Waterproofing
Content
Bathroom - Waterproofing
Share Bathrooms are the major wet area in the house and it is important that the bathroom is correctly waterproofed in order to reduce the risk of structural damage occurring as a result of dampness, water leaks, or condensation.
Requirements for Waterproofing Bathrooms
The Building Code of Australia and the Australia Standard (AS 3740-1994) outline the minimum requirements for the waterproofing in residential bathrooms. These requirements include: • • • •
•
waterproofing the full floor within the shower recess at least 100mm over the hob or step down onto the bathroom floor should be waterproofed at least 150mm up the walls inside the shower walls needs to be waterproofed the vertical angle between any two walls in the shower needs to be waterproofed up to at least 1800mm high the entire bathroom floor needs to be waterproofed if it is made from timber, plywood or particleboard, or if it is above the ground floor of the house
However, to provide the best insurance against water damage, it is a good idea to go beyond these minimum requirements and ensure that all of the walls within the shower recess are waterproofed as well as the entire bathroom floor. Be aware also that some councils will require that waterproofing be done by licensed waterproofing applicators so you should check with your local council before any waterproofing work is undertaken.
The Process of Waterproofing
It is vitally important that all the surfaces within the bathroom are correctly prepared and primed. Especially of importance are any joins between the wall and floor, between the walls themselves, and around any drains in the floor. Ensure that the surfaces are smooth and free of any loose particles, which may affect the integrity of the waterproofing membrane. A polyester reinforcement mat should be fit into all the internal corners of the shower recess, such as the junctions between the wall and floor, the hob and the floor, and the corner formed by two walls meeting. The waterproofing membrane will then be applied to all surfaces. Once the first coat has been applied, an hour or two will be required before the second coat can be applied. The second coat should be applied in a different direction to the first – for example, if the first coat was put on vertically, the second should be horizontal. Do not use the bathroom until the waterproofing has had a chance to fully cure – this can be as long as five days, depending on your climate.
2.
Waterproofing Bathrooms
Waterproofing "How To" Sheets - Waterproofing BathroomsDownload this file
Old floors and cement sheeting may require a vapour barrier preparation
Prior to waterproofing the bathroom, some floors may require a vapour barrier to be installed. The vapour barrier to stop moisture from below lifting the waterproofing membrane. Two part water based epoxy products are ideal for this purpose.
Materials for the job
• • •
Poly urethane for corking Poly cloth reinforcing fabric Fibreflex waterproofing membrane
Cut in joints
• •
Cork joints with poly urethane apply reinforcing fabric
1. Apply Fibreflex to surface and lay Polycloth into the corners, smoothed into the wet surface.
2. Apply a coat of Fibreflex over the surface of the Polycloth ensuring the coaring penetrates the fibres of the Polycloth.
3. Repeat the process for the vertical corners.
4. Apply a second coat of Fibreflex to the entire area.
Membrane covering walls and floor
Coat the entire shower area. Two coats over walls and floor.
Reference diagrams from the standard
AS3740 - waterproofing of wet area within residential buildings.
www.conpro.com.au/advice/waterproofing-bathrooms/
3.
Bathroom waterproofing- A detail of the bath / wall layout.
I believe that the most important thing I did in the whole renovatin was the bathroom waterproofing job, to do it well and to get it inspected and approved before I covered it up with ceramic tiles.
Partly of course I did it because I was going to sell the house when my small renovation project was complete, and so I needed that waterproofing certificate along with all the other paperwork to reassure prospective purchasers. The main reason though is that I have seen some terrible disasters when the old style waterproofing measures break down. Water running under walls and rotting out carpets in adjacent rooms. Water persistently ruining ceilings below.
Bathroom Waterproofing, Wet Area Walls and floor.
The BCA requires that all new wet areas, that is kitchen splash back, laundry, WC and bathrooms be waterproofed with an approved flexible membrane system, prior to the fixing of ceramic tiles. On new houses inspections are required before proceeding with the ceramic tiling. Otherwise excellent bathroom work has in the past failed the test of time, due to building movement. Different rates of movement between the bathroom floors and walls. Sometimes the internal walls are a different construction to the external bathroom walls. There are many different kits for doing the job. I got my waterproofing and tiles from a shop that imports quality tiles from Italy and Europe, and I went with the Mapei (Italian manufacturer) system, for both the bathroom waterproofing and the tile adhesive. I prefer to get materials like this from a specialist shop, rather than a general hardware store. A few words of informed advice from someone who has "been there and done that", can make all the difference. Here is a quote from Mapei tech sheet "Mapegum WPS is a ready-to-use, solvent-free, single component, grey-coloured paste with a base of synthetic resins in water dispersion. Mapegum WPS has a thixotropic consistency which makes it easy to apply on horizontal, sloping and vertical surfaces. After rapid evaporation of the water content, Mapegum WPS forms a flexible membrane which is not sticky and which is strong enough to withstand light pedestrian traffic. It also forms an excellent surface which bonds perfectly to adhesives used for laying ceramics" The real break though with these type of products is indicated by the word "flexibility".
Bathroom waterproofing- Detail of the floor-wall joint.
On our first house (timber frame) I fixed the ceramic tiles in the bathroom and WC onto two layers of 6mm flat cement wall sheets. After about 3 years a crack appeared in each tiled wall, straight on the joint line of the cement sheets, which happened to be right in the middle of a tile. What a bummer! The tiles were set solid, but the expansion, contraction and other movements in the timber frame inevitably caused something to give. The movement was probably very small, but white shiny ceramic tiles being what they are, the cracks stuck out like dogs balls. The point I am making is that if I could have used one of the modern flexible bathroom waterproofing compounds that are available today, the cracking of those tiles would not have happened. The bathroom would still be acceptable.
Bathroom waterproofing - Detail at the front of the bath.
So, even if you don't have to comply with any bathroom waterproofing regulations, I highly recommend you waterproof your bathroom before fixing the ceramic tiles. Don't build it good enough for the next five years, until you sell the house! Build it to last. Waterproofing is cheap and easy to do. If you can use a paint roller and a brush you can do it. It is definitely messy, but the good thing is that it is water clean up. The BCA is quite complex in the minimum areas to be waterproofed, with variations where there are showers screens or not, whether the floor is concrete or some other construction etc. etc. In my case the minimum area to waterproof would have been 1500 radius from the floor waste with turn ups of 150 at the included walls and all around the bath. All around the bath/shower area to a min. height of 1800. If no shower screen is fitted the min. width should be 1500 from shower head. I did the whole floor and and almost all the walls to a height of 2000. (I purposely left the bit behind the cupboard, in case I ran out of material, and sure enough I had a small patch that didn't get covered).
I don't see any point in trying to save the odd square metre here or there as the regs are quite complex so it is always better to do extra rather than get a knock back and have to do extra, along with the delay and extra inspection fee. My tile height was 2100 (top of door frame). If I had been cheap and only done the exact area that the code requires I might have saved $30. Here's how I did it:• • • Removed all loose surface material to the area being done. Broom and wipe down with wet sponge. Primed the whole area with Mapei primer. (roller and brush). Which is a watery milky looking liquid that runs like hell. Soaks in and dries clear. Applied the first coat of the compound, which is half way between thick paint and butter in consistency. As they say in the blurb, it is thixotropic. I again used a long nap roller and paintbrush. Top gun tilers use trowels, faster and easier to clean. The coat shouldn't be too thick though. 1mm thick is the recommended thickness. The following morning I set in the reinforcing strips of fiberglass tape over all the corner joints, walls to walls and walls to floor. The tape looks for all the world like a paper kitchen towel roll, but it is a very strong fiberglass material. The roll is 150 (6") wide. I worked on one corner at a time, painting the area with compound, laying in the tape, dabbing it into position with the brush. This job is fairly messy, I use rubber gloves. The material does'nt go off very quickly, so you have a good amount of time to pull any twisted or wrinkled pieces off and to start again. When I was happy that all the corners were taped up OK I did a final roller and brush coat over all the lot again. That was it finished, two full coats everywhere and extra at the corners bedding in the fiberglass tape,
• • • • •
• •
Bathroom waterproofing
It's a poor photo again, a wider angle would have been nice. Here is it ready for the inspection. Note the fan in the window, it is a cheap floor fan that I tied temporarily in place to suck out dust.
www.builderbill-diy-help.com/bathroom-waterproofing.html
4.
FIBREGLASS WATERPROOFING Our long expertise in working with fibreglass allows us to apply our knowledge and experience in offering a new range of products. Waterproofing is essential in modern plasterboarding (stud wall) construction techniques. It can also be used for flat roofs and balconies to prevent ingress of water. Suitable for wetrooms, showers, bathrooms and many other applications, both inside and out. We have recently completed remedial fibreglass waterproofing for a number of hotel room bathrooms where potential water ingress would be of major concern and mean substantial loss of revenue for the operators. We also offer a full fibreglass floor covering service for the domestic and commercial markets.
5.
How to waterproof bathroom: For bathrooms with concrete floors, waterproof bathroom with liquid waterproofing membrane Urethane/Acrylic system: DAY 1 (After checking that drains are connected and set flush) Scrape, Sweep, Gerni (if walls rendered) or vacuum
DAY 2
(Or when dry) Seal shower corners to 2m, perimeters up 150 and around drains and pipes with Multiseal. Caulk floor perimeters and up 150, with fine bead in shower corners, also around drains and pipes. Brush Multithane up 150 around walls and shower areas. Multiseal the rest of the floor (provided day 3 is the next day). When dry, brush Multithane up 150 around walls and the shower areas (second coat), and then roll the main coat at 1.5li/sqm. (Must follow day 2 in summer; you will most likely have to wait till the next day in winter, or longer if still tacky) After priming with Duroprime ARW, apply first coat of acrylic to shower walls. Cut and bed 20 x 25 aluminium angle with PU25 urethane sealant and seal at sides to the doorway and to isolate the shower floor. (Alternatively, fix angle at the beginning of Day 2, bedding with PU25). Second coat of ACS to shower walls. Provided fully cured and no tackiness, (cure time dependant on temperature and humidity), plug drains and fill with water to 50mm. (After checking OK) Remove plugs. Start tiling floor. Provided acrylic is quite dry, start tiling walls. Solvent based urethane chemically cures to rubber. Water based acrylic dries out. Any heater will accelerate the drying of the acrylic but the urethane needs hot air blown over wet hessian or cloth to humidify, as well as warm, in order to speed up the cure. If the membrane is firm but still tacky, throw dry sand and lay plastic so you can then walk on it. Instead of solvent based urethane, you can use water based membranes, eg. SBR latex such as Durabit EF or urethane modified acrylic such as Duromastic P15, for the floor and perimeters and also for the shower walls, starting with the latter but otherwise as above. After the mortar bed has dried, it is good practice to caulk around the perimeter with Wrimco PU25 sealant and apply ARW followed by 2 coats of ACS to the mortar bed, particularly in the shower area. This prevents discolouration of porous tiles such as travertine, marble and efflorescence at the joints.
DAY 3
DAY 4
DAY 5
DAYS 6-7 NB.
ALTERNATE SYSTEM
link : Wrimco approved licensed applicators
6.
aterproofing of Bathrooms / Toilets / Pantry / Kitchen / AHU
METHODOLOGY STATEMENT Surface Preparation:
Top of Form
Quick links to products
Select Product
Bottom of Form
Tot al Surfaces to be waterproofed must be sound, clean, free of dust, paint, curing agents, loose plaster debris etc. Honeycombs should be opened up to ensure uninterrupted and even coating of waterproofing application.Wa An ter existing waterproofing membrane/ coating to be removed completely. All final cleaning will be carried out pro with pressurized water. Apart from cleaning this will ensure that all pores, capillaries, pores and voids etcofi will be filed with water which is essential prior to treatment with Koster’s cement based crystalline waterproofing ng systems. Sol
All static cracks wider than 1 mm. in the substrate must be opened up to 12 mm X 12 mm. and treated with a on mix of cement/sand mix with Koster S B Bonding emulsion and water at least 24 hours to application. s Fillets: Similarly at all the junctions of the parapet wall and the slab, the fillets must be built up with a mix of cement/sand/quartz sand mix with Koster S B Bonding emulsion and water at least 24 hours prior to the application.
for
uti
Bas em ent (po Down take / Pipe Insertions: Pipe inserts must be installed prior to the application of the Koster NB\Koster NB Elastic waterproofing siti system. At the opening in the slab around the pipe the substrate should be similarly opened up by cutting ve) back around the pipes to give sufficient depth and cleaned thoroughly. This must be then built up with a mix ofBas cement/sand mix with Koster S B Bonding emulsion and water at least 24 hours prior to application. . em ent Construction Joints: (ne Finally dampen all the surface areas thoroughly with clean water, as this is necessary prior to the application gati of the Koster NB system. The dampness in the substrate will ensure that the chemical reaction between the ve) Koster NB system and the chemicals in the concrete substrate takes place completely. However the Act application of the Koster NB system should not be made over standing or running water. ive MIXING AND APPLICATION: lea Materials: ks Koster NB cement based crystalline based waterproofing system in Koster NB Elastic cement based crystalline based waterproofing system bas SB Bonding Emulsion liquid em Water ent/ Brushes ret aini Mixing: ng To one bag of Koster NB I (25 kg), add 7 - 8 liters of water premixed with 10 % SB Bonding Emulsion. Mix wal thoroughly to a slurry consistency. The system is now ready for application. l The powder and the liquid components of the Koster NB Elastic system must be mixed together. Mix Lea thoroughly to a slurry consistency. The system is now ready for application. kin Application: g The Koster NB system is brush applied, on to the already damped surface. The brush on is done in 2 coats. . cab The coverage is 0.60 kg per sq. meter per coat and each coat is done perpendicular to each other. After the 1st le coat there should be a gap of 12 – 24 hours before the 2nd coat is applied. Prior to the 2nd coat application the slee 1st coat surface should be dampened thoroughly to ensure that the chemical reaction is complete. No water ves curing is required. The finished surface should be left exposed for 48 hours for positive side treatment and 4 Wa days for negative side after which further build up works can be carried out. tert For treatment on Bathrooms it is recommended that the treatment extend upto the shower spout level in the ank shower areas and extend 1.00 mt from the base in the other areas. This will ensure that all the weak points are s covered completely and the surface is completely watertight. The vertical termination height for the kitchen (O and AHU’s will be finalized as per site requirements. ver hea d/ Un der
www.chowgulekoster.com
slab construction
Concrete Slab-Concrete Slab Construction Video
Concrete Slab Construction Concrete Slabs DVD Concrete Slab Video. Water down the grade a day before pouring concrete and prior to pouring concrete slab, preventing water from being absorbed from the concrete mixture. Have a designated area for the Ready-mix truck to wash out, or wheelbarrow. Delivery drivers will put there own shoots on and discharge concrete. Let the driver know what slump you want before pouring concrete slab. Most drivers should be able to accommodate the desired slump(Moisture content). (6 inch slump min. 7 inch slump max. suggested) Time is a factor, don't waist any time pouring out, Rodded off and Tamped. Note; (The longer it takes the faster the concrete slab will set.) Have enough help with you leveling the concrete as your pouring the slab. Pour 1/3 of the concrete slab, Stop, Rod off. Then repeat this process until done. Do not over pour! Start Tamping. While Tamping, your helpers can use a Magnesium float to level the edges to existing concrete slab and forms. After Tamping, your concrete slab or driveway should Bleed. (Bullfloat after Bleeding minimizes.) Not Bleeding, Bullfloat immediately . Starting from where you started the pour, Bullfloat the concrete slab in two different directions, if possible, to assure a level surface. Then, edge perimeters of the drive with a Walking Edger. Edging, takes a light touch the first go round, be careful not to push the slab edge down. If so, bring it back using a Magnesium float.
7.
First Floor Anguilla Concrete Slab Starts!
The backfill has been chemically treated and covered with a moisture barrier. We are now ready to proceed with the next step, which is to lay down the steel that will give the main floor slab its reinforced strength. Most of the time a BRC mesh is used with slabs that rest directly on the ground. This is a welded wire mesh that comes in rolls or sheets. It is laid out over the area of the slab and is embedded in the concrete, becoming an integral part of the slab. The thinking here is that if the slab is not "in the air" but is supported from the ground , it will require less allocation of steel to combat any tensile forces the slab may encounter. You typically see this type of mesh used on pool decks, sidewalks, driveways and terraces. It is also widely used on main floor slabs of structures that have no basements, like our home. Since we have opted to backfill, we could use this quick and relatively inexpensive method for our application as well. We decided against it though. Here's why...
und / Se wa ge) Lea kin g hori zon tal exp ansi on join ts Bat hro om s/ Toi lets / pan try / Kit che n/ AH U Ro of slab s, Ter rac es & pod ium s in buil din gs Salt Co nta min ate d Sub stra tes Risi ng Da mp
Even though the slab will rest directly on well compacted backfill, there is still a chance that there will be more settling with time, creating a lack of support from the ground. The chances of this happening vary with the type of backfill used. The "edge areas" of the slab (on and near the foundation walls) will not be affected, but areas further away may experience tensile stresses through possible sagging of the slab. This is a common reason for cracks, which can ultimately be seen on your nice tile floor. In many areas of the house, the distance between foundation walls are over 20 feet. These are sizable spans. Also, the areas of the slab over the cisterns require an engineered slab. And finally, Anguilla is, like most of the Caribbean, in a potential earthquake zone. All things taken into consideration, we decided to "over-engineer" and build one, homogeneous concrete slab. This will yield a first floor that is able to withstand just about any stressor. Yes, it will be a few thousand dollars more expensive. But I consider that to be a cheap, one-time insurance premium for piece of mind. We would all be kicking ourselves if we saw cracks developing after we laid down high-end ceramic and natural stone. And so, we decided to lay down a 1/2 inch diameter rebar grid system at 8 inches-on-enter throughout the complete main slab area, as shown here...
s Sur fac e Cra cks Lea kin g Str uct ural cra cks Aci d tan ks Am mo nia tan k rest ora tio n & con cre te rep air
Share Bathrooms are the major wet area in the house and it is important that the bathroom is correctly waterproofed in order to reduce the risk of structural damage occurring as a result of dampness, water leaks, or condensation.
Requirements for Waterproofing Bathrooms
The Building Code of Australia and the Australia Standard (AS 3740-1994) outline the minimum requirements for the waterproofing in residential bathrooms. These requirements include: • • • •
•
waterproofing the full floor within the shower recess at least 100mm over the hob or step down onto the bathroom floor should be waterproofed at least 150mm up the walls inside the shower walls needs to be waterproofed the vertical angle between any two walls in the shower needs to be waterproofed up to at least 1800mm high the entire bathroom floor needs to be waterproofed if it is made from timber, plywood or particleboard, or if it is above the ground floor of the house
However, to provide the best insurance against water damage, it is a good idea to go beyond these minimum requirements and ensure that all of the walls within the shower recess are waterproofed as well as the entire bathroom floor. Be aware also that some councils will require that waterproofing be done by licensed waterproofing applicators so you should check with your local council before any waterproofing work is undertaken.
The Process of Waterproofing
It is vitally important that all the surfaces within the bathroom are correctly prepared and primed. Especially of importance are any joins between the wall and floor, between the walls themselves, and around any drains in the floor. Ensure that the surfaces are smooth and free of any loose particles, which may affect the integrity of the waterproofing membrane. A polyester reinforcement mat should be fit into all the internal corners of the shower recess, such as the junctions between the wall and floor, the hob and the floor, and the corner formed by two walls meeting. The waterproofing membrane will then be applied to all surfaces. Once the first coat has been applied, an hour or two will be required before the second coat can be applied. The second coat should be applied in a different direction to the first – for example, if the first coat was put on vertically, the second should be horizontal. Do not use the bathroom until the waterproofing has had a chance to fully cure – this can be as long as five days, depending on your climate.
2.
Waterproofing Bathrooms
Waterproofing "How To" Sheets - Waterproofing BathroomsDownload this file
Old floors and cement sheeting may require a vapour barrier preparation
Prior to waterproofing the bathroom, some floors may require a vapour barrier to be installed. The vapour barrier to stop moisture from below lifting the waterproofing membrane. Two part water based epoxy products are ideal for this purpose.
Materials for the job
• • •
Poly urethane for corking Poly cloth reinforcing fabric Fibreflex waterproofing membrane
Cut in joints
• •
Cork joints with poly urethane apply reinforcing fabric
1. Apply Fibreflex to surface and lay Polycloth into the corners, smoothed into the wet surface.
2. Apply a coat of Fibreflex over the surface of the Polycloth ensuring the coaring penetrates the fibres of the Polycloth.
3. Repeat the process for the vertical corners.
4. Apply a second coat of Fibreflex to the entire area.
Membrane covering walls and floor
Coat the entire shower area. Two coats over walls and floor.
Reference diagrams from the standard
AS3740 - waterproofing of wet area within residential buildings.
www.conpro.com.au/advice/waterproofing-bathrooms/
3.
Bathroom waterproofing- A detail of the bath / wall layout.
I believe that the most important thing I did in the whole renovatin was the bathroom waterproofing job, to do it well and to get it inspected and approved before I covered it up with ceramic tiles.
Partly of course I did it because I was going to sell the house when my small renovation project was complete, and so I needed that waterproofing certificate along with all the other paperwork to reassure prospective purchasers. The main reason though is that I have seen some terrible disasters when the old style waterproofing measures break down. Water running under walls and rotting out carpets in adjacent rooms. Water persistently ruining ceilings below.
Bathroom Waterproofing, Wet Area Walls and floor.
The BCA requires that all new wet areas, that is kitchen splash back, laundry, WC and bathrooms be waterproofed with an approved flexible membrane system, prior to the fixing of ceramic tiles. On new houses inspections are required before proceeding with the ceramic tiling. Otherwise excellent bathroom work has in the past failed the test of time, due to building movement. Different rates of movement between the bathroom floors and walls. Sometimes the internal walls are a different construction to the external bathroom walls. There are many different kits for doing the job. I got my waterproofing and tiles from a shop that imports quality tiles from Italy and Europe, and I went with the Mapei (Italian manufacturer) system, for both the bathroom waterproofing and the tile adhesive. I prefer to get materials like this from a specialist shop, rather than a general hardware store. A few words of informed advice from someone who has "been there and done that", can make all the difference. Here is a quote from Mapei tech sheet "Mapegum WPS is a ready-to-use, solvent-free, single component, grey-coloured paste with a base of synthetic resins in water dispersion. Mapegum WPS has a thixotropic consistency which makes it easy to apply on horizontal, sloping and vertical surfaces. After rapid evaporation of the water content, Mapegum WPS forms a flexible membrane which is not sticky and which is strong enough to withstand light pedestrian traffic. It also forms an excellent surface which bonds perfectly to adhesives used for laying ceramics" The real break though with these type of products is indicated by the word "flexibility".
Bathroom waterproofing- Detail of the floor-wall joint.
On our first house (timber frame) I fixed the ceramic tiles in the bathroom and WC onto two layers of 6mm flat cement wall sheets. After about 3 years a crack appeared in each tiled wall, straight on the joint line of the cement sheets, which happened to be right in the middle of a tile. What a bummer! The tiles were set solid, but the expansion, contraction and other movements in the timber frame inevitably caused something to give. The movement was probably very small, but white shiny ceramic tiles being what they are, the cracks stuck out like dogs balls. The point I am making is that if I could have used one of the modern flexible bathroom waterproofing compounds that are available today, the cracking of those tiles would not have happened. The bathroom would still be acceptable.
Bathroom waterproofing - Detail at the front of the bath.
So, even if you don't have to comply with any bathroom waterproofing regulations, I highly recommend you waterproof your bathroom before fixing the ceramic tiles. Don't build it good enough for the next five years, until you sell the house! Build it to last. Waterproofing is cheap and easy to do. If you can use a paint roller and a brush you can do it. It is definitely messy, but the good thing is that it is water clean up. The BCA is quite complex in the minimum areas to be waterproofed, with variations where there are showers screens or not, whether the floor is concrete or some other construction etc. etc. In my case the minimum area to waterproof would have been 1500 radius from the floor waste with turn ups of 150 at the included walls and all around the bath. All around the bath/shower area to a min. height of 1800. If no shower screen is fitted the min. width should be 1500 from shower head. I did the whole floor and and almost all the walls to a height of 2000. (I purposely left the bit behind the cupboard, in case I ran out of material, and sure enough I had a small patch that didn't get covered).
I don't see any point in trying to save the odd square metre here or there as the regs are quite complex so it is always better to do extra rather than get a knock back and have to do extra, along with the delay and extra inspection fee. My tile height was 2100 (top of door frame). If I had been cheap and only done the exact area that the code requires I might have saved $30. Here's how I did it:• • • Removed all loose surface material to the area being done. Broom and wipe down with wet sponge. Primed the whole area with Mapei primer. (roller and brush). Which is a watery milky looking liquid that runs like hell. Soaks in and dries clear. Applied the first coat of the compound, which is half way between thick paint and butter in consistency. As they say in the blurb, it is thixotropic. I again used a long nap roller and paintbrush. Top gun tilers use trowels, faster and easier to clean. The coat shouldn't be too thick though. 1mm thick is the recommended thickness. The following morning I set in the reinforcing strips of fiberglass tape over all the corner joints, walls to walls and walls to floor. The tape looks for all the world like a paper kitchen towel roll, but it is a very strong fiberglass material. The roll is 150 (6") wide. I worked on one corner at a time, painting the area with compound, laying in the tape, dabbing it into position with the brush. This job is fairly messy, I use rubber gloves. The material does'nt go off very quickly, so you have a good amount of time to pull any twisted or wrinkled pieces off and to start again. When I was happy that all the corners were taped up OK I did a final roller and brush coat over all the lot again. That was it finished, two full coats everywhere and extra at the corners bedding in the fiberglass tape,
• • • • •
• •
Bathroom waterproofing
It's a poor photo again, a wider angle would have been nice. Here is it ready for the inspection. Note the fan in the window, it is a cheap floor fan that I tied temporarily in place to suck out dust.
www.builderbill-diy-help.com/bathroom-waterproofing.html
4.
FIBREGLASS WATERPROOFING Our long expertise in working with fibreglass allows us to apply our knowledge and experience in offering a new range of products. Waterproofing is essential in modern plasterboarding (stud wall) construction techniques. It can also be used for flat roofs and balconies to prevent ingress of water. Suitable for wetrooms, showers, bathrooms and many other applications, both inside and out. We have recently completed remedial fibreglass waterproofing for a number of hotel room bathrooms where potential water ingress would be of major concern and mean substantial loss of revenue for the operators. We also offer a full fibreglass floor covering service for the domestic and commercial markets.
5.
How to waterproof bathroom: For bathrooms with concrete floors, waterproof bathroom with liquid waterproofing membrane Urethane/Acrylic system: DAY 1 (After checking that drains are connected and set flush) Scrape, Sweep, Gerni (if walls rendered) or vacuum
DAY 2
(Or when dry) Seal shower corners to 2m, perimeters up 150 and around drains and pipes with Multiseal. Caulk floor perimeters and up 150, with fine bead in shower corners, also around drains and pipes. Brush Multithane up 150 around walls and shower areas. Multiseal the rest of the floor (provided day 3 is the next day). When dry, brush Multithane up 150 around walls and the shower areas (second coat), and then roll the main coat at 1.5li/sqm. (Must follow day 2 in summer; you will most likely have to wait till the next day in winter, or longer if still tacky) After priming with Duroprime ARW, apply first coat of acrylic to shower walls. Cut and bed 20 x 25 aluminium angle with PU25 urethane sealant and seal at sides to the doorway and to isolate the shower floor. (Alternatively, fix angle at the beginning of Day 2, bedding with PU25). Second coat of ACS to shower walls. Provided fully cured and no tackiness, (cure time dependant on temperature and humidity), plug drains and fill with water to 50mm. (After checking OK) Remove plugs. Start tiling floor. Provided acrylic is quite dry, start tiling walls. Solvent based urethane chemically cures to rubber. Water based acrylic dries out. Any heater will accelerate the drying of the acrylic but the urethane needs hot air blown over wet hessian or cloth to humidify, as well as warm, in order to speed up the cure. If the membrane is firm but still tacky, throw dry sand and lay plastic so you can then walk on it. Instead of solvent based urethane, you can use water based membranes, eg. SBR latex such as Durabit EF or urethane modified acrylic such as Duromastic P15, for the floor and perimeters and also for the shower walls, starting with the latter but otherwise as above. After the mortar bed has dried, it is good practice to caulk around the perimeter with Wrimco PU25 sealant and apply ARW followed by 2 coats of ACS to the mortar bed, particularly in the shower area. This prevents discolouration of porous tiles such as travertine, marble and efflorescence at the joints.
DAY 3
DAY 4
DAY 5
DAYS 6-7 NB.
ALTERNATE SYSTEM
link : Wrimco approved licensed applicators
6.
aterproofing of Bathrooms / Toilets / Pantry / Kitchen / AHU
METHODOLOGY STATEMENT Surface Preparation:
Top of Form
Quick links to products
Select Product
Bottom of Form
Tot al Surfaces to be waterproofed must be sound, clean, free of dust, paint, curing agents, loose plaster debris etc. Honeycombs should be opened up to ensure uninterrupted and even coating of waterproofing application.Wa An ter existing waterproofing membrane/ coating to be removed completely. All final cleaning will be carried out pro with pressurized water. Apart from cleaning this will ensure that all pores, capillaries, pores and voids etcofi will be filed with water which is essential prior to treatment with Koster’s cement based crystalline waterproofing ng systems. Sol
All static cracks wider than 1 mm. in the substrate must be opened up to 12 mm X 12 mm. and treated with a on mix of cement/sand mix with Koster S B Bonding emulsion and water at least 24 hours to application. s Fillets: Similarly at all the junctions of the parapet wall and the slab, the fillets must be built up with a mix of cement/sand/quartz sand mix with Koster S B Bonding emulsion and water at least 24 hours prior to the application.
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Bas em ent (po Down take / Pipe Insertions: Pipe inserts must be installed prior to the application of the Koster NB\Koster NB Elastic waterproofing siti system. At the opening in the slab around the pipe the substrate should be similarly opened up by cutting ve) back around the pipes to give sufficient depth and cleaned thoroughly. This must be then built up with a mix ofBas cement/sand mix with Koster S B Bonding emulsion and water at least 24 hours prior to application. . em ent Construction Joints: (ne Finally dampen all the surface areas thoroughly with clean water, as this is necessary prior to the application gati of the Koster NB system. The dampness in the substrate will ensure that the chemical reaction between the ve) Koster NB system and the chemicals in the concrete substrate takes place completely. However the Act application of the Koster NB system should not be made over standing or running water. ive MIXING AND APPLICATION: lea Materials: ks Koster NB cement based crystalline based waterproofing system in Koster NB Elastic cement based crystalline based waterproofing system bas SB Bonding Emulsion liquid em Water ent/ Brushes ret aini Mixing: ng To one bag of Koster NB I (25 kg), add 7 - 8 liters of water premixed with 10 % SB Bonding Emulsion. Mix wal thoroughly to a slurry consistency. The system is now ready for application. l The powder and the liquid components of the Koster NB Elastic system must be mixed together. Mix Lea thoroughly to a slurry consistency. The system is now ready for application. kin Application: g The Koster NB system is brush applied, on to the already damped surface. The brush on is done in 2 coats. . cab The coverage is 0.60 kg per sq. meter per coat and each coat is done perpendicular to each other. After the 1st le coat there should be a gap of 12 – 24 hours before the 2nd coat is applied. Prior to the 2nd coat application the slee 1st coat surface should be dampened thoroughly to ensure that the chemical reaction is complete. No water ves curing is required. The finished surface should be left exposed for 48 hours for positive side treatment and 4 Wa days for negative side after which further build up works can be carried out. tert For treatment on Bathrooms it is recommended that the treatment extend upto the shower spout level in the ank shower areas and extend 1.00 mt from the base in the other areas. This will ensure that all the weak points are s covered completely and the surface is completely watertight. The vertical termination height for the kitchen (O and AHU’s will be finalized as per site requirements. ver hea d/ Un der
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slab construction
Concrete Slab-Concrete Slab Construction Video
Concrete Slab Construction Concrete Slabs DVD Concrete Slab Video. Water down the grade a day before pouring concrete and prior to pouring concrete slab, preventing water from being absorbed from the concrete mixture. Have a designated area for the Ready-mix truck to wash out, or wheelbarrow. Delivery drivers will put there own shoots on and discharge concrete. Let the driver know what slump you want before pouring concrete slab. Most drivers should be able to accommodate the desired slump(Moisture content). (6 inch slump min. 7 inch slump max. suggested) Time is a factor, don't waist any time pouring out, Rodded off and Tamped. Note; (The longer it takes the faster the concrete slab will set.) Have enough help with you leveling the concrete as your pouring the slab. Pour 1/3 of the concrete slab, Stop, Rod off. Then repeat this process until done. Do not over pour! Start Tamping. While Tamping, your helpers can use a Magnesium float to level the edges to existing concrete slab and forms. After Tamping, your concrete slab or driveway should Bleed. (Bullfloat after Bleeding minimizes.) Not Bleeding, Bullfloat immediately . Starting from where you started the pour, Bullfloat the concrete slab in two different directions, if possible, to assure a level surface. Then, edge perimeters of the drive with a Walking Edger. Edging, takes a light touch the first go round, be careful not to push the slab edge down. If so, bring it back using a Magnesium float.
7.
First Floor Anguilla Concrete Slab Starts!
The backfill has been chemically treated and covered with a moisture barrier. We are now ready to proceed with the next step, which is to lay down the steel that will give the main floor slab its reinforced strength. Most of the time a BRC mesh is used with slabs that rest directly on the ground. This is a welded wire mesh that comes in rolls or sheets. It is laid out over the area of the slab and is embedded in the concrete, becoming an integral part of the slab. The thinking here is that if the slab is not "in the air" but is supported from the ground , it will require less allocation of steel to combat any tensile forces the slab may encounter. You typically see this type of mesh used on pool decks, sidewalks, driveways and terraces. It is also widely used on main floor slabs of structures that have no basements, like our home. Since we have opted to backfill, we could use this quick and relatively inexpensive method for our application as well. We decided against it though. Here's why...
und / Se wa ge) Lea kin g hori zon tal exp ansi on join ts Bat hro om s/ Toi lets / pan try / Kit che n/ AH U Ro of slab s, Ter rac es & pod ium s in buil din gs Salt Co nta min ate d Sub stra tes Risi ng Da mp
Even though the slab will rest directly on well compacted backfill, there is still a chance that there will be more settling with time, creating a lack of support from the ground. The chances of this happening vary with the type of backfill used. The "edge areas" of the slab (on and near the foundation walls) will not be affected, but areas further away may experience tensile stresses through possible sagging of the slab. This is a common reason for cracks, which can ultimately be seen on your nice tile floor. In many areas of the house, the distance between foundation walls are over 20 feet. These are sizable spans. Also, the areas of the slab over the cisterns require an engineered slab. And finally, Anguilla is, like most of the Caribbean, in a potential earthquake zone. All things taken into consideration, we decided to "over-engineer" and build one, homogeneous concrete slab. This will yield a first floor that is able to withstand just about any stressor. Yes, it will be a few thousand dollars more expensive. But I consider that to be a cheap, one-time insurance premium for piece of mind. We would all be kicking ourselves if we saw cracks developing after we laid down high-end ceramic and natural stone. And so, we decided to lay down a 1/2 inch diameter rebar grid system at 8 inches-on-enter throughout the complete main slab area, as shown here...
s Sur fac e Cra cks Lea kin g Str uct ural cra cks Aci d tan ks Am mo nia tan k rest ora tio n & con cre te rep air
