be that the door has shrunk and
the latch no longer reaches the strike
plate.
Once you've determined the ad-
justment needed, use one of the meth-
ods illustrated below to remedy the situ-
ation. Or, if the door has warped
slightly adjust the angle. To do this, you
can either insert half-shims on the side
of each hinge leaf that's closest to the
pin, angling the door inward, or re-
position the stop so the latch can en-
gage the strike plate (see repairs for
warped doors, page 70).
If the lock is causing the problem,
turn to pages 77-79 for information on
lock repairs.
Hanging a replacement door (see fac-
ing page) takes patience. Following the
steps in order and using the tips listed
below will make the work go faster.
You can fit a new door to a pre-
existing frame (see facing page) or
buy an easy-to-install prehung unit that
comes with frame, door, and hardware,
all fitted and ready to install. Both types
of doors are available at building sup-
ply stores and lumberyards.
Before purchasing a replacement
door, remove the old door and meas-
ure the opening from top to bottom on
both sides. Then measure across the
opening at two or more points; check
the upper corners with a steel square.
Doors, particularly hollow-core ones,
have only a 1/2-inch trim margin, so be
sure the replacement door you pur-
chase will fit your opening.
CAUTION: Be sure to double check
all measurements before cutting.
Here are a few points to keep in
mind when hanging a door:
• Sand or plane any excess wood up
to 1/16 inch on the door's top and bot-
tom, up to 1/4 inch on the sides. Saw
off any excess that's greater; sand.
• Leave a 1/16-inch clearance around
the door on the top and sides. Bot-
tom clearance should be at least 1/2
inch—more if you need to clear a rug.
• Bevel the lock side of the door 1/8
inch so the door will clear the jamb as
it opens and closes. If the door is al-
ready beveled, install it so the bev-
eled edge is on the lock side.
• When installing a hinge on the door,
leave at least a 3/8-inch margin be-
tween the door edge and the hinge
leaf edge.
• If you're hanging a new door in an
existing frame (see facing page),
use the existing hinges if possible. If
you can't use them or must re-
position them, follow Steps 6 and 7
and the instructions for making a
hinge mortise on page 71.
• Place the top hinge about 7 inches
below the top of the door, the other
one 11 inches above the bottom of
the door. If you're installing a third
hinge, center it between the two.
The thresholds inside your house and
the sills and thresholds in exterior door-
ways are the hardest-working parts of
your doors. Because they're exposed
to continual foot traffic and, in the case
of exterior doorways, the elements,
both may eventual l y need to be
replaced.
The sill forms the bottom of the
frame of an exterior doorway and
serves the same function as a window
sill—it diverts water away from the door
and house. The sill fits snugly under the
casing and against or under the jambs.
Fastened to the sill is a threshold,
which helps seal the air space under a
door. Thresholds are often used inside
as well to make a neat transition be-
tween different flooring materials.
Thresholds, also called saddles,
are available in either hardwood or
metal (usually aluminum). You can also
get special thresholds that act as
weatherstripping (pages 80-81).
Removing a threshold or sill. Re-
move a damaged threshold or sill very
carefully so you don't damage the door
frame or, in the case of a sill, any flash-
ing underneath. If necessary you can
cut them out, as shown for window sills
on page 61. Unscrew and remove a
metal threshold. Be sure your replace-
ment is long enough and measure
carefully before making any cuts.
Installing a new threshold or sill.
Check that the clearance between the
bottom of the door and the new thresh-
old is about 1/8 inch. If it's less, mark the
bottom of the door using the new
threshold as a guide, and sand or trim
the door to fit. For installation instruc-
tions, see at right.
If you're adding weatherstripping
along the door bottom (page 80), follow
the manufacturer's recommendations
for clearance.
Once a wood threshold is in place,
sink the nail heads and fill them. Sand
the threshold smooth and coat an inte-
rior one with clear varnish or sealer.
Fasten a metal threshold with screws.
Be sure to finish a sill and thresh-
old in an exterior doorway to protect the
wood against the elements.
All sliding doors operate in basically
the same way, though the variety of
their hardware is almost unlimited.
Some lightweight sliding doors, such
as closet doors and pocket doors
(which slide into walls), and extremely
heavy garage doors are hung from the
top rail. Moderately heavy doors, such
as patio doors, usually rest on the bot-
tom rail.
Nearly all sliding doors glide on
rollers which can be adjusted to make
the door ride higher or lower. Plastic
guides at the top or bottom keep the
doors vertical and aligned with their
tracks.
Removing a sliding door for main-
tenance or repair is simple (see below),
but keep in mind that the door can be
very heavy especially when made from
glass.
All tracks, especially the one that
supports the rollers, must be kept free
of foreign objects and dirt. Occasional
application of a little graphite or paraffin
to the track and a drop of oil to each
roller bearing helps keep the operation
smooth and quiet.
Inspect all hardware periodically
Tighten any loosened screws in the
frame or track and replace any part
that's worn, broken, or missing.
If a door jumps off its track, check
for a dirty track, a section that's bent, or
a guide that's out of alignment (see be-
low). A door tilted in its frame usually
needs roller adjustment (there should
be a 3/8-inch clearance between the
bottom of the door and the floor or rug).
Compensate for a minor warp in a
door by adjusting the rollers. If a door is
badly warped, you'll need to replace it.
storm and screen doors are hung out-
side your home's exterior doors. Storm
doors have an upper panel of glass
and a lower metal or glass panel; a
crossbar divides the panels. The frame
is usually made from aluminum or steel.
Screen doors may have an aluminum
or wood frame with metal or fiberglass
screens. Popular now are combination
doors—screens are fitted into the door
for summer use and are replaced with
glass panels in winter
All storm and screen doors should
have a door closer—either a simple
chain-linked snubber or a pneumatic or
hydraulic type (see at right). The closer
ensures that the door closes smoothly
and protects the door from being
opened too wide or with too much
force.
Like storm and screen windows,
doors are subject to problems with their
frames, glass, and screens. Door
closers may also require adjustment,
as described below.
Maintenance and repair. Maintain
and repair your screen doors in the
same way as window screens (page
62). Keep the hinges of both screen
and storm doors oiled and tight, and
lubricate the door closers once a year.
Check that the latches work well.
Replace hardware, glass (page
60), and screens as necessary In addi-
tion, replace the clips holding the
screens and glass in place if they be-
come bent, broken, or lost.
Replacement parts are usually
available at building supply centers
and hardware stores. Because each
manufacturer's hardware may be
slightly different, be sure the replace-
ment part will fit your particular door.
Adjusting door closers. The simplest
type of closer is a snubber; it attaches
to the head jamb and the top rail of the
door. You can adjust the length of the
chain if the door opens too wide or not
wide enough.
A pneumatic closer attaches to the
door and the hinge jamb. The closing
speed of this type can be adjusted by
turning the adjustment screw in the end
cap. A hold-open washer can be posi-
tioned on the rod to prop the door
open.
A less common type of door closer
is the hydraulic closer. Some types fit
only a right-handed or a left-handed
door; others can be adjusted for either
type of door by inserting a screwdriver
in the adjustment screw, pushing in,
and turning the screw 180°. A slight ad-
justment to the same screw changes
the door's closing speed.
Installing a door closer. Installing a
closer is fairly simple. Before you be-
gin, check that the door operation is
smooth and that the door hardware is
in good working order
If you're installing a snubber, fas-
ten the door mounting bracket to the
door's top rail and the jamb mounting
bracket to the head jamb. Adjust the
length of the chain as necessary
For a pneumatic closer, install the
door mounting bracket on the door's
top rail, mount the closer in the bracket,
and fasten the jamb mounting bracket
to the hinge jamb; adjust the closing
speed.
To install a hydraulic closer, attach
the door mounting bracket and the cyl-
inder to the top rail. Then fasten the
jamb mounting bracket to the head or
side jamb and adjust the closing
speed.
Most locksets for doors fall into two cat-
egories, depending on the way they're
installed. One type, encompassing
both cylindrical and tubular locksets,
fits into a hole bored in the door's face;
the other type, a mortise lockset, fits
into a large recess cut into the edge of
the door.
Most exterior doors have a cylin-
drical or mortise lockset operated with
a key Interior doors have either a cylin-
drical lockset operated with a push but-
ton or a tubular lockset, similar to a
cylindrical one but simpler and less
rugged. An older home may have key-
less interior mortise locks. (For exam-
ples of cylindrical and mortise locks,
see pages 78-79.)
Though locksets require immedi-
ate attention when they fail, many lock-
set problems tend to develop gradually
and can be corrected before they be-
come serious. If a lockset needs to be
replaced, it's easiest to replace it with
one of the same type. To change the
type of lockset, see page 78.
Troubleshooting a lockset. Prob-
lems with locksets generally affect
either the latch assembly or the lock
mechanism. A latch problem may be
the result of a poorly fitting door (page
68). A lock mechanism problem may
be caused by a dirty or dry lock
(though locksets are lubricated during
assembly, the grease can get gummed
up or dried out). Often, you can solve
the problem simply by applying a lubri-
cant. A more complicated lock problem
may call for a locksmith or for a replace-
ment lock.
Solutions to a range of common
problems appear in the chart below. If
your problems require professional
help, keep in mind that removing the
lock and taking it to a locksmith is far
less expensive than having the lock-
smith come to you.
Replacing a lock. Often, it's simpler
and less costly to replace the entire
lockset, as shown on pages 78-79,
than to try to fix it. You can buy mortise
locksets for exterior doors and cylindri-
cal and tubular locksets at building
supply centers, hardware stores, and
from some locksmiths. Mortise locksets
for interior doors are less widely avail-
able. You may find a kit that converts a
mortise lockset to a cylindrical or tu-
bular one or you can try to order a re-
placement from the manufacturer.
If possible, take the old lockset
with you when you're buying a new
one. If you can't, you should have the
following information:
• Type of lock—cylindrical, tubular, or
mortise
• Diameter of the cylinder and latch
holes or the size of the mortise
• Backset measurement (distance
from the edge of the door to the cen-
ter of the doorknob)
• Thickness of the door (most locks
are designed for standard doors)
• Direction the door opens
Cylindrical locksets, commonly found
in houses built since about 1960, are
operated by a key inserted into the ex-
terior knob; the interior knob is oper-
ated either by a small push or turn but-
ton on the knob or by a key inserted
into it.
Tubular locksets are similar in con-
struction to cylindrical ones. The major
differences between them are that
tubular locksets are simpler and have
smaller locking mechanisms.
Removing a faulty cylindrical lock-
set and replacing it with a duplicate,
as shown at right, is a job you can do
yourself. (You remove and replace a tu-
bular lockset in the same way) See
page 77 for information on buying a
replacement.
When you're installing a new lock-
set, be sure the new face plate and
strike plate are flush with the door edge
and door jamb surfaces. If they aren't,
you'll need to adjust the mortises by
chiseling out a shallow mortise (page
72) or by building up a deep one with
wood putty
Changing types of locksets. Though
it's easiest to replace an old lockset
with a new one of the same type, some-
times you may want to replace a cylin-
drical lockset on an exterior door with a
more secure mortise lockset or ex-
change an old mortise lockset on an in-
terior door for a cylindrical or tubular
one.
Such a change is a project re-
quiring some skill in working with wood.
To replace a cylindrical lockset with a
mortise one, you'll first need to patch
any holes in the face of the door and
refinish the door; then you have to cut a
deep mortise for the lock body and drill
new holes for the other lock parts (see
facing page).
If you're replacing a mortise lock-
set with a cylindrical or tubular one,
you'll need to fill in the mortise as well
as patch the door face, then refinish the
door and cut a new hole for the cylin-
der. You may be able to find a kit that
converts a mortise lockset to a cylindri-
cal or tubular one.
The one-piece body of a mortise lock-
set is set into a large, rectangular re-
cess in the edge of the door. The lock-
set has one or two lock buttons in the
face plate and usually a deadbolt that
double-locks the door, as well as a
spring-loaded thumb latch on the exte-
rior handle.
When a mortise lockset fails, you
can replace it either with another mor-
tise lockset that will fit the recess or
with a cylindrical lockset. Replacement
mortise locksets are available at some
hardware stores or from the manufac-
turer. Though more readily available, a
cylindrical lockset doesn't provide the
same security as a modern mortise
lockset.
In older homes, the mortise lock-
sets often found on interior doors are
known as "iron-key" mortise locksets
because of the old-fashioned iron keys
used to operate the locking mech-
anism. When they fail, these locksets
can be replaced with tubular ones.
Replacing a mortise lockset with a
different type requires some wood-
working skill. See the facing page for
information on the steps involved.
WEATHERSTRIPPING DOORS
Drafts and moisture can penetrate
easily through the cracks around an
unsealed door. You can shut them out
by applying weatherstripping to the
door bottom and jambs. On these
pages are a few of the types available.
Before installing weatherstrip-
ping, be sure to correct any fit prob-
lems on the door itself (pages 68-71).
Types of weatherstripping. For
sealing the bottom of a door, you can
use a rain drip, door sweep, automatic
sweep, or door shoe (see below). Rain
drips merely shed rain; other types
block both drafts and moisture. Also
available are special thresholds that
act as weatherstripping. Each comes
in standard door widths but can usu-
ally be trimmed to fit.
For weatherstripping a door jamb,
select spring-metal or cushion-metal,
gasket, felt, or interlocking weather-
stripping (see facing page). Spring-
metal and cushion-metal types provide
an efficient seal and are unobtrusive,
but they tend to make a door difficult
to open and close. Gasket weather-
stripping, which includes felt, may be
pliable or rigid; both types are effi-
cient, though very visible.
Interlocking weatherstripping for
both door bottoms and jambs can be
either surface mounted or recessed in
the door. Both installations require pre-
cise fitting. The recessed type (not
shown here) fits into grooves routed in
both the door and frame; unless
you're handy with tools, it's best to let
a professional install it.
Adjusting existing weatherstrip-
ping. If your weatherstripping is inef-
fective, try these simple repairs. Bend
cushion-metal or spring-metal weath-
erstripping to increase the pressure
on the door If threshold weather-
stripping has elongated screw holes,
adjust the height for a better fit. The
vinyl insert in a vinyl-gasket threshold
is replaceable.
Gypsum wallboard is used as a back-
ing for many wall treatments—wall-
paper, fabric, tile, and even some
paneling. Standard wallboard is com-
posed of a fire-resistant gypsum core
sandwiched between two layers of
paper. Some wal l board is water-
resistant for use in bathrooms and
other damp areas. Though panels are
usually 4 by 8 feet and V2 inch thick,
dimensions can vary
Wallboard panels may be fas-
tened to wall studs or furring strips (see
drawing on page 85) and attached with
wallboard nails, annular-ring nails, or
adhesive. Usually joints between pan-
els are covered with wallboard tape
and several layers of joint compound.
Wallboard repairs range from fix-
ing minor dents to replacing an entire
panel (page 88). When the work is
done, the repaired area should blend
with the surrounding surface.
Making minor repairs
Wallboard can be plagued with a
variety of minor ills, among them dents,
small nail or screw holes, and popped
nails. These problems can usually be
repaired as shown below with simple
techniques and tools—spackling com-
pound, patching plaster, or joint com-
pound, and a putty knife, a claw
hammer, and sandpaper. After fixing
the damage, you'll need to sand and
prime the area, and finish it to match
the rest of the wall.
Repairing a large hole
To repair a large hole, the damaged
section of wallboard must be cut out
and replaced with a new piece of the
same thickness (see facing page). After
taping and sanding the joints to smooth
them, you'll have to finish the surface to
blend closely with the adjacent area.
Cutting and nailing. To remove the
damaged wallboard, first locate the
wall studs (page 89). Use a keyhole
saw and utility knife to cut out the sec-
tion, centering side cuts over studs.
CAUTION: To avoid danger from
electrical wires behind the walls, shut
off the power to the circuit (page 153)
and run a light from another circuit.
Cut the replacement piece and
smooth rough edges with a perforated
rasp; then nail the new piece in place
(see page 89 for nailing techniques).
Taping and sanding. This step, the
key to blending the repair with the sur-
rounding surface, is done in stages
over a period of days. The tools and
supplies you'll need include ready-
mixed all-purpose joint compound; 2-
inch perforated or mesh wallboard tape;
4, 6, and 10-inch taping knives; and
No. 600 grit silicon carbide sandpaper.
NOTE: To finish water-resistant wall-
board, use water-resistant joint com-
pound (follow the package directions).
Apply tape and layers of joint com-
pound, following the steps on the fac-
ing page (see page 89 for finishing
corners). To apply compound, dip the
edge of a clean blade into the com-
pound, loading about half the blade.
Apply the compound across the joint;
then, holding the knife at a 45°angle to
the wall, draw the blade along the joint.
Using increasingly wider knives for
each layer makes the joint smoother.
Let each layer dry for at least 24
hours. When dry wet-sand the com-
pound to remove minor imperfections
by wetting the compound with a
sponge and sanding along the joints
with sandpaper wrapped around a
sanding block. Never sand the wall-
board itself—the scratches may shov,/
through the finish.
CAUTION: When sanding, wear
goggles and a painter's mask.
Finishing. Wipe the wallboard with a
damp sponge to remove sanding resi-
due. If you want to paint, apply a primer
or base coat. For wallpaper, seal the
wallboard with shellac or varnish. If you
need to match a textured wall surface,
use one of the techniques described on
page 90.
When wallboard is water damaged or
has large holes or cracks that run the
length or width of a panel, you may
need to remove the entire panel and re-
place it with a new one cut to fit the
opening.
CAUTION: When sanding wall-
board, wear goggles and a painter's
mask.
Removing a damaged panel
No matter how your wallboard is at-
tached to the studs—with nails or with
adhesive—the removal procedure is
the same.
Use a utility knife to slit through the
taped joints. Then punch through the
center of the panel with a hammer or
prybar and pull off pieces, using both
hands. Working from the center, use a
broad-bladed prybar to pry the panel
edges off the studs. (If the panel is
nailed to the studs, some of the nails will
probably come off with it.)
When the entire panel is removed,
pull out any remaining nails with a daw
hammer. If the wallboard is attached
with adhesive, you can leave the back-
ing paper on the studs.
Installing a new panel
After measuring the size of the open-
ing, you cut the panel to fit, if necessary
Then you'll hang it, and tape and finish
the joints with ready-mixed all-purpose
joint compound. Because wallboard is
bulky to handle, you may need a
helper.
Cutting the panel. To make a straight
cut, follow the directions on the fac-
ing page. To fit wallboard around
doors, windows, electrical receptacles
and switches, or other openings, you'll
need to measure and mark the panel.
Measure from the vertical edges of the
opening to the edge of the nearest
panel or to a corner; measure from the
horizontal edges to the ceiling. Transfer
your measurements to the wallboard
and cut the panel, using a keyhole saw.
Hanging the panel. Mark stud loca
tions on the floor and ceiling. Position
the panel over the opening, supporting
it with a 1 by 4 and a prybar, and nail the
edges to the studs with wallboard nails
(see below). Also nail the panel to the
top and sole plates, and to the studs
behind the panel ("in the field"). Nails
should be 8 inches apart and 3/8 to 1/2
inch from the panel edges. Panels can
also be double nailed for extra holding
power. Add a second nail 2 inches from
each initial nail; space pairs 12 inches
apart in the field.
Drive all nails so the last blow dim-
ples the panel surface (see special nail-
ing techniques on facing page).
Taping the joints. If your wallboard is
a backing for paneling, you may not
have to tape the joints (consult your
local building code). But if it will be cov-
ered with paint, wallpaper, a textured
finish, or tile, you' ll have to tape
all joints and cover all nail heads with
joint compound.
Follow Steps 3 to 9 on page 87 to
tape the joints and apply compound.
To tape corners, see the facing page.
You'll also have to cover the nail
heads with joint compound. Do this
when you apply the tape. Using a
4-inch putty knife, cover the nail heads
and fill the dimples with compound.
When it's dry apply one more coat over
the nail heads. Let it dry then sand as
you would the joints. Wipe away any
sanding residue with a damp cloth and
prime if you plan to paint.
Working with wallboard involves using
special techniques when you're cutting
it, nailing it, or working with corners.
When cutting wallboard, get a
helper to hold the panel while you
mark, score, and break it. When you
nail wallboard, it's important to dimple
the surface without puncturing the face
paper or crushing the core. It takes
practice—the secret is to hammer the
nail heads squarely
To tape corners, you'll need a cor-
ner tool and precreased tape for inside
corners, metal cornerbead for outside
corners. As with other joints, you
feather the compound edges with 6
and 10-inch taping knives.
Plastered walls are composed of three
layers: a base coat, a thick coat of plas-
ter for strength, and a finishing coat for
appearance. These may be applied
over wood lath, metal mesh, special
gypsum wallboard, or masonry
On these pages, you'll find instruc-
tions for patching cracks and holes in
plaster with or without a lath base, as
well as tips on finishing the patched
area to match the surrounding surface.
If a large area is damaged or the base
needs repair, you may want to consult
a professional.
Patching cracks and holes. Fine
cracks, nail holes, and small gouges in
plaster can be repaired with spackling
compound. You can also fill cracks with
a special crack patcher.
To patch wide cracks and holes,
apply two layers of patching plaster
plus a layer of fine-textured finishing
plaster. The first layer should fill a little
more than half the depth, leaving
enough space for the next two layers.
Let each layer dry completely before
adding the next.
To fill a hole without a base (for ex-
ample, where an electrical box has
been removed or where damage has
affected the base), you'll have to install
metal mesh (see facing page).
Finishing the patch. Matching an
existing texture requires skillful treat-
ment of the still-wet finishing plaster.
You'll have to experiment to achieve a
good match.
For a smooth surface, pull a metal
float or wide putty knife dipped in water
across the plaster. When dry sand to
remove minor imperfections; prime
before painting.
For a textured surface, use a paint
brush, stippling brush, household
sponge, sponge float, whisk broom, or
wire brush—whatever will give you the
desired finish. Daub or swirl the plaster
in a uniform, random, or overlapping
pattern. To create peaks in the plaster,
use a brush or a tool with bristles; when
the peaks start to stiffen, gently draw a
clean metal float over the surface to
smooth them. Let the plaster dry; then
prime and paint.
Solid board paneling is made up of 1/4
to 3/4-inch-thick hardwood or softwood
boards ranging from 3 to 12 inches
wide. Boards may have square edges,
but most often are milled to overlap or
interlock. Milling may be tongue-and-
groove (shown below) or shiplap. The
paneling may be attached to studs, fur-
ring strips (page 85), or wallboard.
Damaged board paneling re-
sponds well to a variety of techniques
for repairing minor scratches and
gouges, dent s, and even deep
gouges. But if you can't repair the dam-
aged paneling to your satisfaction or if
the damage is more serious, you may
want to replace one or more boards
(see directions below). Be sure to care-
fully match any new paneling and its
finish with adjacent surfaces.
Minor scratches and gouges. One of
the most common ways to conceal
shallow scratches and gouges is to fill
them with a putty stick, then wipe away
any excess putty with a clean cloth.
Choose a color that matches the finish
of your paneling. You can also conceal
minor scratches on paneling as for
furniture—with furniture polish or an al-
mond stick, a compressed-fabric stick
impregnated with oil.
Dents and deep gouges. You can try
to restore dented wood fibers by re-
moving all the finish from the dent site,
then placing a damp cloth and hot iron
over the dent until the wood fibers rise
to the level of the surrounding surface.
Let the wood dry thoroughly before
sanding it smooth and refinishing the
area to match.
To repair a deep gouge or a nail
hole, fill it with a matching wood putty
using a flexible putty knife to apply the
putty Let it dry; then sand the patch
smooth with fine-grade sandpaper
wrapped around a sanding block. Fin-
ish it to match the surrounding area.
Sheet paneling may have a veneer of
wood, simulated wood, or even fabric
or vinyl. Of these, wood veneer re-
sponds best to repair, though even
your most careful efforts may show.
Panels usually measure 4 by 8 feet
and are fastened to wall studs or furring
strips (see illustration on page 85) with
adhesive or nails. Following are direc-
tions for concealing minor scratches
and nicks and for filling gouges and
cracks in finished wood veneer panel-
ing. If you can't conceal the damage to
your satisfaction or if the paneling has
holes, you may want to replace an en-
tire panel (see below).
Minor scratches and nicks. The sim-
plest way to conceal these flaws is to
use a putty stick to "draw" over the
mar; wipe away any excess putty with a
clean cloth. (Putty sticks come in a vari-
ety of colors to match finished wood
paneling.) You can also hide scratches
and nicks with shoe polish (test first),
floor wax, or an almond stick.
A more thorough method involves
sanding, staining, and refinishing the
veneer. Lightly rub the damaged area
with fine steel wool or fine-grade sand-
paper, applying less pressure toward
the edges; wipe away any residue. Ap-
ply wood stain with a cotton swab.
After the stain is dry lightly buff the
area again with a fine abrasive and
wipe away the sanding residue. Spray
a light coat of varnish on the area and
let it dry; then lightly buff with a fine
abrasive and wipe. If the original pan-
els were waxed, wax the entire panel
and buff to a sheen with a clean cloth.
Deep gouges and cracks. Use a
putty knife to fill deep gouges and
cracks with wood putty When the putty
is dry, sand it smooth. Use a small
brush to stain or paint the putty so it
matches the finish of the panel or use
colored putty that matches the finish.
When ceramic tiles get cracked or
chipped or work loose from the wall,
it's time to replace them. Before you re-
fasten any loose tiles, check under-
neath—a common cause of loosening
is moisture under the tiles. Be sure to
correct the problem—such as a leak-
ing pipe or roof—and check that the
substructure is in good condition.
The directions below for replacing
ceramic tiles apply to floors and counter-
tops as well as walls. But note that they
apply only to tiles installed in a thin-set
mastic or mortar-type adhesive, not the
thick mortar bed professionals use.
When you replace tiles, be sure to
choose the appropriate mastic for the
area you're tiling. If you're using water-
resistant mastic, work in a well-
ventilated area. In addition to mastic,
you'll need patching plaster to create a
base for the new tiles, latex primer, and
grout for filling the spaces between
tiles.
If you don't have spare tiles to re-
place chipped of broken ones, take a
sample to a tile dealer, manufacturer,
or contractor. They may have "bone
piles" of old and discontinued tiles
where you can find a match.
CAUTION: When chipping out old
tiles, be sure to wear goggles to protect
your eyes from flying tile fragments.
ATTACHING SPECIAL WALL FASTENERS
Ordinary nails or screws often won't
anchor firmly in plaster, gypsum wall-
board, paneling, or masonry walls. To
hang objects from these walls, you
may need special fasteners.
Plaster, gypsum wallboard, and
paneled walls. You can usually use
conventional nails to hang lightweight
objects from these walls. You may
want to drill a pilot hole for the nail to
avoid cracking the wall material.
To secure shelf brackets and
other heavy items, use wood screws
attached to the studs (see page 89
for tips on locating studs). Where
you can't drive into a stud, choose
anchors or toggle bolts; once through
the hole, they expand to distribute
weight more widely than a screw. Be
sure to buy the proper size fastener
for the thickness of the wall and the
weight of the object you're hanging.
To install anchors, drill a hole, in-
stall the anchor, and insert the screw;
then tighten it to spread the anchor.
With a toggle bolt, slide the bolt
through the hook or object to be
mounted before inserting the toggle in
a hole drilled into the wall; if you re-
move the bolt when the fastener is in
place, you'll lose the toggle. Don't fas-
ten the bolt or screw too tightly; this
pulls the anchor or toggle into the wall
material and weakens its grip.
Masonry walls. For these walls, hang
l i ghtwei ght obj ects from speci al
tempered-steel masonry nails; use
anchors that have a resilient sleeve
that expands to hold a screw or bolt
in place for heavier objects. Drive in
nails with a claw hammer (be sure to
wear safety goggles).
The key to successful installation
of masonry anchors is proper drilling
of the hole to receive the sleeve and
screw. Use an electric drill with a car-
bide masonry bit (page 16) to drill the
hole. Then push in the sleeve, insert
the screw through whatever you are
fastening, and drive it into the sleeve.
As wallpaper ages, it's subject to loos-
ened edges, tears, bubbles, and other
damage—all of which you can easily
repair. When making a repair, use lap-
and-seam adhesive to hold the wall-
paper in place. A seam roller helps you
press the wallpaper smoothly to the
wall.
Repairing loose edges and tears. To
reglue an edge or fix a tear, follow the
directions at right. Don't use too much
adhesive—it can soak through and
stain the wallpaper.
Patching damaged paper. Some
damage, such as stains, scuff marks, or
wallpaper completely torn off, requires
patching with a matching piece of wall-
paper if one is available. Cut a square
or rectangular replacement piece
slightly larger than the damaged area,
taking care to match patterns. Apply
the patch as illustrated at right.
Repairing bubbles. Use a clean,
damp cloth to moisten the area with the
bubble. Using a utility knife or sharp
razor blade, slit the bubble. Avoid mak-
ing a straight cut—a V-shaped slit or
one that follows the wallpaper's pattern
will conceal the cut and make gluing
easier.
With a narrow putty knife, force
glue through the slit. Use a damp
sponge to spread the glue so it com-
pletely fills the area beneath the bub-
ble; press the wallpaper smoothly to
the wall.
Prefabricated ceiling tiles are attached
either to an existing ceiling or to furring
strips. Staples or nails, either with or
without adhesive, or adhesive alone
secures the tiles.
Often, ceiling tiles show the effect
of water damage. To conceal stains or
streaks in tiles, apply a primer or clear
sealer. When the tiles are dry, you can
paint them with latex paint.
Another problem you may en-
counter is dents or chips in tiles. Illus-
trated at right are the steps in removing
and replacing a dented tile with tongue-
and-groove edges. You cut through all
four joints and pry the tile off its back-
ing; pry out the cut-off tongues from the
grooves in the adjacent tiles. Use pliers
to remove remaining staples or nails;
scrape off adhesive.
After cutting the tongue off one
side of the replacement tile, apply ad-
hesive to the back of the tile or to the
ceiling (follow the tile manufacturer's
directions). Position the tile over the
opening, slip the remaining tongue into
the groove of an adjacent tile, and
press in place until the adhesive holds;
or use a floor-to-ceiling brace to hold
the tile until the adhesive is dry
A fresh coat of paint is a fast and effec-
tive way to conceal wall repairs. De-
pending on the size of the repair and
the availability of matching paint, you
can paint just the repaired area, the
whole wall, or the entire room. Here
are some guidelines to help you get
ready for the job.
Selecting paint and tools. The type
of surface you're covering determines
the kind of paint required. If you have
paint left over from the original job,
you're in luck. If not, refer to the chart
at right for the appropriate paint.
Choosing the correct brush is im-
portant, too. The type of bristle should
suit the paint or stain you're using; the
brush size must fit the job. Select a
natural-bristle brush to apply oil-base
paint, Polyurethane, varnish, or shel-
lac. Use brushes with synthetic bris-
tles to apply water-base (latex) paint.
For wood stains, use either type of
brush. Choose a 1-inch brush for hard-
to-reach areas, a 2 to 3-inch brush for
medium-size surfaces, and a 31/2 to
4-inch brush or 9-inch roller for large
areas, such as entire walls. Use a
thick-napped roller for textured walls.
Preparing the surface. Before you
can apply the paint, you may need to
sand and wash the surface. In most
cases, you will at least have to apply a
primer to ensure that your repair will
not show. For more information, see
the Sunset book Wall Coverings.
PAINTING OVER WALL REPAIRS
A good wood floor will last the life of
your home and actually improve with
age. But even the best wood floors are
subject to damage or other problems.
The problem may be in the surface
flooring or related to defects in the sup-
porting structure. To successfully repair
the floor, it's important to know what
type of flooring you have and how it's
attached to the subfloor, as well as the
cause of the damage or problem.
Flooring structure, types of wood
flooring, and common problems are
described below. On the following
pages you'll find directions for repair-
ing surface damage, fixing individual
boards, replacing damaged sections
of flooring, and silencing squeaky
floors both from the surface and from
underneath.
Flooring structure. A wood floor con-
sists of a finished floor laid over a sub-
floor supported by joists and beams
(see drawing above). Joists may have
solid or diagonal bridging between
them to provide extra strength. Joists,
beams, posts, and. In a two-story
house, bearing walls carry the weight
of the flooring materiall and subfloor
and transfer it to the foundation.
The finished floor may be hard-
wood—red or white oak, mapl e,
beech, or birch—or one of the less ex-
pensive softwoods, such as hemlock,
larch, or elm.
The subfloor may be constructed
from 1 by 4, 1 by 6, or 2 by 6 lumber, or
plywood panels. In a lumber subfloor,
boards are laid diagonally across joists.
A plywood subfloor has panels laid in a
staggered fashion with the ends of the
panels butted together over and nailed
to the joists.
If your house is built on a concrete
slab, the floor may be laid over wood 2
by 4s (called sleepers) and nailed, or
laid on a base of plywood and fastened
with nails or adhesive.
Types of wood floors. Two common
types of wood flooring are strip and
plank. Boards for strip flooring come in
random lengths and uniform widths.
(Common widths are I1/2, 2, 21/4, and
31/4 inches.) Plank flooring, a holdover
from colonial days, was originally made
from maple planks more than a foot
wide. Today, it differs little from strip
flooring, except that it comes in random
widths (usually 3, 5, and 7 inches), as
well as random lengths. In both types,
board length usually ranges from 2 to 8
feet; most boards are 3/4 inch thick.
Both strip and plank boards may
be milled with square or tongue-and-
groove edges and ends, or with a com-
bination of both. Depending on the mill-
ing, strip and plank floorings may be
blind nailed, face nailed, or screwed to
the subfloor (see drawing below).
Tongue-and-groove strip flooring
is almost always blind nailed; square-
edged strip flooring is usually face
nailed. Tongue-and-groove plank floor-
ing may be blind nailed, screwed, or
both; square-edged planks may be
face nailed, screwed, or both. Plugs
usually indicate that flooring is screwed
to the subfloor, though plugs are some-
times used just for decoration.
Common floor problems. Problems
can range from minor surface damage
to serious structural defects. Daily wear
and tear on a wood floor causes sur-
face scratches and gouges. The natu-
ral expansion and contraction of wood
occurring with changes in temperature
or humidity as well as alternate drying
and wetting due to leaks, can cause
nails to pull out of the wood, allowing
flooring boards to separate or warp;
even the joists and the subfloor can
separate. The natural settling of a
house can also cause separations be-
tween the joists and the subfloor.
If your floor is sagging or uneven,
there could be a serious structural
problem; consult a professional.
Repairing the floor. You can repair
most minor surface damage yourself
(see facing page). If your floor has sep-
arated, split, loose, or warped boards,
first determine the cause and correct it,
if necessary; then make the repair (see
facing page).
If the damage is too extensive for a
simple repair, you may need to replace
boards or sections of flooring as
described on pages 100-101. (Direc-
tions for replacing damaged sections
depend on how the boards are milled
and the way they're secured to the
subfloor, so be sure to make these
determinations before going ahead.)
To eliminate squeaks in floors, you can
choose one of several methods, from
lubricating the squeak with graphite to
installing wood shims (page 102).
Finally, if your floor's overall ap-
pearance and condition are suffering,
you may want to make repairs and
replacements where necessary, then
refinish the entire floor. For refinishing
techniques, see the Sunset book Do-lt-
Yourself Flooring.
Surface damage on wood floors, as
well as separated, split, loose, or
warped boards, can be successfully
repaired. When you're refinishing the
repaired area, match its color and pro-
tective finish as closely as possible to
the surrounding area to effectively hide
the repair.
Repairing surface damage
To preserve the beauty of your wood
floors, repair surface damage, such as
water or burn marks, scratches, and
gouges, immediately after it occurs. In
most cases, you'll first have to remove
the protective wax or oil finish from the
damaged area with a wax stripper.
Once you complete the repair, you
must rewax or oil the area. When strip-
ping and rewaxing, follow the manu-
facturer's directions for the product
you're using.
Water marks. After removing the pro-
tective finish, rub the marks with fine-
grade steel wool and a little paste wax
or a solvent-base liquid floor wax. If the
marks don't disappear, wipe the wax
with a soft cloth and rub again with fine-
grade steel wool and odorless mineral
spirits. Wipe clean and finish.
Burn marks. For burn marks that just
darken the wood's surface, lightly
sand; wipe up sanding residue with a
damp cloth. When dry finish as de-
sired.
For deeper burns, carefully scrape
out the burned wood with a sharp knife.
Apply one or more coats of a commer-
cial scratch hider, putty stick, or stick
shellac; then finish.
Scratches and gouges. You can con
ceal a shallow scratch with one or
two. applications of a commercial
scratch hider or crayon. To repair deep
scratches and gouges, remove wax or
oil from the damaged area. Fill the
scratch or gouge with matching wood
putty putty stick, or stick shellac. Let
dry; then sand smooth with fine-grade
sandpaper and finish.
Fixing damaged floor boards
It's best to repair separated, split,
loose, or warped floor boards as soon
as trouble appears.
For long or wide separations be-
tween boards, fill the gaps with a wood
strip (see below). For the best fit, angle
the saw blade to cut a strip that tapers
in slightly at the bottom.
Loose, split, or warped boards
can be satisfactorily repaired, as shown
below. Sand any putty when it's dry
with fine-grade steel wool and finish the
floor as desired.
If your damaged flooring doesn't re-
spond to the remedies on pages 98-99
and 102, you may need to replace
some boards. The job doesn't require
exceptional skill, but it does take
patience and finesse.
Ideally replacing boards will be
one step in an overall floor refinishing
project. If not, you'll have to take spe-
cial care to match and finish the re-
placement boards. To ensure a good
match, take the old boards when you
shop for replacements. With plank
flooring, make a drawing of the dam-
aged area showing the dimensions of
the planks you're removing.
Before replacing flooring, look for
evidence of the nailing method. In blind
nailing, nails are driven through each
board's tongue, and they don't show
from the finished surface. Dots of wood
putty indicate face nailing. Plugs on
plank flooring often cover screws; if the
plugs are just decorative, the flooring is
blind nailed (some flooring secured
with screws may be blind nailed as
well). For any of these, you can use one
of two approaches.
One approach, shown below, is to
remove the damaged boards in a stag-
gered pattern. This produces a less no-
ticeable repair and is best for an open
floor area. The other approach (see fac-
ing page), good for areas that will be
covered by a rug or furniture, is to cut
out a rectangle, remove the damaged
boards, and replace them.
Illustrated here are directions for
replacing blind-nailed tongue-and-
groove boards. You'll follow the same
general sequence to replace other
types of flooring, but because they're
attached differently to the subfloor,
note special instructions that follow.
Face-nailed square-edged boards. Use
a nailset to drive the nails through
the boards and into the subfloor. If
you're using the rectangular pattern,
cut only the ends of the boards. Start-
ing at one end, use a prybar to remove
them. With the staggered pattern, fol-
low Steps 1-3 below.
Lay new boards (cut to size) in
place; use a hammer and 2 by 4 wood
block to tap the last one into place.
Face nail boards to the subfloor, match-
ing the nail pattern in the original floor-
ing. Countersink the nail heads with a
nailset and hammer; fill the holes with
wood putty After the putty is dry sand it
smooth and finish the area to match the
existing flooring.
Plugged planks. After marking the
area to be cut, use an electric drill to drill
out the wood plugs down to the screw
heads; then remove the screws. If your
planks are also face nailed (look for
dots of wood putty), use a nailset and
hammer to drive nails through the
planks and into the subfloor.
To cut a rectangular pattern, set
the blade of a power circular saw to the
thickness of the planks and cut the four
sides, using a wood guide strip; care-
fully remove the planks with a prybar.
To remove planks in a staggered pat-
tern, follow Steps 1-3 (facing page).
Mark the replacement planks and
cut them to length. Using the plugs in
the existing planks as guides for spac-
ing, mark the locations of screw holes
on the ends of each replacement plank
and on the ends of each existing plank
adjacent to the opening. At each loca-
tion, use an electric drill with combina-
tion bit to drill a hole for the plug and a
pilot hole for the screw shank (page 15).
The diameter and depth of the holes
should be the same as those in the ex-
isting flooring.
Lay the planks one at a time. Insert
and tighten the screws. Daub glue in
the plug holes and seat the plugs,
removing excess glue. When the glue
is dry sand the plugs flush with the sur-
face and finish the boards to match the
existing flooring.
It's often relatively simple to eliminate
floor squeaks once you pinpoint the
cause. Knowing why floors squeak and
how to determine the cause of the
squeaks you hear will help you choose
the appropriate repair method illus-
trated below.
What causes squeaks. The squeaks
you hear when you walk across a floor
occur when pieces of wood rub to-
gether. Squeaks in wood floors can
originate in the finished floor, subfloor,
joists, bridging, or other parts of the
supporting structure (page 98). Com-
mon causes are separations between
the joists and subfloor (due to drying,
inadequate nailing, or settling), weak or
loose bridging, and ill-fitting or warped
floor boards.
Locating squeaks. In a house where
joists are visible from the basement or
crawl space, you'll be able to pinpoint
squeaks more easily than in homes
where joists aren't exposed or where
it's an upper floor that's making the
noise.
If joists are exposed, watch from
below while another person walks
across the floor above; you should be
able to detect the probable cause of the
squeak. For example, you may spot
slight movement between joists and
the subfloor, or loose bridging between
joists. If the joists are not exposed,
you'll have to confine your investiga-
tions to the finished flooring.
Correcting squeaks. Simple reme-
dies include squirting powdered or
liquid graphite between boards or dust-
ing cracks between boards with talcum
powder. You can also apply floor oil to
the floor or a few drops of mineral oil
between boards. (Use mineral oil spar-
ingly; too much can stain the surface of
the floor.)
If the squeaks are coming from ill-
fitting or warped boards, you can often
fix them from above. Work wood putty
between boards or try one of the reme-
dies below. Nail through the flooring
from above only when you can't work
from below; the areas where you nail
may be somewhat conspicuous.
In a home where joists are ex-
posed, you can work on the floor from
underneath. Toenail loose bridging
(page 98); tighten other loose areas as
shown below.
The family of floor coverings described
as resilient flooring includes lino-
leum, cork, polyurethane, vinyl, vinyl-
asbestos, rubber, and asphalt mater-
ials. Resilient flooring comes in indi-
vidual tiles or in sheets up to 12 feet
wide. Both types are usually laid in
solvent-base adhesive on concrete,
plywood, or hardboard; some tiles are
self-sticking.
Resilient floors are flexible, re-
sistant to moisture and stains, and easy
to maintain. Even so, they can get
scratched, stained, or gouged, and
they may develop bumps, bubbles, or
curled edges. These may be minor sur-
face problems or indications of prob-
lems in the subfloor.
Before you try to repair or replace
damaged sections of resilient flooring,
you'll need to determine the cause of
the damage and, if necessary correct
it. Then you can either touch up the sur-
face to conceal the flaws, or patch or
replace the damaged area. If you must
replace flooring, take care to match
materials and adhesives (see at right).
Evaluating the damage. The cause of
most surface damage, such as stains,
scratches, gouges, or holes, is usually
readily apparent. But some minor sur-
face damage can often be traced to
more serious problems in the subfloor
or supporting structure.
A regular pattern of indentations,
running for several feet or forming T's,
may be caused by separations in the
subfloor due to shrinkage of the wood
or settling of the structure. In such a
case, you'll have to remove the floor
covering and repair the subfloor (con-
sult the Sunset book Do-lt-Yourself
Flooring).
Small bumps that appear in the
surface of the floor may be caused by
nails that have worked loose. Over a
period of time, movement in the struc-
ture can cause the subfloor to separate
from the joists, forcing the nails up into
the resilient flooring. Or, if the original
tiles or sheet material was installed
when there was too much moisture in
the subfloor, the nails may have worked
loose as the damp wood dried.
You can place a wood block over
the bumps and tap it lightly with a ham-
mer to drive the nail heads flush. If this
doesn't work, you'll have to remove the
floor covering to gain access to the
subfloor.
If tiles have curled at the edge or
popped loose in one area, you may
have a minor plumbing leak. Stop the
leak (page 135) before you fix the floor-
ing. Moisture can also cause sheet
vinyl to work loose around the perim-
eter of a room. Moisture in the floors of
rooms at or below grade level often
results from poor drainage outside
(page 50), a problem you'll have to
solve before repairing the flooring.
Repairing or replacing flooring. You
can make most minor surface repairs
effectively using the simple tools and
techniques shown on page 104. If dam-
age is more extensive, you'll have to re-
move and replace a tile or even patch
a section of sheet flooring (pages
104-105).
Matching replacement materials
and adhesives. If you have material
left over from the original installation or
if the floor is relatively new and the ma-
terial is still available, it's likely you'll be
able to make a satisfactory match. But
a patch on old or worn flooring may be
conspicuous. If so, consider using a
complementary or even contrasting
color or design. If you can't make
repairs that are visually acceptable,
it may be time to replace the entire
floor covering.
When you repair or replace resil-
ient flooring, use the adhesive speci-
fied by the flooring manufacturer. If
you're sure of the type of flooring you
have, a flooring materials supplier can
tell you what adhesive is recom-
mended; if you're not sure, take a
sample of the flooring with you. Also be
prepared to tell the supplier what kind
of subfloor you have.
For all repairs discussed on these
pages except repairing bubbles, use a
solvent-base adhesive (use a water-
base one for bubbles). When working
with a solvent-base adhesive, check
the container to find out what solvent
is recommended for cl eani ng up
smudges or removing stubborn adhe-
sive that remains after the damaged
flooring has been removed. Have the
solvent on hand so you can quickly
remove any smudges before they dry
Minor stains or surface damage on
resilient tile can be easily corrected, but
more serious damage may mean re-
placing one or more tiles.
To remove surface stains, see the
facing page. Directions for refastening
curled tiles or repairing bubbles or
small holes appear below.
If a tile is badly scratched or
gouged, you'll have to take it up and
replace it (see at right). If you have an
exact match, your repair will be almost
invisible, provided the existing tiles
aren't discolored.
To remove the damaged tile, you'll
•need a propane torch with a flame
spreader or an iron; use a stiff putty
knife to lift up the damaged tile and to
remove the adhesive. When you've re-
moved the tile, let the adhesive cool
and harden (it will take about an hour)
before you scrape it away Check that
the subfloor is smooth and flat. Set the
replacement tile in the same type of ad-
hesive used in the original installation
or in a solvent-base adhesive.
Be sure the new tile is level with the
adjacent ones. If it's too low, lift it up and
apply more adhesive. If it's too high,
press it down to squeeze out excess
adhesive. Use the recommended sol-
vent to remove excess adhesive and let
the adhesive dry completely before
walking on-the floor.
If your sheet flooring is stained or has
suffered minor surface damage such
as bubbles or small holes, see below
and on the facing page for repair
instructions. If the damage is more
serious, you can patch the area with a
new piece of flooring (see at right).
In patching, the trick is to match
the patch to the existing floor. If you de-
cide to patch rather than lay all new
flooring, you'll need a replacement
piece larger than the damaged area.
When you position the patch, be
careful to align the pattern on the patch
with the pattern on the existing flooring.
Use a sharp utility or linoleum knife and
a steel straightedge to cut through the
flooring; you'll need a putty knife to pry
up the damaged area and scrape off
the old adhesive on the subfloor. If nec-
essary, apply adhesive solvent to re-
move the damaged flooring and the
old adhesive.
To set the new patch, use solvent-
base adhesive or the adhesive used in
the original installation. The patch must
be level with the existing floor. If the
patch is too low, lift it up and apply more
adhesive. If it's too high, press it down
to squeeze out excess adhesive. Use
the recommended solvent to remove
excess adhesive. Follow the adhesive
manufacturer's directions for drying
time.
To prevent stains in resilient tile
and sheet flooring, wipe up spills
promptly. Stubborn stains or stains
that have set require a bit more work,
and even some experimentation.
First try to remove the stain by
wiping it with a clean white cloth
moistened with liquid detergent floor
cleaner (use a nylon pad dipped in the
detergent for heavy residue).
If detergent doesn't remove the
stain, try the following products, one
at a time and in order: rubbing alco-
hol, liquid chlorine bleach, turpentine,
nail polish remover, and lighter fluid.
CAUTION: Do not apply nail polish re-
mover to vinyl and vinyl-asbestos; tur-
pentine, nail polish remover, or lighter
fluid to asphalt or rubber tile; or
chlorine bleach to natural cork.
Apply each product with a clean
white cloth, turning the cloth fre-
quently. Don't walk on the treated
area for 30 minutes. When the stain is
gone, rinse the area with water and let
it dry; reapply floor finish, such as vinyl
floor polish or wax, if it's normally
used.
Avoid using abrasive scouring
powders or pads on resilient flooring,
no matter what type you have. Before
using any cleaning product, in fact,
it's a good idea to test it on an incon-
spicuous area. If you're in doubt
about what cleaning product to use on
your floor, consult your flooring dealer.
REMOVING STAINS FROM RESILIENT FLOORING
Installed where the floor and walls
meet, baseboards (also called base
molding) and shoe moldings hide un-
even floor and wall joints and protect
walls from damage caused by foot traf-
fic, furniture, and cleaning tools. Often,
they become so dented or marred that
they warrant replacement.
Below are directions for replacing
lengths of baseboard and shoe mold-
ing that have square ends. For lengths
that run into corners, you'll have to cut
mitered or coped ends (see facing
page).
Buying materials. When you shop for
replacement sections, take a piece of
the old ones with you to ensure a good
match. Wood baseboards and shoe
moldings come in many standard pat-
terns and sizes and several finishes. If
yours are old ones, though, you may
have to get specially milled replace-
ments.
When ordering, specify thickness
first, then width and length (both thick-
ness and width are measured at their
widest points). Also buy a supply of fin-
ishing nails (size depends on the thick-
ness of the baseboard and molding).
Replacing baseboards and shoe
moldings. When removing sections of
baseboard and shoe molding, be care-
ful not to damage the wall behind them.
To protect the wall, use a wood block
behind the prybar as you work (see
drawings below) and pry only at studs.
Begin by inserting the thin end of
a broad-bladed prybar between the
baseboard and shoe molding. Pry out-
ward along the molding to loosen it,
then pull the molding carefully away
from the baseboard.
To remove a length of baseboard,
insert the thin end of the prybar be-
tween the baseboard and wall. Pry out-
ward to create a gap between the wall
and baseboard. As the baseboard
comes loose, insert wood wedges in
the gap. Continue prying and inserting
wedges until the length of baseboard is
fairly loose. Then pry with one hand,
grab the baseboard with the other, and
yank it away from the wall. Remove any
nails that remain in the wall, shoe mold-
ing, or baseboard.
Measure the lengths of replace-
ment baseboard and shoe molding
against the damaged ones for fit. Mark
cutting lines with a pencil. To cut re-
placement pieces, use a miter box and
back saw. Holding the wood steady,
saw on the waste side of the cutting
line.
Place the new baseboard against
the wall. Drive finishing nails through
the baseboard and into each stud.
Then position the shoe molding against
the baseboard and drive finishing nails
through the molding and into the sole
plate at each stud location. Use a ham-
mer and nailset to sink nail heads and
fill the holes with wood putty. When it's
dry sand it smooth. Finish the base-
board and shoe molding as desired.
Cutting and fitting corners. When
you're replacing two lengths of base-
board that meet at an outside corner,
you'll have to miter the ends of both
pieces and install them as shown
above right. If the ends of the base-
boards you're replacing meet at an in-
side corner, cope the end of one re-
placement to fit over the other (see at
right). Cut and fit the ends of both shoe
molding pieces in the same way
Squeaks in stairs are usually caused by
a loose tread rubbing against a riser or
the stringers when someone steps on
the stair. Treads become loose when
joints open due to shrinkage or when
supporting blocks or nails work loose.
Once you pinpoint the location of the
noise, you can usually remedy it.
You probably already know which
steps are the noisemakers in your stair-
case. If the noise comes from where
you step, concentrate your repair ef-
forts there. If the noise comes from one
side when you step in the center, or if it
comes from the rear of the tread when
you step at the front, first secure the
place where you step, then move to the
apparent source of the noise.
If the stairs are accessible from un-
derneath, work on them from below so
your repairs won't show. You can use
wedges, brackets, or wood blocks to
secure the treads to the risers (see be-
low at right).
If you don't have access from be-
low, you'll have to work from above.
First, try lubricating the stairs with pow-
dered graphite or talcum powder.
Forcefully blow the powder into the
joints, especially where the backs of the
treads meet the risers.
If this doesn't help, try one of the
repairs illustrated below at left. To pre-
vent the wood from splitting, drill pilot
holes before inserting nails or screws;
counterbore the holes (page 15) if you
plan to fill them with dowel plugs rather
than wood putty
If you drive in wedges, you'll have
to remove any shoe molding first (see
inset above). After driving in the
wedges with a hammer as shown be-
low left, cut them flush with the riser, us-
ing a utility knife, and replace the shoe
molding to conceal them.
Most wood banisters consist of one or
two handrails, balusters, and one or
more supporting newel posts (see fac-
ing page). Repeated use can weaken
the banister, resulting in loose hand-
rails, balusters, or posts.
Methods for tightening loose parts
involve inserting wedges or securing
loose joints with screws. If you're using
screws, drill pilot holes for them to pre-
vent the wood from splitting. Use an
electric drill with a combination bit
(page 16) so you can sink the screw
heads. To conceal them, fill the screw
holes with wood putty—preferably col-
ored to match the wood—and sand the
putty smooth.
The first step in fixing a leaking or slug-
gish faucet is identifying which of the
two basic types of faucets you're deal-
ing with. One is a long-standing design
— usually with two handles and one
spout—called a compression faucet
(see below). The other is a more recent
type called a washerless faucet. It usu-
ally has a single lever or knob that con-
trols the flow and mix of hot and cold
water by aligning interior openings with
the water inlets.
Washerless faucets may be one of
several types—disc, valve, ball, or car-
tridge. An example of each is de-
scribed on pages 115-118. Because
models vary with the manufacturer, it's
important to get identical replacement
parts.
Directions for disassembling and
repairing compression and washerless
faucets appear here and on the follow-
ing pages. When you're taking the fau-
cet apart, douse stubborn connections
with penetrating oil before trying to
loosen them with a wrench. Tape-wrap
the wrench's jaws to prevent marring
visible parts of the fixture.
Before starting any faucet repair,
plug the sink so small parts can't fall
down the drain; then line the sink with
a towel to prevent damage from tools
or parts accidentally dropped. As you
disassemble the faucet, line up the
pieces in the order that you remove
them so you can put them back to-
gether properly
CAUTION: Before you work on a
faucet, turn off the water at the fixture
shutoff valves or the main shutoff valve
(page 111), and open the faucet to drain
the pipes.
If your faucet has separate hot and cold
water handles, it's probably a compres-
sion faucet (also called a stem or washer
faucet). In this faucet, a rubber seat
washer is secured to the stem, which
has very coarse threads on the outside.
When you turn the handle to shut off the
faucet, the stem is screwed down, com-
pressing the washer against the valve
seat in the faucet body The stem is se-
cured by a packing nut, which com-
presses the packing (twine, a washer,
or an 0;ring) and prevents water from
leaking around the stem.
If water leaks around the handle,
tighten the packing nut. If that fails,
replace the packing (see next page).
If the faucet leaks from the spout,
either a washer is defective or a valve
seat is badly corroded. To find out
which side needs work, turn off the
shutoff valves one at a time; the leak will
stop when one or the other is turned off.
Then you'll need to take off the handle,
remove the stem, and either replace
the washer, or replace or recondition
the valve seat (see next page).
When you reassemble the faucet,
lubricate the stem threads with plumb-
er's grease before installing the stem. If
the threads are worn or stripped, con-
sider replacing the stem.
Before doing any work, turn off the
water at the fixture shutoff valves or at
the main shutoff valve (page 111). Open
the faucet to drain the pipes.
CLEANING YOUR FAUCET AERATOR
If the flow from your faucet is sluggish,
the trouble may be in the faucet aer-
ator. This device, at the tip of most fau-
cet spouts, mixes air and water for a
smooth flow. But minerals or dirt par-
ticles in the water often build up on the
screen and disc, blocking the flow.
If mineral deposits are to blame
or if aerator parts are damaged, it's
best to replace the aerator. But if dirt is
the problem, simply unscrew the aer-
ator from the end of the spout (to
loosen stubborn connections, douse
them with penetrating oil). Disassem-
ble and set the parts aside in order.
Clean the screen and disc with a
brush and soapy water; use a pin or
toothpick to open any clogged holes
in the disc. Flush all parts with water
before putting them back together.
In disc faucets, the mix and flow of hot
and cold water are controlled by two
discs (not shown in drawing) inside the
cartridge. Raising the faucet handle
lifts the upper disc, controlling the
amount of flow; rotating the handle
turns the lower disc, controlling the mix.
The disc assembly seldom wears out,
but if it does, you'll need to replace the
entire cartridge. Most often, the rubber
inlet and outlet seals in the cartridge are
the problem.
If you have a leak at the base of the
faucet, a seal may be worn. Take the
faucet apart as shown below; you'll find
the set of seals under the cartridge.
Replace them with exact duplicates.
If the water flow is sluggish, first
check the faucet aerator (see facing
page). If that's not the problem, the fau-
cet inlet and outlet holes may be ob-
structed by sediment buildup; if so,
scrape away any deposits.
When reassembling a dismantled
faucet, be sure to realign the seals on
the bottom of the cartridge with the
holes in the faucet body
Before doing any work, turn off the
water at the fixture shutoff valves or the
main shutoff valve (page 111).
A valve faucet has a valve assembly on
each side (one for hot water, one for
cold) through which water flows up and
out the spout. Moving the handle from
side to side controls the mix; moving it
forward and backward controls the flow.
The main problems you may en-
counter with a valve faucet are spout
leaks, loose handle assemblies, and
sluggish flow. A leak at the base of the
spout may be due to a faulty spout
O-ring; if the spout drips, you may need
to replace one or more of the valve as-
sembly parts. If the handle is loose, a
simple adjustment to the handle screw
or cam assembly at the back of the fau-
cet can remedy it. Finally if sluggish
flow is the problem, the strainers or aer-
ator (page 114) may be clogged with
sediment and need cleaning.
Before doing any work, remember
to shut off the water supply to the
faucet.
In a ball faucet, water flows when open-^
ings in the rotating ball align with hot
and cold water inlets in the faucet body.
If water leaks from under the han-
dle, leave the water on and tighten the
adjusting ring; if the leak persists, turn
off the water and replace the cam. For a
dripping spout, replace the inlet seals
and springs or the ball.
Cure any leaks around the spout
sleeve by replacing the 0-rings on the
faucet body
A cartridge faucet has a series of lioles
in the stem-and-cartridge assembly
that align to control the mix and flow of
water. Usually, leaks occur because of
worn 0-rings or a faulty cartridge.
First, look at the 0-rings on the fau-
cet body If they're in good shape, re-
move the cartridge (look under the
spout sleeve or on the outside of the
faucet for the retainer clip that holds the
cartridge in place). If the cartridge is
worn, replace it with a duplicate.
Cartridges vary so read the manu-
facturer's instructions before installing
a new one. The most common type has
a flat side that must face front; other-
wise, the hot and cold water supply will
be reversed. Be sure to fit the retainer
clip snugly into its slot.
Before doing any work, remember
to shut off the water supply
A kitchen sink spray has a spray head
attached to a hose, which is connected
to a diverter valve in the faucet body
When you squeeze the spray head
handle, the diverter valve reroutes
water from the faucet to the spray head
hose. Illustrated is one of several types
of diverter valves.
If the flow is sluggish, make sure
the hose isn't kinked; then clean the
aerator in the spray nozzle. Continued
sluggishness may indicate diverter
valve problems. You'll have to clean the
valve or replace it.
If the spray head leaks, remove it
from the hose and replace the washer.
For a leak at the faucet end of the hose,
tighten the hose coupling. If the hose
itself leaks, it's probably cracked; you'll
need to replace it.
Like sink faucets, tub faucets can be
compression style or washerless. If you
need to repair a leaking tub faucet, re-
fer to the directions for sink faucets on
pages 113-118.
To take apart any style tub faucet,
pry off the cap, unscrew the handle,
and remove the escutcheon. In a com-
pression faucet, you'll see the stem and
packing nut. You may need to use a
deep-socket wrench (page 21) to grip
and loosen a recessed packing nut.
The washerless tub faucet shown
here is repaired in almost the same way
as a cartridge-type sink faucet (page
118). You remove the stop tube and
draw out the retainer clip to get at the
cartridge. The other kind of washerless
tub faucet (not shown here) is repaired
like a ball-type sink faucet (page 117).
If your shower head leaks where it
meets the arm, you probably need to
replace the washer. To reach it, loosen
the collar, using tape-wrapped rib-joint
pliers; then unscrew the head from the
adjusting ring.
Erratic or weak pressure usually in-
dicates mineral buildup. To restore
proper flow, clean outlet holes with a
pin or unscrew a perforated face plate
and soak it overnight in vinegar; then
scrub it clean.
If the shower head pivots stiffly
check the washer for wear and coat the
swivel ball with petroleum jelly before
reassembling.
As its name implies, a pop-up stopper
moves up or down to open or close the
drain. The primary stopper problem is
a bad fit between the stopper and the
sink or tub.
When a stopper doesn't seat prop-
erly, you need to remove and inspect it.
Some sink stoppers sit atop the pivot
rod and simply lift out; others require a
slight twist to free them because a slot
on the body hooks them to the rod. Still
others are attached to the pivot rod.
To remove a tub stopper, pull it out
along with the rocker arm. (They
should come out readily, since the
striker spring rests unattached on the
rocker arm.)
Clean the stopper of hair and de-
bris. If there's a rubber seal, pry it off
and check for damage. Slip on a new
one if needed. Also make sure the
flange is tightly seated and in good
shape.
If a sink stopper still doesn't seat
properly adjust the clevis screw, pivot
rod, or retaining nut (see below). If a tub
stopper doesn't fit after cleaning, re-
move the overflow plate and pull the
entire lever assembly out through the
overflow. Loosen the adjusting nuts;
slide the middle link up the striker rod.
Lower the link for a sluggish drain.
A stopped sink drain isn't just an incon-
venience; it can sometimes be an
emergency.
It's always best to prevent clogs
before they happen (for hints, see page
127). Be alert to the warning sign of a
sluggish drain—it's easier to open a
drain that's slowing down than one
that's stopped completely
When it's too late for preventive
medicine, a dose of scalding wat er-
especially effective against grease
buildups—may be treatment enough.
If not, it could be that something
foreign—a button, coin, or small
utensil—has slipped down the drain.
To check, remove and thoroughly
clean the sink pop-up stopper (page
121) or strainer.
Often, a clog will be close to the
sink. You can determine this by check-
ing the other drains in your home. If
more than one won't clear, something
is stuck in the main drain (pages
126-127). Otherwise, you're probably
dealing with a clog in the sink trap or
drainpipe. The most effective way to
clear a clog is with a snake (see facing
page). You can try using a plunger or a
chemical drain cleaner first; in any
case, pay special attention to the
cautions on these pages before you
begin work.
What's the first reaction to a clog?
Reach for the plumber's helper—the
plunger. The plunger is a good drain-
clearing tool, but it often fails to work
because it's incorrectly used. Don't
make the typical mistake of pumping
up and down two or three times,
expecting the water to whoosh down
the drain.
Though no great expertise is
needed to use this simple tool, here are
a few tips to guide you:
• Choose a plunger with a suction cup
large enough to cover the drain
opening completely as shown in
the drawing at right.
• Fill the clogged fixture with enough
water to cover the plunger cup.
• Coat the rim of the plunger cup with
petroleum jelly to ensure a tight seal.
• Block off all other outlets (the over-
flow, second drain in a double sink,
adjacent fixtures) with wet rags.
• Insert the plunger into the water at
an angle so no air remains trapped
under it,
• Use 15 to 20 forceful strokes, hold-
ing the plunger upright and pump-
ing vigorously
• Repeat the plunging two or three
times before giving up.
Though routine use of chemical drain
cleaners to prevent clogs may even-
tually damage your pipes (see "Pre-
venting Drain Clogs," page 127), these
cleaners can be helpful in opening
clogged drains. If water is draining
somewhat but plunging has failed to
open the drain completely, you may
want to try using a drain cleaner.
Whenever you use chemicals, do
so with caution and in a well-ventilated
room. Be sure to take these precautions:
• Never use a plunger if a chemical
cleaner is present in the drain; you
risk splashing caustic water on your-
self.
• Wear rubber gloves to prevent the
chemical from burning your skin.
Avoid splashing the cleaner.
• Don't use a chemical cleaner if the
blockage is total, especially if the
fixture is filled with water. It won't
clear the blockage, and you'll face
another problem—how to get rid of
the caustic water.
• Never use a chemical cleaner in a
garbage disposer.
• Read labels and match cleaners
with clogs. Alkalis cut grease; acids
dissolve soap and hair.
• Don't mix chemicals. Mixing an acid
and an alkali cleaner can cause an
explosion.
• Don't look down the drain after
pouring in a chemical. The solution
often boils up and gives off toxic
fumes.
Should the plunger and chemical treat-
ment fail, try the snake (also called a
drain-and-trap auger). This tool is a
very flexible metal coil that you feed
through the pipes to reach the clog.
The most effective way to snake
out a clog is to remove the trap and
snake directly through the drainpipe. If
you don't want to remove the trap, you
can try snaking through the sink drain
opening or the trap cleanout, if any But
be forewarned that if a metal trap is thin
or badly corroded, you may punch
through it with the snake.
To use the snake, feed it into the
drain, trap, or pipe until it stops. If the
snake has a movable handle, position it
about 6 inches above the opening and
tighten the thumbscrew; rotate the han-
dle to break the blockage. If there's no
handle, maneuver the cable by simul-
taneously pushing and twisting until it
hits the clog.
The first time the snake stops, it
probably has hit a turn in the piping
rather than the clog. Guiding the snake
past a sharp turn takes patience and
effort. Keep pushing it forward, turning
it as you do. Once the head of the
snake hooks some of the blockage,
pull the snake back a short distance to
free some material from the clog; then
push the rest on through.
If snaking doesn't succeed, the
clog is probably too deep in the pipes
to reach through the drainpipe. This
means you're dealing with a main drain
clog that needs to be attacked through
the soil stack, main cleanout, or house
trap (pages 126-127).
Sink traps often develop leaks or clogs.
Corrosion or a loose or stripped cou-
pling can produce leaks. If the drain is
clogged and resists all attempts to un-
clog it (pages 122-123), suspect a min-
eral buildup inside the trap.
To resolve these problems, you'll
need to install a new trap and possibly
a new tailpiece. Determine what type of
trap you have—swivel or fixed P—and
replace it with an exact duplicate. The
new unit comes complete with washers
and threaded couplings. Tailpieces are
sold separately
To remove the tailpiece only see
below. Don't force a stubborn unit; re-
move the trap instead.
Before tryi ng any drai n-cl eari ng
methods on a plugged tub, check that
the tub's pop-up stopper is opening
fully (page 121) and is free of hair and
debris.
If the stopper isn't the problem,
then the drainpipe is probably clogged.
First try a plunger or chemical drain
cleaner (page 122). If these fail to do the
job, you'll have to clear the trap with a
snake.
Most tubs have a P trap in the
drain. In some homes, the tub may
have a drum trap in the floor near the
tub instead (it will have a removable
metal cover and a rubber gasket).
Using a snake in a tub P trap is
much like snaking a sink trap (page
123). If you have a drum trap, first try
snaking it clear through the tub over-
flow. If that doesn't work, bail out all the
standing water from the tub. Then, us-
ing an adjustable-end wrench, un-
screw the trap cover slowly Have rags
ready for any water that wells up. Re-
move the cover; bail out and clean the
trap. If, after this, water does not well
up, snake toward the tub; if water does
well up, snake toward the main drain.
If you can't reach the clog from the
trap, it's probably deeper in the main
drain (pages 126-127).
Though it may be difficult to unclog a
shower drain with a plunger, it's worth a
try If that doesn't work, maneuver a
snake down the drain opening into the
trap.
As a last resort, you can use a gar-
den hose. Attach the hose to an out-
door faucet or to an indoor faucet with a
threaded adapter. Push the hose deep
into the drain and pack rags into the
opening. Turning the water on in short,
hard bursts should open the drain.
CAUTION: Never leave a hose in
any drain; a sudden drop in water pres-
sure could siphon sewage back into
the fresh water supply
If a clog is too deep in the pipes to get at
from a fixture (pages 122-123 and 125),
the trouble lies somewhere in the main
drain or soil stack. A blockage in either
one can stop up all the fixtures above
the clog.
To troubleshoot a clog, trace the
pipes from the plugged fixtures to the
main soil stack. You can clear the soil
stack from above, through the vent.
The main drain is cleared through the
main cleanout, vent, or house trap.
Drain-clearing tools. You'll need a
special 50 to 75-foot-long snake-
hand-operated or pov\/ered—to work
on a vent stack. You can rent either tool;
if you choose a power snake, use cau-
tion and work with a partner—this tool
can be dangerous.
Instead of using a snake on a main
cleanout or house trap, you can use a
garden hose with rags stuffed around it
or a balloon bag attached to a hose
nozzle.
CAUTION: Exercise extreme care
when using a hose; you're dealing with
raw sewage. Never leave a hose in any
drain; a sudden drop in water pressure
could siphon sewage back into the
fresh water supply
Clearing the soil stack and main
drain. First try clearing the stack by
feeding a snake in through the roof
vent. (Be especially careful on a steep
or slippery roof.) If the clog's not in the
stack, attack the clog from the main
cleanout or house trap.
The main cleanout, usually a Y or
T-shaped fitting, is near the bottom of
the soil stack where it meets the main
drain. Look for it in the basement or
crawl space, or on an outside wall. Use
a pipe wrench to remove the cleanout
plug. Have pails, mops, and rags
handy; open the plug slowly to control
the flow of waste and not release a
flood.
If a snake, hose, or balloon bag
doesn't break up the clog, move down-
stream to the house trap.
The house trap has two adjacent
cleanout plugs near where the main
drain leaves the house. With a pipe
wrench, slowly loosen the plug nearest
the outside sewer line. Probe with a
snake, but be ready to withdraw it and
cap the trap quickly when water flows.
When it subsides, reopen the trap and
clean it out from both ends with a wire
brush.
After clearing any clog, always
flush the pipes thoroughly from up-
stream in the system, using plenty of
clean water.
PREVENTING DRAIN CLOGS
No plumbing problem is more com-
mon or more frustrating than a
clogged drain. Kitchen sink drains
clog most often because of a buildup
of grease that traps food particles.
Hair and soap are often at fault in
bathroom drains. Drains can usually
be cleared easily and inexpensively,
but taking some simple precautions
will help you avoid stop-ups.
Proper disposal of kitchen waste
will keep sink drain clogs to a mini-
mum. Be especially careful not to
pour grease down the kitchen sink.
Another villain is coffee gr ounds-
throw them out, don't wash them
down.
Be sparing with chemical cleaners,
particularly if you have brass, steel, or
cast-iron traps and drainpipes; some
caustic chemicals can corrode metal
pipes. (Plastic drainpipes are more
resistant to damage from caustic
chemicals.) If used no more than once
every few months, cleaners contain-
ing sodium hydroxide or sodium
nitrate can be safe and effective.
Safety precautions for using
drain cleaners are on page 122. Be
sure to follow these, as well as the in-
structions on the package. You'll need
to let the cleaner sit in the bend of the
trap for awhile for it to be effective. Be
careful not to splash the cleaner
around or get any on your skin. Rinse
the area thoroughly with clean water
when you're finished.
Clean floor drain strainers. Some
tubs, showers, and basement floor
drains have strainers that are
screwed into the drain opening. You
can easily remove these strainers and
reach down into the drain with a bent
wire to clear out accumulated debris.
And be sure to scrub the strainer
Clean pop-up stoppers (page 121) in
the bathroom sink and tub regularly.
Lift out sink pop-ups once a week and
rinse them off.
Every few months, remove the
overflow plate on a tub and pull up the
pop-up assembly to reach the spring
or rocker arm. Remove accumulated
hair and rinse thoroughly.
Keep the sewer pipes from the
house free of tree roots that may in-
vade them. If roots are a particular
problem in your yard, you may need to
call in professionals once a year or so
to clear the pipes. They'll use an elec-
tric auger to cut out the roots.
Finally, flush the drain-waste and
vent systems whenever you go up
onto your house roof to clean out
downspouts or gutters. Run water
from a garden hose into all vents, giv-
ing them a minute or two of full flow.
Two assemblies are concealed under
the lid of a toilet tank: a ball cock assem-
bly, which regulates the filling of the
tank, and a flush valve assembly, which
controls the flow of water from the tank
to the bowl.
Here's what happens when some-
one presses the flush handle. The trip
lever raises the lift wires (or chain) con-
nected to the tank stopper. As the stop-
per goes up, water rushes through the
valve seat into the bowl via the flush
passages. The water in the bowl yields
to gravity and is siphoned out the trap.
Once the tank empties, the stop-
per drops into the flush valve seat. The
float ball trips the ball cock assembly to
let a new supply of water into the tank
through the tank-fill tube. As the tank
water level rises, the float ball rises until
it gets high enough to shut off the flow
of water. If the water fails to shut off, the
overflow tube carries water down into
the bowl to prevent an overflow.
On the next five pages are instruc-
tions for making toilet repairs. For quick
reference, see the chart below.
If you hear a high whine or whistle as
the toilet tank fills after a flush, the prob-
lem may be simply restricted water flow
or, more importantly a defective ball
cock assembly
The ball cock in your toilet tank
may be one of several types (see at
right). The conventional diaphragm-
type ball cock is shown in the repair
sequences in this section. Two newer
types—the float-cup ball cock and
the adjustable-fill valve—eliminate the
need for a float arm and ball.
To correct a noisy toilet, try adjust-
ing the shutoff valve first; the problem
may be restricted water flow. Still noisy?
Oil the trip lever or replace the ball cock
washers. If that doesn't work, replace
the entire ball cock assembly
CAUTION: First turn off the water
at the fixture shutoff valve; then flush
the toilet to empty the tank and sponge
out any remaining water
If water in your toilet tank trickles inces-
santly, refer to the chart on page 128 for
help in diagnosing the cause. If the
problem isn't in the ball cock assembly
(page 129), you may need to adjust or
replace the float mechanism or one
or more parts of the flush valve
assembly—the overflow tube, valve
seat, tank stopper, guide rod, or lift
wires. Or you may need to replace the
entire assembly
Float mechanism. Bending the float
arm downward or away from the back
of the tank may stop the water from run-
ning. Replace a water-filled float ball.
Flush valve assembly. A defective or
badly fitting valve seat or stopper may
cause a running toilet. If the valve seat
is rough and pitted, scour it smooth.
If the tank stopper isn't seating
properly try adjusting the guide rod
and lift wires or chain. Or replace the
stopper with a duplicate or a flapper.
If a metal overflow tube is cracked,
replace it. If the toilet is still running, re-
place the entire flush valve assembly
(you'll have to disconnect the tank from
the bowl to get at the valve seat).
CAUTION: First turn off the water
at the fixture shutoff valve; then flush
the toilet to empty the tank and sponge
out any remaining water.
If you suspect a toilet is clogged, don't
flush or it may overflow.
To unclog the toilet, first bail out or
add water so the bowl is half-full. Then
use a funnel-cup plunger, specially de-
signed to fit the bowl's trap. If the
plunger doesn't clear the clog, use a
closet auger (page 21). Its curved tip
reaches deep-set clogs and its protec-
tive housing won't scratch the bowl.
MAINTAINING YOUR SEPTIC TANK
A good septic tank system doesn't re-
quire a great deal of maintenance or
call for many special precautions. But
the maintenance it does require is
crucial, since failure of the system can
constitute a serious health hazard.
You should have a diagram of your
septic tank's layout, showing the loca-
tion of the tank, pipes, manholes, and
disposal field. If you don't, the infor-
mation may be on a lot plan filed with
the county or city clerk.
Chemicals, drain cleaners with lye,
and thick paper products should
never be disposed of through the sys-
tem. Some chemicals destroy the
bacteria necessary to attack and dis-
integrate solid wastes in the septic
tank. Paper products can clog the
main drain to the tank and smaller
pipes to the disposal field, making the
entire system useless. Also, don't let
cooking grease enter the system; it
will coat the surface of the earth in the
disposal field and prevent absorption.
Have your septic tank checked by a
professional about once a year. To
function properly, the tank must main-
tain a balance of sludge (solids re-
maining on the bottom), scum (gas
containing small solid particles), and
liquid, as shown on the drawing at
right. The proportion of the sludge
and scum layers to the liquid layer de-
termines whether pumping is needed.
Have your septic tank pumped by a
professional whenever necessary to
remove sludge and some of the scum.
The best time to do the work is in the
spring, since during the winter the
bacterial action is slowed down and
the tank will have become loaded
with solid waste.
other toilet problems you may need to
repair include leaks, tank sweating,
and flush problems.
CAUTION: Some repairs require
an empty tank. Turn off the water at the
fixture shutoff valve; flush the toilet and
sponge the tank dry
Leaks. Toilet leaks, a common prob-
lem, may be confused with toilet sweat-
ing. For a tip on how to detect leaks,
see page 131.
To stop a leak between the tank
and bowl of a bowl-mounted toilet tank,
tighten the bolts in the tank, or remove
them and replace their gaskets. To seal
the connections on a wall-mounted
tank, tighten the couplings on the pipe
connecting the tank and bowl, or un-
screw the couplings, remove the pipe,
and replace the washers.
If the base of the bowl leaks, the
bowl will have to be lifted up and re-
sealed. For this job, call a plumber or
see the Sunset book Basic Plumbing
Illustrated.
Tank sweating. This problem occurs
most often in the summer when cold
water in the tank cools the porcelain,
and warm, moist air condenses on the
outside. Tank sweating encourages
mildew, loosens floor tiles, and rots
subflooring.
An easy solution is to insulate the
inside of the tank, either with a special
liner sold at plumbing stores or with a
liner made of foam rubber pads. A
more costly remedy and one that's
usually a job for a professional, is to in-
stall a tempering valve that mixes hot
water with the cold water entering the
tank.
Flush problems. A loose handle or
trip lever can cause an inadequate or
erratic flush cycle. Adjusting the set-
screw on the handle or lever or re-
placing the handle can often solve the
problem. Clogged flush passages
under the bowl's rim may also be re-
stricting the flow of water during a flush.
Clean obstructed passages with a
piece of wire.
A higher than normal water bill might
be your first indication of a leaking pipe.
Or you might hear the sound of running
water even when all your fixtures are
turned off.
When you suspect a leak, check
the fixtures first to make sure all the fau-
cets are tightly closed. Then go to the
water meter, if you have one. If the dial
is moving, you're losing water some-
where in the system.
Locating the leak. Finding the leak
isn't always easy The sound of running
water helps; if you hear it, follow it to its
source. You can buy a listening device
that amplifies sounds when it's held up
to a pipe.
If water is staining the ceiling or
dripping down, the leak is probably di-
rectly above. Occasionally though,
water may travel along a joist and then
stain or drip at a point some distance
from the leak. If water stains a wall, it
means there's a leak in a section of
pipe. Any wall stain is likely to be below
the actual location of the leak, and
you'll probably need to remove part of
the wall to find it.
Without the sound of running
water and without drips or stains as evi-
dence, leaks are more difficult to find.
Using a flashlight, check all the pipes in
the basement or in the crawl space.
Fixing the leak. If the leak is major,
turn off the water immediately either at
the fixture shutoff valve or the main
shutoff valve. You'll probably have to
replace the leaky section of pipe. You
may want to call in a plumber. Or, to fix it
yourself, see the Sunset book Basic
Plumbing Illustrated.
If the leak is small, the ultimate
solution is to replace the pipe; but there
are temporary solutions until you have
time for the replacement job. These
methods work for small leaks only
Clamps should stop most leaks for
several months if they're used with a
solid rubber blanket. It's a good idea to
buy a sheet of rubber, as well as some
clamps sized to fit your pipes, at a hard-
ware store and keep them on hand just
for this purpose.
A sleeve clamp that exactly fits the
pipe diameter works best. Wrap a rub-
ber blanket over the leak, then screw
the clamp down over the blanket. An
adjustable hose clamp used with a rub-
ber blanket stops a pinhole leak. If
nothing else is at hand, use a C-clamp,
a small block of wood, and a rubber
blanket.
In a pinch, try applying epoxy
putty around a joint where a clamp
won't work. The pipe must be dry for
the putty to adhere. Turn off the water
supply to the leak and leave the water
off until the putty hardens completely
on the pipe.
If you don't have a clamp or putty
you can still stop a small leak tempo-
rarily by plugging it with a pencil point
(see the Quick Fix-up below).
Pipe noises range from loud hammer-
ing sounds to high-pitched squeaks.
The causes may be loose pipes, water-
logged air chambers, or water pres-
sure that's too high. Anchoring ex-
posed pipes is a simple solution; other
remedies, such as anchoring pipes
concealed inside walls, floors, or ceil-
ings, may call for a professional.
Banging. Pipes are usually anchored
with metal pipe straps every 6 to 8 feet
for horizontal runs, 8 to 10 feet for verti-
cal runs. If your pipes bang when you
turn on the water, you may need to add
straps, cushion the pipes with a rubber
blanket, or both. When you anchor a
pipe—especially a plastic one—leave
room for expansion. Also, don't use
galvanized straps on copper pipes.
Squeaking. Only hot water pipes
squeak. As the pipe expands, it moves
in its strap, and friction causes the
squeak. Solution: Cushion it as you
would a banging pipe.
Water hammer. This noise occurs
when you turn off the water at a faucet
or an appliance quickly The water flow-
ing through the pipes slams to a stop,
causing a hammering noise. The cause
could be loose pipes; anchor them as
shown below.
In some homes, the problem may
be faulty air chambers (see below).
These lengths of pipe, installed behind
fixtures and appliances, hold air that
cushions the shock when flowing water
is shut off. They can get filled with water
and lose their effectiveness.
To restore air to the chambers, turn
off the water at the main shutoff valve
(page 111) and open all the faucets to
drain the system. Close the faucets and
turn the water on again. The air cham-
bers should fill with air.
Another cause of water hammer is
water pressure that's above 80 psi
(pounds of pressure per square inch).
To lower the pressure, install a
pressure-reducing valve (you can call a
plumber or see the Sunset book Basic
Plumbing Illustrated).
A faucet that won't yield water is the first
sign of frozen pipes. If a severe cold
snap hits, prevent freezing and subse-
quent bursting of pipes by following the
suggestions below. Even if the pipes do
freeze, you can thaw them before they
burst if you act quickly
Preventing frozen pipes. When tem-
peratures fall very low, here's how to
keep your pipes from freezing:
• Keep a trickle of water running from
the faucets.
• Beam a heat lamp or small heater at
exposed pipes.
• Wrap uninsulated pipes with news-
papers, heating wires, foam, or self-
adhesive insulating tape.
• Keep doors ajar between heated
and unheated rooms.
Thawing frozen pipes. If a pipe
freezes, first shut off the water at the
main shutoff valve (page 111) and open
the faucet nearest the frozen pipe so it
can drain as it thaws. Waterproof the
area with containers and plastic drop-
cloths in case leaks occur; then use
one of the following methods to gradu-
ally warm the frozen pipe. Be sure to
work from the faucet toward the iced-
up area.
• Propane torch. With aflame-spread-
ing nozzle, the torch will quickly thaw
a frozen pipe.
CAUTION: Shield flammable
areas with a fireproof sheet: don't let
the pipe get too hot to touch.
• Hair dryer Used like the torch, a
dryer will gently defrost the pipe.
• Heating pad. Wrap a length of pipe
with a heating pad.
• Heat lamp. For pipes behind walls,
floors, or ceilings, beam a heat lamp
8 or more inches from the surface.
• Hot water If no other method is avail-
able, wrap the pipe (except plastic)
in rags and pour boiling water on it.
Homeowners who used to simply turn
down the thermostat in a vacated
house for the winter are now closing
down the plumbing system because
of prohibitively high energy costs.
Winterizing your plumbing is a virtu-
ally cost-free alternative to frozen
pipes.
First, turn off the main shutoff
valve (page 111) or have the water
company turn off service to the
house. Starting at the top floor, open
all faucets, both indoors and outside.
When the last of the water has
dripped from the taps, open the plug
at the main shutoff valve, if possible
(you may have to contact the water
company), and let it drain.
Turn off the power or gas to the
water heater and open its drain valve.
To freezeproof the system, empty
toilet bowls and tanks. Remove the
cleanout plugs on all sink traps or re-
move the traps, if necessary (page
124). Once emptied, replace them and
fill with automotive antifreeze mixed
with water in the proportions specified
for cars in your climate.
You won't be able to drain tub and
shower traps. Instead, add at least a
quart of full-strength antifreeze. Don't
put antifreeze into a dishwasher or
clothes washer
Finally, if your home has a base-
ment floor drain or a main house trap,
fill each with full-strength antifreeze.
WINTERIZING YOUR PLUMBING SYSTEM
Most problems with water heaters are
announced by noises or by water that's
either too hot or not hot enough. Often
you can correct the problem yourself. A
possible exception is a water leak,
which may require professional service
or tank replacement. Gas leaks call for
immediate help from the utility com-
pany
How a water heater works. When-
ever someone turns on a hot water fau-
cet, heated water is drawn from the top
of the tank and is replaced by cold wa-
ter that is carried to the bottom through
the dip tube. When the water temper-
ature drops, a thermostat activates the
heat source—a burner in a gas model,
two heating elements in an electric.
A gas heater has a flue running up
the center and out the top to vent
deadly gases. An electric heater needs
no venting. In both, an anticorrosion
anode attracts corrosion that would
otherwise attack the tank's walls.
Maintenance for good, safe ser-
vice. Open the drain valve at the bot-
tom about every 6 months—letting the
water run into a bucket until it looks
clear (usually about 5 gallons) will pre-
vent sediment accumulation. Annually
test the temperature-pressure relief
valve, which guards against hazardous
pressure buildup: lift or depress its han-
dle, and water should drain from the
overflow pipe; if it doesn't, shut off wa-
ter to the heater, open a hot water fau-
cet somewhere in the house, and re-
place the valve.
CAUTION: If steam or boiling
water ever comes out of the valve or
the hot water faucets, shut the heater
off at once. And if you ever hear a rum-
bling sound, assume the heater is over-
heating and turn it off.
Water temperature. If temperature is
a problem, consult the chart; also con-
sider the following possibilities.
If yours is a gas heater, check that
the temperature control is on and is set
correctly (normally 160°F; lower if
there's no dishwasher). Should you
suspect a faulty control, test it by open-
ing a hot water faucet for 3 minutes. If
the heater doesn't turn on, reset the
control to a lower temperature and test
again. If it still fails, have it replaced.
Long pipe runs let water cool en
route to the faucet. You can insulate the
pipes, move the heater, or install a sec-
ond heater. Leaking hot water faucets
should be repaired (pages 113-118).
To save energy consider an insu-
lating foam or fiberglass heater jacket;
buy a kit, or buy materials and make
one from scratch.
Draining and flushing a tank. Turn off
the gas or electricity close the cold wa-
ter valve, and attach a hose to the drain
valve to route water into a floor drain or
outdoors. Open the drain valve and
open one hot water faucet somewhere
in the house to let in air. When all water
has drained, turn the cold water valve
on and off until the water from the drain
looks clear. Then close the drain valve
and the hot water faucet, open the cold
water valve, and restore power.
Gas heaters
Knowing how to light the pilot is one
key to living with a gas water heater;
see the instructions on the tank. For
safety a gas heater has a thermo-
couple, a thermoelectric device that im-
pinges on the pilot flame and shuts off
the gas if the pilot light goes out.
CAUTION: If you ever smell gas,
get out of the house immediately and
call the gas company
The gas flame should be blue. If
it's orange, adjust the shutter; if it's still
orange, call for service.
Twice a year, inspect the flue as-
sembly to be sure it's properly aligned
and all its joints are sealed. Then check
the flue by placing your hand near the
draft diverter (with the burner on); air
flowing out indicates an obstruction
that should be removed. Every year or
two, shut off the gas, remove the ac-
cess panel, and clean the burner ports,
using stiff wire or a needle.
Electric heaters
When an electric heater has problems,
suspect the heating elements, their
thermostats, and the high-temperature
cutoff. The two heating elements (up-
per and lower), immersed in water, are
controlled by thermostats which, along
with the high-temperature cutoff, are
concealed behind a panel on the side
(insulation must be cut away for access
after removing the panel). If the high-
temperature cutoff has tripped due to
water that's too hot, the solution may be
as easy as pushing the reset button.
High voltage and inaccessibility war-
rant a service call to adjust the thermo-
stats, reset the high-temperature cutoff,
or to replace any of these components
or the heating elements themselves.
A dishwasher has its full share of parts
that can become blocked, jammed, or
clogged. Let the drawing and the chart
guide you through the various prob-
lems and their remedies.
Very hot water—140 to 160°F—is
basic to good service from a dish-
washer.
Some dishwashers are equipped
with an air gap (see inset) to prevent
waste water from backing up into the
washer. Because it collects bits of
waste, the air gap must be cleaned reg-
ularly (remove the cap and cover and
use a wire). A dishwasher without an air
gap has a high loop in the drain hose;
be sure it's not kinked, and clear any
obstructions from it with a length of wire
when necessary
CAUTION: Before making repairs,
pull the plug from the receptacle. Turn
off the hot water valve under the sink
before working on the water inlet valve
or disconnecting the hot water hose.
When your washer doesn't work, think
first of the power supply. Be sure the
cord is plugged in and isn't defective
(pages 156-157); then check the fuse
or circuit breaker (pages 152-153).
A kinked water supply or drain
hose can be the culprit. Straighten the
kink; if you can't, replace the hose.
Oversudsing causes leaks and
blocks drains. To reduce the suds, pour
1/2 cup white vinegar mixed with some
cold water into the washer. Next time,
use less detergent (try a low-suds type).
Water temperature not right? Be
sure the faucets are fully open, screens
in the water inlet valve or hoses aren't
clogged, and there's lots of hot water.
If the washer won't spin or begins
to vibrate, the wash load may be too
large or out of balance. Try removing
some items or redistribute the load.
For causes and remedies of these
and other problems, see the chart.
CAUTION: Before making repairs,
pull the plug and turn off the faucets.
Dryers are classified according to the
kind of power that provides their heat -
either electricity or gas. But even a gas
dryer uses electricity for all its non-
heating actions. The parts of a dryer
are shown at right; the inset illustrates
the gas heater that heats a gas dryer.
When your dryer doesn't do its job,
look first to the basics. Is it plugged in?
Is the cord defective (pages 156-157)?
Has the dryer's fuse blown or circuit
breaker tripped (pages 152-153)?
Clean the lint trap and use a vac-
uum or a piece of wire to remove any
lint from the exhaust duct. If the load
seems too wet to dry efficiently put it
through the washer's spin cycle again.
For other problems and remedies,
see the chart below.
CAUTION: Before doing any work
on your dryer, pull the plug. Turn off the
gas supply to a gas dryer, at either the
appliance shutoff or the main shutoff
valve (page 9). Should you smell gas,
get out out the house immediately
A kitchen range has electric elements
or gas burners that provide heat to the
cooktop and oven. Most gas ranges
also have some electric features, such
as a clock and lights, and sometimes
an electric pilot.
If your electric range or the elec-
trical parts of your gas range don't
work, first check the fuse or circuit
breaker (pages 152-153). Also, be sure
the power cord and terminal block on a
freestanding range aren't defective.
Replace them if necessary
With an electric or a gas range, a
common complaint is unreliable oven
temperature. The thermostat that main-
tains oven temperature is part of the
oven control. If the thermostat fails,
have the entire control replaced. But if
it's only out of calibration, you may be
able to adjust it.
To gauge the problem, place an
accurate oven thermometer in the cen-
ter of a 350° oven. After 20 minutes,
check the reading. If it's more than
100° too high or too low, replace the
control. If the difference is less than
100°, pull the oven control knob off and
locate the calibration screw—either in-
side the hollow control shaft or on a
movable disc on the back of the knob.
Tighten or loosen the screw; keep test-
ing until the temperature is correct.
Electric ranges
The cooktop heating elements of most
modern electric ranges simply plug
into a receptacle, allowing for easy
cleaning or replacement. The same is
true of the baking and broiling ele-
ments. In some ovens, though, you'll
need to unscrew the brackets from the
oven wall and then unplug the element;
or pull it gently forward and then re-
move the wires from the terminals. Fi-
nally lift out the element.
If an element isn't working, check
for breaks or bubbles on the smooth
surface of the element. Check, too, for
corrosion on the terminals, as well as
for broken connections and scorched
wires or insulation near the element
receptacle.
CAUTION: Turn off power to the
range or, if necessary to the entire
circuit before making any electrical
checks or repairs.
Gas ranges
Whether on the cooktop or in the oven,
a gas burner that doesn't work may
lead you to a pilot that has gone out.
Pilots may be gas or electric (in the lat-
ter, a spark ignites the gas). Both types
are easily relighted (see your owner's
manual). A gas pilot that continually
goes out calls for cleaning and adjust-
ing, and perhaps gas company help.
The flame of a cooktop or oven
burner should be a bright, steady blue.
If it's not, you'll need to change the air-
gas ratio by adjusting the burner's air
shutter. To reach the shutter for a cook-
top burner, lift off the cooktop. You can
adjust an oven burner's shutter from
the compartment under the oven.
If the flame is jumpy loosen the
screw securing the shutter and gradu-
ally close it until the flame burns prop-
erly If the flame is a mixture of blue, yel-
low, and white, increase the air supply
by gradually opening the shutter. When
the flame is properly adjusted, tighten
the screw.
CAUTION: If you smell gas and the
pilots are lighted, get out of the house
immediately and call the gas company
from a neighbor's house.
Be sure to turn off the power to a
gas range if you'll be working on its
electrical parts.
Given conscientious routine care, a re-
frigerator will usually perform its task for
years, with a minimum of problems.
Refrigerators are categorized ac-
cording to the way frost is removed
from them.
A standard refrigerator defrosts
when the power is turned off and the
frost is permitted to melt slowly away on
its own—or with the aid of pans of hot
water placed in the freezer.
In a cycle-defrost model, a heater,
turned on when the temperature on the
evaporator reaches a preset point,
keeps the refrigerator compartment
free of frost, but the freezer requires
manual defrosting every few months.
In a frost-free refrigerator, frost
from both compartments is continually
melted away by a heater that turns on
for 20 to 30 minutes, two or three times
a day Clearly this type of refrigerator
offers the ultimate in convenience,
though it's somewhat more prone to
problems and is considered less
energy-efficient.
In both of the automatically de-
frosted models, water from the melting
frost flows out a drain in the floor of the
refrigerator and into a pan, where it
evaporates. It's not uncommon for food
particles to be carried along, clogging
the drain and causing odors. Clean the
drain regularly—remove the stopper,
use a pipe cleaner or similar device to
push any accumulations through to the
drain pan below, and force a solution
made from soap, ammonia, and water
through the drain. Finally, empty the
pan and wash it.
The door gasket, if washed often
with soapy water, will usually last as
long as the refrigerator. If you suspect
it's no longer sealing well, test it by
holding a dollar bill so it's caught in the
closed door; you should feel resistance
when you pull it out. Repeat the test in
several places. A gasket that doesn't
pass the test, or one that is obviously
cracked or torn, should be replaced.
Replacing it is no small task—you'll
need patience. Follow the manufac-
turer's directions.
Temperature settings for refrig-
erator and freezer compartments are
given arbitrary numbers (for example, 1
through 9, warmest to coldest) by man-
ufacturers, but generally 37°F is ideal
for the refrigerator compartment and
0°F for the freezer. If you suspect a
problem, test the temperatures with a
refrigerator or outdoor thermometer.
CAUTION: If you're making an
electrical repair, such as replacing a
door switch, be sure to turn off the
power to the refrigerator.
When a switch fails, it's usually be-
cause the contact points are worn or
have oxidized. When this happens, the
switch must be replaced. You can re-
place it with an exact duplicate or with a
dimmer or silent switch. Directions be-
low and on the facing page tell how to
replace most types of switches and
dimmers. Silent switches are simply
quiet versions of these types.
Types of switches. Most switches in
a home are single-pole or three-way.
Single-pole switches control a light or
receptacle from one location only and
have two screws of the same color.
Three-way switches operate in pairs to
control a light or receptacle from two
locations. They have two screws of the
same color, either brass or silver, and
one —called the common terminal
screw—of another color, either copper
or black. (The brass or silver screws of
a pair of switches connect the switches
to each other.) Both types of switches
are wired into hot wires only.
Both types may also have a set of
backwired terminals (shown at right) as
well as terminal screws. Attaching a
switch with backwired terminals is
easy; simply strip the wires (the wire-
stripping gauge on the back shows you
how much to strip) and push the ends
into the holes (see facing page).
Dimmer switches let you adjust the
brightness of a light. Wired like single-
pole switches, they have either terminal
screws or lead wires (see facing page).
Replacing a switch. When you're
buying a replacement, carefully read
the information stamped on the back of
the new switch; the new one should
have the same amp and voltage ratings
as the old.
If your home's wiring is aluminum,
use only replacement switches marked
CO/ALR. Replace unmarked switches
and switches marked CU/AL with
switches marked CO/ALR. Don't back-
wire switches to aluminum wiring; at-
tach aluminum wires to terminal screws
only
CAUTION: Always shut off the
power to the circuit (pages 152-153)
before you begin work. Use a, circuit
tester (page 22) to make sure the circuit
you're working on is dead before you
touch any wires.
If appliances or lamps that work
properly elsewhere won't work when
plugged into a particular receptacle,
and you've determined there's no
loose wiring or short circuit (page 155),
then the receptacle needs to be
replaced. Below and on the facing
page are instructions for replacing
receptacles.
How receptacles are wired. Most re-
ceptacles in a house have two outlets
(known as a duplex receptacle) and are
rated at 15 or 20 amps, 120 volts. One
or both outlets may be electrically live
at all times, or one or both may be con-
trolled by a wall switch. The receptacle
may be installed in the middle or at the
end of a circuit. The wiring arrange-
ment is different in each case.
Receptacles have three different-
colored terminal screws. Brass screws
are hot, white or silver screws are neu-
tral, and green ones are for grounding.
A receptacle may also be backwired. A
backwired receptacle, like a backwired
switch (pages 158-159), is easy to in-
stall; you simply insert stripped wire
ends into the terminal holes.
Receptacles may be grounding or
nongrounding types. Always replace a
receptacle with a grounding type un-
less there's no grounding wire in the
box or the box isn't grounded; then you
can use a nongrounding receptacle. To
install a grounding receptacle in an un-
grounded box, see the Sunset book
Basic Home Wiring Illustrated or con-
sult an electrician.
Because receptacles are rated for
a specific amperage and voltage, be
sure to replace an old one with an exact
duplicate. If possible, take the old
receptacle with you when you buy a
new one.
If your wiring is aluminum, your
receptacle must be designed to be
used with aluminum wire (look for the
letters CO-ALR). Use the terminal
screws only; backwiring is not suitable
for aluminum wires.
Replacing appliance receptacles.
These receptacles, rated from 15 to 50
amps, 240 volts and from 20 to 50
amps, 120/240 volts, each require a
special plug that will fit only that recep-
tacle. Take care when replacing appli-
ance receptacles; these have two hot
wires—usually red and black—going
to them. They may or may not have a
separate grounding wire.
CAUTION: Before beginning any
work, turn off the power to the circuit
(pages 152-153). For a 240-volt circuit,
you may have to remove two fuses or
trip a two-handled circuit breaker.
The parts of a typical doorbell system
are the push button, the door bell (or
chimes or buzzer), and the transformer.
The transformer allows the doorbell to
operate on low voltage (6 to 24 volts).
Wired into the doorbell circuit at a junc-
tion box, it steps down the voltage from
the regular 120-volt circuit.
The drawing at right shows how a
one-button doorbell system is wired.
When your doorbell doesn't ring, or
worse, rings constantly the problem
may lie in one of the parts or in the wires
that connect them.
NOTE: To diagnose most doorbell
problems, you'll need to have the
power source connected. But if you're
going to work on the transformer or the
wires in the junction box, be sure to
shut off the power to the circuit. (Re-
member that the input side of the trans-
former is high voltage—120 volts.)
A silent doorbell
One of a variety of problems—a faulty
transformer, push button, or bell, dirt in
the mechanism, or poor wiring—can
cause your doorbell not to sound. The
first place to look is at the source of
power. Make sure a fuse or circuit
breaker hasn't blown or tripped (pages
152-153). Once you're certain that the
120-volt side of the transformer is get-
ting power, shut off the power and
tighten all wire connections. Then turn
the power back on and check the low-
voltage side, following the steps below
to find the source of the trouble.
Testing the transformer. The best
and safest way to test whether the
transformer is functioning properly is to
use a volt-ohm meter (page 22). If the
transformer is working correctly, the
meter reading should match the sec-
ondary voltage (6 to 24 volts) marked
on the transformer or bell.
Set the voltage range on the meter
to 120 volts AC and measure the volt-
age between the two low-voltage termi-
nals on the transformer. If the meter
reads significantly higher than the cor-
rect secondary voltage, the trans-
former is defective and should be
replaced. If the reading is close to the
correct secondary voltage, test again
by setting the voltage range on the
meter to a lower value. If the new read-
ing doesn't agree with the voltage
marked on the transformer or bell, re-
place the transformer.
Testing the push button. To check
the button, disconnect the two wires
connected to it and short them by
touching their bare ends together. If
this makes the bell ring, the push but-
ton is defective and should be re-
placed. If the bell doesn't ring, the
problem is either in the bell or chime
mechanism itself or in the wiring.
Testing the bell or chime mech-
anism. Have a helper push the door-
bell button while you listen to the bell (or
chime). If it makes a buzzing or hum-
ming noise, it may be gummed up with
dirt. (For example, the striker shaft on a
chime mechanism can get stuck be-
cause of corrosion, dirt, or excessive
grease.) Check the mechanism and
clean it as necessary Use fine-grade
sandpaper to remove corrosion from
any contacts.
If the bell (or chime) still hums or
buzzes after cleaning, replace it. If it
didn't make any noise at all when the
button was pushed, disconnect the bell
(or chime) and, using new wire, hook it
up directly to the transformer. If it works,
inspect the old wiring. If it doesn't
sound, replace it.
Repairing the wiring. Examine the
wiring for breaks or frayed insulation
that may be causing the wires to short
out. Repair any breaks and wrap the
repairs with electrician's tape.
A constantly ringing doorbell
If a doorbell rings constantly either the
button is stuck or the wires going to the
button are shorted together.
To test the button, first turn off the
power to the transformer. Remove the
button from the door frame and discon-
nect one of the two wires connected to
it. Turn the power back on. If the bell
doesn't ring, the button should be re-
placed. If the bell rings, then the prob-
lem is a short between the two wires.
With the power turned off, ex-
amine the wires for frayed insulation or
bare wires rubbing together; use elec-
trician's tape to wrap them where nec-
essary If you can't find the short,
replace the wires.
Most plug-in incandescent lamps have
a socket, switch, cord, and plug. (In a
simple lamp like the one shown at right,
the switch is built into the socket.) Any
one of these parts may wear out and
need to be replaced.
To check a lamp that doesn't work,
first test the light bulb. Next, plug the
lamp into another receptacle to be sure
the receptacle isn't at fault. Check the
plug and cord for wear. To replace the
plug, see pages 156-157; to inspect
and replace the cord, see at right. If the
bulb, cord, and plug are in good shape,
use a continuity tester (page 22) to test
the socket. To replace the socket and
built-in switch, see at right. (If the lamp's
switch is attached to the cord, check it
and replace if faulty)
A lamp assembled with rivets
instead of nuts and bolts can't be taken
apart for repair, so you'll have to
replace it.
CAUTION: Before working on any
lamp, make sure it's unplugged.
Incandescent fixtures include many
styles of wall and ceiling-mounted
lights—from single-bulb globes to
chandeliers. They're connected di-
rectly to your home's wiring through a
recessed ceiling box hidden by the fix-
ture or by a decorative canopy Though
instructions here are for repairing and
replacing ceiling-mounted fixtures,
you'll use the same procedures for wall-
mounted styles.
When a fixture doesn't work, first
check the light bulb. Then check the
circuit and light switch (pages 154-155).
If the fixture is the problem, the cause
may be in the wiring or the socket.
Detach the fixture from the ceiling
box and check for a loose connection.
Tighten it if necessary If the fixture still
doesn't work, you'll have to either re-
place or repair it as described here and
on the facing page.
CAUTION: Before you work on
any fixture, shut off the power to the
entire circuit.
Replacing a fixture. The replacement
procedure is basically the same for all
types of fixtures. You simply detach the
old fixture and undo the wiring con-
nections, then make new ones and
attach the new fixture, as shown at
right. Wiring connections may be made
with wire nuts; if there are more than
just two black and two white wires, label
all wires and make a sketch before
undoing them.
NOTE: If the fixture is heavy have
a helper hold it; or hang it from the box
with a hook made from a wire coat
hanger.
You may have to buy new mount-
ing hardware to hang the new fixture. If
the ceiling box has a metallic stud, the
fixture may be attached to it with a
nipple and hickey a reducing nut, or a
strap (see below). If there's no stud, the
strap may be attached to the ceiling
box ears. Fixtures heavier than 10
pounds must be hung from a box with a
stud and nailed to the ceiling joists.
Repairing a fixture. Repair involves
removing and replacing the socket(s)
and/or wiring. Sockets in all types of fix-
tures may have terminal screws like a
lamp socket (page 163), or they may
have permanently attached wires as
shown in the center of the facing page.
Use a continuity tester (page 22) to
determine whether a socket is faulty
When you replace a socket, be sure
to connect wires of the same color
together.
On a chandelier, the sockets and
socket wires in the arms are connected
to a main cord running up the center.
Usually the connections are hidden in-
side the fixture body; you may have to
remove a cap or nut on the bottom to
reach them. Replace the main cord as
you would a lamp cord (page 163); to
replace the socket wires and sockets,
see the facing page. If you're replacing
only sockets or socket wires and not
the main cord, you can work with the
chandelier in place.
Unlike incandescent lights, which use
house current directly, fluorescent fix-
tures require a high-voltage current to
produce light. The working parts of a
fluorescent light fixture consist of fluo-
rescent tubes, a ballast (transformer)
that converts house voltage to a much
higher voltage, a tubeholder (socket),
and, on some fixtures, a starter that
assists the ballast in the initial starting
process (see illustration on facing
page).
The three types of fixtures are pre-
heat, rapid start, and instant start. On a
preheat fixture, an older style, the
starter is visible; it looks like a miniature
aluminum can. On a rapid-start fixture,
the starter is built into the ballast. An
instant-start fixture has no starter and is
distinguished by a tube with a single
pin on each end.
You can easily make most repairs
on a faulty fluorescent light fixture. Use
the chart below to help pinpoint the
cause of the problem. Tubes, ballasts,
tubeholders, and starters are the com-
ponents involved in most repairs;
usually you need only replace them.
But you must match replacement parts
to your fixture—parts are not inter-
changeable among the three different
types. Take the old parts with you when
you shop for new ones.
Replacing a fluorescent tube. Be-
fore you remove a fluorescent tube, be
sure to shut off the wall switch to the
fixture.
To remove a double-pin tube,
rotate it a quarter-turn in either direction
and gently pull it out. Install the new tube
by pushing it into the tubeholders and
then giving it a quarter-turn to lock it
into place.
Remove a single-pin tube from the
fixture by pushing the tube against the
spring-loaded tubeholder until the
other end can be removed. To install
the new tube, put the tube pin in the
spring-loaded tubeholder and push
until the other end can be inserted.
CAUTION: Should you acciden-
tally break a tube, handle the broken
pieces carefully; the coating on the
inside is poisonous.
Replacing a starter. Before you re-
place a starter, be sure to shut off the
wall switch to the fixture.
To replace a starter on a preheat
fixture, first remove the fluorescent
tube. Rotate the starter a quarter-turn
counterclockwise and pull it out of its
socket. Place the new starter in the
socket and rotate it a quarter-turn in the
clockwise direction.
Replacing a tubeholder or ballast.
Before you replace a tubeholder or bal-
last, shut off power to that circuit. Then
follow the steps illustrated below. To
connect the wires, you'll have to strip
about 1/2 inch of insulation from the end
of each wire and use wire nuts to con-
nect the ballast or tubeholder wires to
the fixture wires. If your new tubeholder
has push-in connections or terminal
screws instead of permanently con-
nected wires, connect the fixture wires
to these, rather than using wire nuts as
shown below. A new ballast will have
permanently connected wires.
A hallmark of many older homes,
steam heat begins in a boiler fueled by
gas, oil, or electricity The boiler turns
water into steam, which rises through
pipes to radiators or convectors. There
the steam gives up its heat and con-
denses into water, which returns to the
boiler
To maintain a steam heating sys-
tem in good condition, periodically
check the safety valve, steam pressure
gauge, and water level gauge, as ex-
plained below. Be sure to regularly in-
spect your burner (pages 176-179) and
thermostat (page 180) as well.
Some adjustments to a steam
heating system are within the scope of
the homeowner; others must be per-
formed by a professional. The chart
below describes problems you may en-
counter and how to remedy them.
Safety valve. Located on top of the
boiler, the safety valve allows steam to
escape if the pressure in the boiler ex-
ceeds safe levels. Test the valve every
month during the heating season by
depressing the handle (stand clear of
valve pipe); if steam doesn't come out,
have the valve replaced.
Steam pressure gauge. Check that
the pressure of the steam in the boiler,
as shown on the gauge, is within nor-
mal bounds—typically 2 to 10 pounds
per square inch (psi). If not, shut off the
boiler and call for service.
Water level gauge. Once a month,
open the valves at each end of the sight
glass in the gauge—the water level
should be in the middle of the glass.
(Be sure to close the valves after check-
ing.) If water is not visible, immediately
shut off the boiler and let it cool; then
add water by opening the fill valve on
the water inlet pipe, unless your system
has an automatic water fill valve. In that
case, call for service.
To remove the sight glass for
cleaning or replacement, shut off the
valves and undo the collar nuts at each
end of the glass. Install new gaskets
when you reassemble the unit.
In a hot water heating system, water
heated in a boiler travels through a net-
work of pipes to the heat distributors
(usually convectors or radiators) where
the heat is given off. The cooled water
then returns to the boiler through the
return pipe.
In older homes, the movement of
water is governed by gravity—warmer,
lighter water rises and takes the place
of heavier, cooler water. The more mod-
ern hydronic systems employ a circu-
lating pump to move the water under
pressure; a thermostat governs the
operation of the pump as well as the
burner.
An expansion tank, usually
mounted above the boiler, contains air
and water; the air acts as a cushion to
maintain heated water at the proper
pressure.
With routine maintenance, a mod-
ern hot water heating system will give
you many years of trouble-free service.
Check the system periodically; at the
same time, take a look at the burner
(pages 176-179) and the thermostat
(page 180).
If some parts of the house are too
cold or too hot, follow the directions on
the facing page to balance the system.
Other problems you may encounter are
discussed in the troubleshooting chart
on the facing page.
Maintaining the system
With regular maintenance and in-
spection, especially during the heating
season, you can correct problems with
a boiler that's not operating properly or
with heat distributors that aren't work-
ing to capacity because air is trapped
inside.
Checking the gauges. Mounted on
the boiler are two gauges, one for water
temperature and another for pressure,
or altitude (sometimes they're com-
bined in a single housing, as illustrated
above).
Water temperature is determined
by the design of the system and the set-
tings of the limit controls on the boiler.
Adjusting the temperature is a job for a
professional.
The pressure gauge (illustrated on
facing page) provides a check on the
water level. The fixed pointer, set when
the system was installed, is a reference
point for water level. The moving
pointer indicates current water level
and should align with the fixed one
when the water is cold.
If the moving pointer reads higher,
drain some water from the expansion
tank (see facing page). If it's lower
and you have no pressure reducing
valve, add water through the water in-
let valve until the pointers are aligned.
In a system equipped with a pres-
sure reducing valve, water level should
be maintained automatically If draining
the expansion tank doesn't work or if
the water level is too low, consult a
professional.
Draining the expansion tank. A pres-
sure gauge that reads high or a tank
that feels hot indicates there's too little
air in the expansion tank. Draining
some of the water from the tank, as
shown on the facing page, will restore
the proper air-water ratio. You can do
the job yourself, unless you have a
diaphragm tank; in that case, call for
service.
To drain the tank, turn off the
power and the water to the boiler; let
the water in the tank cool. Attach a hose
to the combination valve and open it.
Let water flow out until the pointers on
the pressure gauge coincide. Close the
valve and restore power and water.
Checking the relief valve. This valve
releases excess pressure. Once a
month, lift the valve lever; if no water
flows from the valve, replace it.
Bleeding the convectors or radi-
ators. Convectors and radiators won't
heat properly if air is trapped inside. If
your units don't have automatic air
valves, you'll need to bleed the air from
them (see illustration) at the beginning
of each heating season, whenever you
add water to the system, or if a con-
vector or radiator remains cold when it
shouldn't.
Depending on the type of valve,
use a wrench, screwdriver, or special
key to open the valve. When water
spurts out, close the valve.
Balancing the system
Unless your system has zone controls
that automatically control water tem-
perature in specific areas, you may
need to balance your system to com-
pensate for overly cold or overly warm
rooms.
Turn the system on and let room
temperatures stabilize before you start.
To adjust a convector or radiator, grad-
ually open or close the balancing valve
on that branch or the inlet valve on the
affected convector or radiator (see at
right). Be patient—it may take several
days of adjustments to bring the sys-
tem into balance.
Low installation cost, fast heat delivery,
and reliability make forced warm-air
systems a popular heating choice. The
system is also very versatile, lending it-
self to the addition of central air condi-
tioning (page 183).
In this system, a blower pulls air
from the rooms into the cold-air return
and return duct, through a filter, and
into the furnace. There the air is heated.
It then flows back to the rooms through
the warm-air ducts and registers.
For maximum efficiency clean the
system (see below) and inspect the
burner (pages 176-179) and thermo-
stat (page 180). A system that's work-
ing inefficiently can be adjusted, as ex-
plained on the facing page. For other
problems, see the chart.
Caring for the system
To ensure trouble-free operation, ser-
vice the system as follows:
• Clean or replace the filter monthly
during the heating season.
• Brush and vacuum heat exchanger
surfaces annually (see owner's
manual for instructions).
• Clean the blower blades at the start
of each heating season; add a few
drops of motor oil to each oil cup if
your blower is equipped with them.
• Check and adjust the belt align-
ment and tension (see illustrations
below) if your furnace has a belt-
driven blower. To replace a worn
belt, loosen the motor adjustment
bolt, remove the old belt, and attach
a new one. Adjust as shown.
• Examine the ducts annually for
leaks; seal any leaks with duct tape.
Balancing the heat
If some rooms are too hot or too cold,
try adjusting the dampers in the regis-
ters and, if your system has them, the
dampers in the warm-air ducts.
Leaving the thermostat at one set-
ting, let the system run for 3 hours to
stabilize the temperatures. Open the
dampers wide in the coldest rooms.
Then adjust the dampers room by
room until temperatures are balanced.
Wait half an hour after each adjustment
before rechecking or readjusting.
Speeding up the blower may help
heat chronically cold rooms. Adjust the
motor pulley of a belt-driven blower
(see facing page, bottom) or,
for a direct-drive blower, change the
electrical connections (see owner's
manual).
Setting the fan control
If you're chilled by a blast of cool air
when the blower turns on, try adjusting
the fan control (see at right). A word of
caution: If your furnace has a combina-
tion fan and limit control, do not touch
the pointer on the limit control side. This
pointer turns off the furnace if the max-
imum allowable air temperature is ex-
ceeded.
As the blower turns on, hold your
hand in front of the warm-air register
farthest from the furnace. Ideally your
hand should feel neither cooler nor
warmer. If it feels cooler, uncover the
control and move the fan control's ON
pointer a few degrees higher. Check
and readjust as necessary
Conduct a similar test to increase
fuel efficiency but check the air just be-
fore the blower shuts off. If your hand
feels warmer, move the OFF pointer a
few degrees lower.
Extremely common for home heating
use, gas burners can fuel warm-air, hot
water, or steam heating systems.
When the thermostat in the system
calls for heat, the burner's automatic
gas valve opens, allowing gas to flow
into a manifold and then into venturi
tubes where it mixes with air. When the
air-gas mixture emerges from the
burner ports, the pilot ignites it and heat
is created. A thermocouple adjacent to
the pilot closes the gas valve if the pilot
isn't working.
Whether fueled by natural, manu-
factured, or bottled or liquefied petro-
leum gas, gas burners are generally
reliable and require little routine mainte-
nance. Problems you may encounter
are discussed below and in the chart
on the facing page.
Solving pilot problems
Pilots in gas burners may be electric or
gas. For problems with electric pilots,
call in a professional. Gas pilots can be
relit and cleaned by the homeowner.
Lighting a gas pilot. Before you try to
relight a pilot that has gone out, read
the instructions usually printed on the
front of the boiler or furnace. If there are
none, have your utility company light it
or follow these steps:
Use the manual control knob on
the automatic gas valve to turn off the
gas to the main burner and pilot. Allow
at least 5 minutes for accumulated gas
to dissipate before proceeding. Use
extreme caution—and take more time
—if your fuel is bottled gas; it doesn't
dissipate readily
When the gas has dissipated, set
the thermostat well below room tem-
perature. Turn the manual control knob
to PILOT and light the pilot, holding the
knob there for a minute. Release the
knob and turn it to ON. If the pilot
doesn't stay on, refer to the chart on the
facing page or call the gas company
(Remember to reset the thermostat
when the pilot's relit.)
Adjusting the pilot flame. The pilot
flame should be blue and should cover
the thermocouple. Before adjusting the
flame (see facing page, bottom), turn
the thermostat down; reset it when
you're done.
Cleaning the pilot orifice. If you have
trouble lighting the pilot, the orifice may
be plugged. To clean it, first shut off the
gas supply by turning the gas inlet
valve handle so it's at a right angle to
the pipe. Next, disconnect the thermo-
couple tube and the pilot gas line from
the automatic gas valve. Then remove
the bracket holding the pilot and the
thermocouple.
Use stiff wire to clean the orifice
(be careful not to chip it). Reattach the
bracket, pilot gas line, and thermo-
couple tube. Turn on the gas and relight
the pilot.
Cleaning the burners
Clogged gas burners and ports heat
inefficiently Clean them at the start of
the heating season.
To reach the ports, shut off the gas
inlet valve and remove the bracket
holding the pilot and thermocouple.
Remove any screws or nuts holding the
burners and maneuver them out of the
combustion chamber.
To clean the burners, scour them
with a stiff wire brush; clean the burner
ports with stiff wire that' s slightly
smaller than the diameter of the
openings.
After cleaning, reassemble the
burners in the combustion chamber, re-
placing any screws or nuts that se-
cured the burners. Then mount the
bracket holding the pilot and thermo-
couple. Turn on the gas and relight the
pilot (see facing page). Be sure to
adjust the air-gas ratio, as explained
below.
Adjusting the burners
For maximum efficiency, burners
fueled with natural gas should burn
with a bright blue flame that has a soft
blue green interior and no yellow tips.
(Check with your gas company for the
correct colors for other types of gas.)
To correct the air-natural gas ratio,
you'll need to adjust the air shutters.
Turn up the thermostat so the burners
light and loosen the lock screws. Slowly
open each shutter until the flames are
bright blue, then close the shutters
gradually until yellow tips appear.
Slowly reopen the shutters until the yel-
low tips just disappear; tighten the
screws.
Two types of oil burners are used to pro-
duce heat in warm-air, hot water, and
steam heating systems for the home.
The most common is the pressure, or
gun-type, burner; the vaporizing, or
pot-type, burner is used only in small
furnaces.
Most oil burners run for years with
few problems. For maximum efficiency
call in a professional every year to
service your burner. Check a pressure-
type burner regularly during the heat-
ing season and clean it as necessary;
for the causes and remedies of com-
mon burner problems, see the chart on
the facing page. Most problems with
vaporizing burners are best left to a
professional.
How oil burners work
When the thermostat of a heating
system equipped with a pressure-type
burner demands heat, the burner
motor turns on, pumping filtered fuel oil
under pressure through a nozzle, form-
ing a mist. At the same time, the
burner's blower forces air through the
draft tube where it mixes with the oil
mist. As the mixture enters the com-
bustion chamber, it's ignited by a high-
voltage spark between two electrodes
located at the end of the draft tube.
When a vapori zi ng burner is
turned on, the oil control valve opens.
allowing oil to pool in the pot. An elec-
tric spark ignites the oil, and the heat of
the burning oil causes more oil to
vaporize. These vapors combine with a
blower-induced or natural air draft and
the mixture burns in the combustion
chamber.
If the oil in either type of burner
does not ignite, the burner is turned off
by a flame sensor in the burner or by a
heat sensor on the stack control
attached to the flue. This prevents the
boiler or furnace from being flooded
by oil.
Servicing your burner
Professional service that includes a
thorough inspection and cleaning of
your burner, as well as a check of its
efficiency, shoul d be carri ed out
annually
To keep repair and fuel bills at a
minimum, inspect and clean your
pressure-type burner several times
between service calls. Lubricate the
motor and blower bearings by pouring
oil in the oil cups if the motor and
blower are equipped with them. Clean
the blower, oil strainer, and sensors
and, when necessary replace the filter
and gasket (see at right and on facing
page). Be sure to turn off the power to
the burner before you begin work.
Modern thermostats for heating or air
conditioning systems rarely break
down. The only maintenance required
is an occasional light cleaning. Don't at-
tempt to repair a defective thermostat;
instead, replace the entire unit with a
new one. Be sure the replacement is
the correct voltage and type for your
system.
To install a new thermostat, follow
the illustrations below.
How thermostats work. Thermostats
are switches that are turned on by a
temperature-sensitive device that, in
turn, activates the switch controlling the
operation of a boiler, furnace, electric
heater, air conditioner, or other heating
or cooling device. Low-voltage and mil-
livolt thermostats are the most common
types.
The three principal parts of a ther-
mostat are the heat sensor, the switch,
and, in low-voltage types only the heat
anticipator. The sensor, usually a bi-
metal coil, contracts as it cools, tripping
the switch to "on," and expands as it
warms, tripping the switch to "off."
The switch may have open con-
tacts (in older models) or a mercury-
type contact enclosed in an airtight
glass tube. The anticipator prevents the
living area from overheating by shut-
ting off the boiler or furnace just before
the desired temperature is reached.
Cleaning a thermostat. Gentle clean-
ing will help keep a thermostat operat-
ing efficiently
First, you'll need to remove the
cover of the thermostat. Then follow
the instructions below to dust the heat
sensor and, if your thermostat has
them, exposed contact points and
switch contacts.
Air conditioners are a blessing in hot
climates. Not only do they cool the air,
but many dehumidify and filter the air
as well. The two most common types of
air conditioning systems for the home
are evaporative and refrigerated. Both
can cool just a single room or an entire
house; most types are controlled by a
thermostat.
Evaporative air conditioners, also
called swamp coolers, work well in dry
desert regions. Refrigerated units,
though more expensive to purchase
than evaporative ones, are the only
way to cool air in other than desert cli-
mates. Included in the category of re-
frigerated units are both room air condi-
tioners, fitted into a wall or window, and
central air conditioning (page 183). An-
other type of refrigerated system, a
heat pump, cools and heats a house
(see below).
The energy cost of most air condi-
tioning systems is high. For this reason,
it's important that your system be prop-
erly maintained and, if necessary ser-
viced by a professional.
The descriptions below and on the
next pages will help you become famil-
iar with the different systems. To ensure
long, reliable operation, be sure to fol-
low the few simple maintenance steps
outlined for your particular system.
In hot, dry areas, evaporative air condi-
tioners are the most efficient way to
cool a home. The unit is mounted in full
sun on the roof or beside the house.
Inside the unit, water is sprayed on
porous, absorbent blankets. Hot out-
side air pulled through the blankets by
a blower causes the water to evapo-
rate, cooling the air. The cool air then
enters the house, forcing stale air out
through open windows.
With conscientious maintenance,
you can expect few problems. At the
beginning of each cooling season, and
more often if you see a mineral buildup
from the evaporated water, thoroughly
clean the unit, oil the pump and blower,
and replace the blankets. Also, check
and adjust the blower belt; if it' s
cracked or worn, replace it as for a belt
in a warm-air furnace (page 174).
HOW A HEAT PUMP WORKS
Basically, a heat pump is a refriger-
ated air conditioning system in which
the air flow is instantly reversible.
During warm weather, the pump
draws heat from the air inside the
house, cooling it and transferring the
heat to the outside or to a large solar
mass. During cool weather, the flow is
reversed—heat extracted from the
outside air or from a large solar mass
heats the air inside the house. Once
the thermostat is set at the desired
temperature, the heat pump auto-
matically heats or cools your house as
required.
In climates where temperatures
below 0°F are common, either elec-
tric heating elements or some other
supplemental heat source is required.
Whenever the heat pump cannot ex-
tract enough heat from the outside air,
the supplemental system turns on.
If you add an electric air cleaner
and, to compensate for dry winter air,
a humidifier, your heat pump system
will provide clean air at the correct
temperature and humidity for 24
hours a day.
Be sure to keep the outdoor por-
tion of the heat pump free of snow and
debris. Occasionally check the blower
and filter, and replace the filter
monthly when in use.
All refrigerated air conditioners,
whether individual room units or central
systems, operate according to the
same principle: they extract heat and
moisture from the room air, cooling and
dehumidifying it, then return the air to
the room. Refrigerant, the same sub-
stance that's used in a refrigerator, cir-
culates through the system.
How refrigerated systems work. In-
side a refrigerated air conditioner are a
compressor, evaporator or cooling
coils, a condenser, and connecting
tubing; all are filled with refrigerant. Liq-
uid refrigerant forced through a nozzle
expands and partially vaporizes into a
gas. The gas then flows through the
evaporator coils, cooling the coils so
they extract heat and moisture from the
room air (the moisture condenses on
the coils).
The warm gas then flows into the
compressor, where the gas is heated
by compression so it exceeds the
outside temperature. From the com-
pressor, the hot gas enters the con-
denser. There, the hot condenser coils
dissipate heat to the outside, and the
gas condenses into a liquid, ready to
repeat the cycle.
Types of refrigerated air condi-
tioners. One type, a room air condi-
tioner, is very easy to operate; units can
be installed in as many rooms as
needed. Another type is central air con-
ditioning, which either can be an inde-
pendent system with its own blower
and ducts or can be combined with a
forced warm-air heating system (pages
174-175), in which case it uses the
same blower and ducts as the heating
system.
Room air conditioners
A room air conditioner is mounted in a
window or wall; most of the unit projects
outside the house.
A blower in the unit sucks warm
room air through a filter protected by a
large inlet grill on the front of the unit;
cool, dehumidified air returns to the
room through outlet grills. Water con-
densing on me evaporator coils drains
outside, and a fan blows outside air
around the condenser coils to dissipate
heat.
Little maintenance is required.
During the cooling season, clean the
filter and condenser coils every month
(see facing page, bottom); replace the
filter as necessary. You can reach the
filter either through a slot on the side or
top or by removing the grill. To reach
the condenser, remove the back of the
outside housing. Problems with the re-
frigeration system are best left to a pro-
fessional.
Central air conditioners
Though the initial expense is higher,
central air conditioning is generally
more efficient, quieter, and less costly
in the long run than individual room
units.
In a house without forced warm-air
heat, a central air conditioner can be a
single unit installed next to the house or
a split unit, with the condenser and
compressor outdoors and the evapo-
rator and blower inside.
For a house heated with forced
warm air, the most economical installa-
tion is a split system (see at right). The
evaporator is mounted in the plenum of
the furnace, and the condenser and
compressor are located outside the
house.
To ensure efficient operation,
clean the filter every month during the
cooling season; replace the filter as
necessary Check that the condensate
drain is clear and that the condenser
and evaporator coils are clean. When
you vacuum the coils, be careful not to
damage or deform the fins.
For problems with the operation of
your air conditioning system, see the
chart below. Call in a professional to re-
pair the refrigeration system.